14C28N Random Leek Question

[Derek24]

Overall I'm impressed with the fit and finish, smooth AO, and lock up. I really like the look of the stonewashed blade, very razor sharp of course.

My question is about the frame lock. It's so stiff that I have to hold the handle in my right hand and disengage it with my left thumb...I sliced my thumb nicely the first time I tried it! Is there a break in period for the frame lock? I'm only comparing this to my other frame lock - Leek Dam, which is easy to close one-handed.

Thanks, all! :thumbup:

 

[SladeGT40]

depends. i have to do the same on mine if it engages and goes all the way over when locked. otherwise its smooth. how's the horizontal bladeplay in yours? i have a subtle hint of one, not enough to cause concern but if i wanna correct it i have a feeling my speedsafe action wont be as smooth or as fast. but ive already got the leek bug and its only my first one.

 

[Derek24]

No blade play at all. I dunno maybe it's because the frame lock is really stiff. If there's a very slight tolerance issue it'll probably just break in. But then, it engages closer to the other side than my DAM Leek so it's past being broken in.

 

[jujigatame]

It's a bit hard to say for sure from the angle of the picture but the amount of engagement between the face of the lockbar and the tang seems within normal bounds. When you say the lock is stiff is it hard to get it to the point of disengaging from the tang and easy from there on, or is it okay to disengage and just really hard to move the distance needed to clear the tang. If it's the former I'd think you might just have a sticky lock. If it's the latter, well, maybe the amount of spring or the relief cut is off somehow and it should go back to Kershaw for a checkup.

 

[Derek24]

It's a bit hard to say for sure from the angle of the picture but the amount of engagement between the face of the lockbar and the tang seems within normal bounds. When you say the lock is stiff is it hard to get it to the point of disengaging from the tang and easy from there on, or is it okay to disengage and just really hard to move the distance needed to clear the tang. If it's the former I'd think you might just have a sticky lock. If it's the latter, well, maybe the amount of spring or the relief cut is off somehow and it should go back to Kershaw for a checkup.

I would say it's the former. After several tries i was able to close it one-handed but really had to muscle it to the point of disengaging. It was easy from there on, so it just needs some breaking in. Thanks!

 

[JTR357]

I had the same problem with my Spyderco Volpe.It was really hard to close at first,but eventually got easier.It probably just needs a little "breaking in" is all.

 

[jonnymac44]

I had the same problem with my Spyderco Volpe.It was really hard to close at first,but eventually got easier.It probably just needs a little "breaking in" is all.

Agreed, especially with the Volpe.

The nature of a framelock lends itself to be stiff, especially at first. Give it a bit of use, and everything should be just fine.

Nice knife and pics:thumbup:

Jon

 

[jujigatame]

I would say it's the former. After several tries i was able to close it one-handed but really had to muscle it to the point of disengaging. It was easy from there on, so it just needs some breaking in. Thanks!

In that case you could try this - take a regular #2 pencil and color in, so to speak, the part of the tang where the lockbar engages. The graphite may help it stick less. Along with regular cycling to break it in you should be sorted soon enough.

 

[J_Curd]

If you have some experience or are confident enough in your mechanical skills to take it apart, i would use some 800 grit on the tang to smooth any friction points. Your lock-up ratio looks spot on. Remember. When disassembling an AO, open the blade first, and use masking tape to cover the edge. Also, make sure you have the proper tools (Torx set).

Joe