17 year old fixed blade found in closet

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Jun 9, 2014
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Found this German made Linder knife in my closet today. This was the first knife that I ever bought when I was 13 years old. It was completely covered in rust and the brass was green. I've taken off most of the rust with steel wool but it looks like I might have to take some sandpaper to it, any suggestions? The stag rotates a little around the tang, I cant remember if this was an issue with the knife originally or it has developed over the years.
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That's going to look nice :thumbup:
 
Thanks for the suggestion! I wasnt familiar with the product but it seems after looking into it is good for polishing. some of the rust left on the knife you can feel when you run your finger over the knife, I think I may need to sand this off.
 
I'd be wary about going too hard at first. Some mineral oil or WD40 may loosen some of the rust, as will a combination of camellia oil, a green pad, and elbow grease. Flitz is also a good product. Hopefully you can keep any sanding to a minimum. From the pics, it really doesn't look that bad :thumbup:
 
I'd be wary about going too hard at first. Some mineral oil or WD40 may loosen some of the rust, as will a combination of camellia oil, a green pad, and elbow grease. Flitz is also a good product. Hopefully you can keep any sanding to a minimum. From the pics, it really doesn't look that bad :thumbup:

The first thing i did was a kitchen scrub pad with 3-1 oil and that took most of it off. It seems that the problem now is that it has corroded INTO the blade making little canyons that are not superficial. It seems I may have to live with these since I would need to take off a massive amount of material to remove them.
 
Stag rotates

There is a brass nut in the pommel. Take two small screwdrivers, put them in the to slots in the brass nut. Tighten the nut by grasping both screwdrivers and turning. Be sure the stag is in the right orientation. A spanner wrench is what a cutler would use instead of the screwdrivers and pliers.
 
Nice old knife. As for handle- twirling, it will. There's a round hole through the handle and a flattish tang. I always fill such a handle with epoxy putty or epoxy and shims.
 
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RE the loose handle. I took a wide blade standard screw driver and ground the middle of the blade away with a diamong dremel bit until it fit over the brass "screw".
I does no damage to the thread and fits all the knives I've used it on.

Best regards

Robin
 
I have owned literally hundreds of Solingen "Bowie" knives - that often were partnered with smaller ones such as this, usually people undo the Pommel nut and take the handle off and incorrectly put back the Leather and Composite + Brass Spacers - now quite often these were ever so slightly different in size as to taper with the shape of the handle - so people would .... 1, Replace the spacers in a different order or 2, leave a spacer or two out.

I modified a small pair of pliers to fit exactly the Brass Pommel nut - as the other guys have said you do have to be careful not to burr the nut.
I used these pliers because you could hold the two handles of the pliers and use good assertive pressure to undo/ tighten the Pommel Nut whilst the handle was carefully packed while Viced.

Undo the handle again, clean up the thread - check carefully the spacers are in exact order for front and back order of colour & Brass, use Lock tight on the Brass Pommel nut again and tighten as hard as possible-while tightening it is MOST important to ensure all the packers/spacers stay in line - you may need a screwdriver handle to tap these carefully into place if they become slightly out of alinement ( before any REAL tension is put to the Brass nut ).

Your knife has had a hiding -the Aluminium Pommel has literally been bashed about - if done carefully you can re-shape this to the near exact shape as before - mind you you cannot take too much off the edge where it meets the packers as from factory these were perfectly matched in size for fit and finish - if not? try re-arranging the packers- (as long as you keep the order the same with front and back ) - sometimes only one packer will match the size of the pommel.
To me it looks as though there are a couple of packers missing - you can always sand the packers perfectly smooth if they are a little uneven once the knife is tight once and for all.

If you find - and you possibly will that the Tang will be slightly exposed and protrudes through the Brass Pommel nut - you can use a very fine file and finished with wet and dry Paper and no one would EVER tell that you have done this - if done correctly.

Stag Handles:
The Solingen Stag was very nice what they use, they came in two versions of Handles..... 1, two slabs that were 4 Brass pinned and used the same spacer / Packer system, and as you have the single piece rounder handle drilled through the centre.

I personally would not fill the centre of the Stag handle with Cutlers Cement - simply because if you do a good job of what I described above there is simply no need to.

The bigger percentage of the Solingen Blades were Stainless, and the Carbon Bladed ones were very hard to get in tidy state - I personally would NOT do anything more but finish you blade in 400 then 600 wet and dry and keep it good with Mineral Oil - (baby oil ).

Here is a nice trio of one of Solingens greats Anton Wingen ( note the middle has the two-piece handle as I described above )





The smaller of this trio believe it or not is extremely rare and hard to get - in any condition ) these are the 15, 13, and 10 inch.
 
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I have owned literally hundreds of Solingen "Bowie" knives - that often were partnered with smaller ones such as this, usually people undo the Pommel nut and take the handle off and incorrectly put back the Leather and Composite + Brass Spacers - now quite often these were ever so slightly different in size as to taper with the shape of the handle - so people would .... 1, Replace the spacers in a different order or 2, leave a spacer or two out.

I modified a small pair of pliers to fit exactly the Brass Pommel nut - as the other guys have said you do have to be careful not to burr the nut.
I used these pliers because you could hold the two handles of the pliers and use good assertive pressure to undo/ tighten the Pommel Nut whilst the handle was carefully packed while Viced.

Undo the handle again, clean up the thread - check carefully the spacers are in exact order for front and back order of colour & Brass, use Lock tight on the Brass Pommel nut again and tighten as hard as possible-while tightening it is MOST important to ensure all the packers/spacers stay in line - you may need a screwdriver handle to tap these carefully into place if they become slightly out of alinement ( before any REAL tension is put to the Brass nut ).

Your knife has had a hiding -the Aluminium Pommel has literally been bashed about - if done carefully you can re-shape this to the near exact shape as before - mind you you cannot take too much off the edge where it meets the packers as from factory these were perfectly matched in size for fit and finish - if not? try re-arranging the packers- (as long as you keep the order the same with front and back ) - sometimes only one packer will match the size of the pommel.
To me it looks as though there are a couple of packers missing - you can always sand the packers perfectly smooth if they are a little uneven once the knife is tight once and for all.

If you find - and you possibly will that the Tang will be slightly exposed and protrudes through the Brass Pommel nut - you can use a very fine file and finished with wet and dry Paper and no one would EVER tell that you have done this - if done correctly.

Stag Handles:
The Solingen Stag was very nice what they use, they came in two versions of Handles..... 1, two slabs that were 4 Brass pinned and used the same spacer / Packer system, and as you have the single piece rounder handle drilled through the centre.

I personally would not fill the centre of the Stag handle with Cutlers Cement - simply because if you do a good job of what I described above there is simply no need to.

The bigger percentage of the Solingen Blades were Stainless, and the Carbon Bladed ones were very hard to get in tidy state - I personally would NOT do anything more but finish you blade in 400 then 600 wet and dry and keep it good with Mineral Oil - (baby oil ).

Here is a nice trio of one of Solingens greats Anton Wingen ( note the middle has the two-piece handle as I described above )





The smaller of this trio believe it or not is extremely rare and hard to get - in any condition ) these are the 15, 13, and 10 inch.
Thanks for all the great info!
 
German steel needs german cleaner...ballistol all day :)

(It really works well and smells nice, been around for almost a century is "green" and water soluble but doesnt allow rust!)

(All of my firearms, knives that are not in steady use and those in steady use get a coating (the stored ones get a thick coating) havent had rust in years thanks to that awesome lube/cleaner)
 
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