154cm angle suggestions for EDC

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Shawn7656

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Feb 15, 2012
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370
I finally bought my Griptilian (551), but now I have the problem of sharpening a knife that is, to me, on the expensive side. I've never sharpened 154cm as the only other knife I own with it I've just stropped and rarely use (BM 42) so I don't really know how it acts.

As an EDC knife, my Grip will mostly be put through minimal tasks like cutting paper, zip-ties occasionally, string, packages whenever needed, etc. Light stuff mostly, though I will use it for heavy stuff occasionally - this is why I decided to go with a tough knife. So, what's a good rough angle to make the edge when it comes to sharpening? I'm pretty sure I'll be lowering it from factory, though I'm not for sure as I don't have it yet. I do things freehand and I'm scared of messing it up; I've reprofiled about 4 knives and I'm confident enough to know I'll get it very sharp by the end, but I want to make sure I keep both sides even.

To conclude, I'd like to know a good EDC angle that will excel at light tasks but still be up to heavy if need be. I'd also like some tips on reprofiling, as I really don't wanna hurt my new knife!

Thanks in advance guys
 
In the last month, I regrinded most of my EDCs to primary edge 15-25deg inclusive, on/off micro-convex-bevel 30-50deg inclusive. I hate bevel shoulder, so I blend/convex prim edge to blade. E.g. my GB cpm-m4 sports ~16deg prim, 30deg micro-convex-bevel, yes part of the shoulder (above the hollow grind) got grinded away, finish on 0.1u poly strop => awesome slicer but still tough enough for part-time abuse. I don't have 154cm but it should be similar to D2 - mine edge is about 24/30, it will chips like crazy without the micro-bevel (lol - after hacked thru a chicken breastbone).

My EDC usage %~ 30 cut fruits - yum mangoes & apples, 30 other light tasks, 20 garden, 10 kitchen (hard squashs, chickens, ribs - jknives for soft stuff), 10 for repeat-reprofiling-until-the-blade-look-like-amputee.
 
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7.5º each side? :eek: That's reaaaalllyyy low haha. Whatever works though. I was thinking more around 36-40 inclusive, but I guess I'm asking because I don't know :unconscious:
 
Well, for 154cm - I was suggested 12deg per side, 15deg micro. On other hand, for cpm154 I would take it lower. Maybe I want my folder to be a hippy/pockety-laser :cool:
 
Lol I know, but I mean your EDCs are 15 inclusive, that's crazy dude haha.

12 sounds a bit easier to do. I'll have to decide if I want to take that much metal off right away though haha (I'm assuming factory is closer to like 60 inclusive)
 
I think it's actually closer to 35-45 inclusive on the grips from factory. But I could be wrong. That's just my bad eyes.
 
Best advice I can give is take it as low as possible until you experience edge failure through chipping and rolling that occurs easily, that means you have pushed the edge to its limits and just increase the angle a bit after that and it should be fine.
 
Thanks for the advice guys! Does anyone have some good tips on keeping both sides of the blade even when reprofiling??

It shipped out today.. I'm so anxious :p
I have too many things coming in the mail... My mind is going to explode haha
 
I do crazy cutting like network cables and CAT 3 power cable so use 30 per side with 35 deg microbevel.

I use a landsky clamp when sharpening or re profiling. To be un-biased the spyderco sharpmaker is the best imo
 
Shawn7656 said:
Lol I know, but I mean your EDCs are 15 inclusive, that's crazy dude haha.

12 sounds a bit easier to do. I'll have to decide if I want to take that much metal off right away though haha (I'm assuming factory is closer to like 60 inclusive)
Click to expand...

At 7-8 degrees per side you would be regrinding most blade grinds and unless the 154cm or CPM154 was at 60+Rc (same steel) it would not handle that edge angle.

Just sayin.
 
That sounds more like where I'll be at Djjonny.

That's what I was thinking Knifenut. I've brought blades down to like 35º inclusive and they have some pretty big bevels already (like 3-5mm IIRC). At half that I'd assume my knife would pretty much be ground up to the shoulder :eek:. I wouldn't do that to a knife I paid more than $10 for lol. But, I guess I don't really have a need for it (or the power tools to make it easy enough to accomplish lol) like some others may.

EDIT: What angle would you think is best for 154cm Knifenut?
 
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IMO most general purpose blades are too thick. I grind them thin, then add micro(up to a 1mm) cutting bevel at 30 to 50 degrees inclusive to deal with chips. Many powered steels can't practically take 25deg inclusive without losing the bite & get chippy, so I micro-bevel them. e.g. mid 30 deg incl micro-bevel my s30v blade. I agreed with knifenut - sub 60RC steel can't handle ffg thin grind. :confused:Maybe I shouldn't reprofile a folder into a folding kitchen blade.

Per post #4, look like there is a misintepretation. I recommended 12/15 perside (24/30 inclusive). Well yeah, 15 incl would be too thin for D2/154cm. I am sure cpm-m4 or zdp can take that acute angle but chop/lateral-force activities could fracture the edge (or big chips).
 
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With most production knives 18-20 per side seems to be the happy medium. Any less and you chance deformation, any greater any you fight geometry to make a cut.
 
Well that's about where I sharpen all my knives to unless I leave it at factory, so I'll be good I think :).

Btw, thanks for all the vids you've put up Knifenut, I've learned a lot from you
 
Bluntcut,

I sharpen similar except I don't micro I just continue the convex to the edge.
 
Knifenut - In the last year or so, I convex my edge too, so much nicer not having multiple shoulders/facets on your blade. Yep, I learned that (sum-of-all-parts) from reading your posts and posts from KF+KKF <= my sincere gratitude. Convexing an edge can be quite complicated but benefits far exceed the freehand learning curve (cost too). Convex==no facets==separating dynamic (ok, it doesn't sounds as cool as fluid-dynamic).
 
Good choice on the 551. The 550 is my EDC. I put a 25 degree edge on it with two eze lap diamond stones and ceramic sticks. It's been a workhorse. Everything from rope to tomatoes.
 
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