14c28n Steel

M

matt_b89

Joined
Dec 30, 2012
Messages
88
Got this steel in a Kershaw black leek and I'm really enjoying it. I'm not sure if it's the fact that I finally learned how to sharpen my knives or not, but this steel seems to take a very good edge. I had been using my lansky and not getting sharp edges..just useable. and then my grandfather watched me use it(awesome freehand sharpener) and said that I was sharpening WAY too much. He recommended I use a sharpie on the edge and just use each grade stone until it was gone and then put another sharpie line on...well I finally got hair popping edges! I'm pumped. Anyways...I was wondering what would this steel be compared to? I believe it's the best steel that Kershaw uses...at least on their value folders. also some tips how to finish the knife would be nice...I'm using a my leather work boot and strop and then run it across the grippy rubber once or twice and it seems to give it a very sharp durable edge, but wasn't sure if I needed the rubber step or not.
 
That seems to be good sharpening tip! Especially for someone like myself who almost certainly tries to oversharpen everything. I actually just ordered a kershaw made with the sanik 14c28n that should arrive today. I did a little research and apparently it functions pretty similarly to Aus8, but can supposedly take one of the sharpest edge around. I'm glad to see someone is having good luck with it- I was hesitant to buy a steel I didn't know much about. I think I also read, though don't quote me, that the steel was originally designed to make razors. If that is true, that may explain its ability to take such a fine edge.
 
it definitely takes a great edge and is easily sharpened seeing as I can't sharpen for anything...but the sharpie tip actually lets you see how much you're taking off there...just make sure it dries well so its not rubbing off. You'd be surprised at how mmuch metal actually comes off from a fine stone. The less strokes the better apparently because the angle is less obtuse. The more you oversharpen.....the wider the angle.
 
and honestly with the sharpie tip I could probably learn to free hand sharpen as well.....just make sure whatever kit you're using you go at the highest angle first and work your way down until the all the sharpie is removed....because sometimes you'll find like I did the angle i was using wasn't matching the factory edge and wasn't even meeting the tip!
 
love my Leek w/ 14c28n steel, as it is very fine grained and can take a highly polished edge -- I usually stop at my Naniwa SS 5K, and find it is the perfect finishing point for refinement but with a hint of bite.

No need to sharpen more than you have to...just do it with light to medium pressure until you have a burr formed the entire length of the edge, then flip to the other side until you get the same(or you can rotate between sides but stopping to feel for a burr in between)...once you get to this point, then you want to minimize the burr by continually switching sides and lightening up your finger pressure as you go. You can deburr between each stone (lightly cut into some cork/rock hard felt/soft wood/etc), or when you get more proficient, you can just do it on your final stone.

I've been freehanding for a few years, and I find it is the most flexible of all systems and has warranted the best results for myself.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top