14C18N Sadvik steel disccusion

Joined
Jun 10, 2010
Messages
8
Recently I got a Kershaw Needs Work where the blade was made of 14C28N steel, I was wondering what would be the most considered uses for this knife, and what tasks might be too strenuous, how would the best way of caring for it would be.

Here are the specs/ Link to kershaw website

http://www.kershawknives.com/productdetails.php?id=385&brand=kershaw

Steel: Sandvik 14C28N stainless steel
Handle: Polyimide
Blade Length: 3 in. (7.5 cm)
Closed Length: 4 1/8 in. (10.5 cm)
Overall Length: N/A
Weight: 3.5 oz.
 
I also think 14C28N takes a wicked sharp edge with little work and using just about any sharpening medium. It's a real razor-blade steel. My Kershaw 14C28N blade measured 59HRC.

Outstanding at tasks requiring push-cutting. Great for fine cuts. It's reasonably corrosion resistant, though I might not use it in a salt marsh.

It has no carbides, so don't look for it to have abrasion resistance.
 
I also bought a "Needs Work". Terrific little knife, lots of value in that price tag.

As far as the knife itself goes though, I've been kind of worried about the tip snapping. It is very, very thin so I haven't been sure if it will snap off if used a little too forcefully.

Otherwise, as far as 14C28N goes, I've observed pretty much the same things about sharpening it. As far as edge retention goes though, wear resistance I haven't quite had enough experience with it to say, but edge holding and impact resistance are surprisingly good. I dropped mine on the corner of my Norton by accident, and the deformation is so small I cannot even see it with 30X magnification.

I carried mine for about two weeks before I inevitably started carrying my regular EDC again, but it's a really nice knife. The only reason I don't like to carry the Needs Work is because it's switch-blade like assisted opening. Don't want to get in any trouble. It's great for around the house stuff though, and the tip is actually very precise and you can do a lot of delicate work with it.
 
I only have two knives in this steel, a Leek and a Skyline, but I've used knives in 13c26 extensively. I'm a fan of both, and they're generally very similar steels. They both take extremely fine edges, and they seem to hold their edge for quite a while (although for some reason 13c26 seems to hold its edge longer than 14c28...it might just be some other factor like the edge angle that makes the difference, though...). They're both really easy to put a decent edge on, as well. Makes a good user steel :thumbup:.
 
fantastic steel, the needs work is still one of my EDC's and i never leave home without it
 
My Sandvik knives are all scandinavian fixed blades (Moras and Helles). It is a very good steel. It doesn't stand up to the "super steels" in the estimation of some people but I really like it a lot. Takes a scary sharp edge with little work. I certainly understand the allure of the "super steels" and they are very interesting from many standpoints (I have a couple) but there'll always be room for "normal" steels like Sandvik, 420HC, 1095, etc.
 
Sandvik steels are very clean steels that will take a wicked sharp edge, and with the right heat treat/RC (which they normally have) they will perform with many of the "in" steels or even surpass them. Plus you can sharpen it with about any medium. I love Sandvik steel.
 
The only reason I don't like to carry the Needs Work is because it's switch-blade like assisted opening. Don't want to get in any trouble. It's great for around the house stuff though, and the tip is actually very precise and you can do a lot of delicate work with it.

If you know what you're doing, you can take the knife apart and remove the torsion bar, like I did. Since the liner lock has a ball detent, the knife and will function just fine without the AO (Assisted Open). I've found, if your flipper technique is decent, you can open the knife with absolutely no wrist motion even without the AO. I actually like mine (the G-10 version) much better with the AO gone.;)
 
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