"18 WWII after "personal adaption" (pics)

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May 1, 2012
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92
Hi khuknuts! :)

A little while ago I acquired a "15 AK that's seen a lot of use. Of course I knew already when ordering it that I would want more khukuris ;) My thinking was to get a relatively light and portable "small" khukuri (the AK) and a somewhat larger one for heavier work/just to see how it feels. So here we go with another "look at my shiny new toy" post.

Now, the AK have proved itself extremely capable. It weighs in at 20oz, thus a light one, probably very comparable to the standard BAS. I decided on the WWII mainly because I wanted a larger/longer khukuri that was a good mix between the light and fast gelbus/chitlangs and the many heavy choppers. Seems more often than not that "18's are in the 30+ oz range. Weight reasons basically invalidated the M43, CAK and so forth. Thus, when ordering I asked for lightest "18 WWII in stock and got this one at 26,5oz. I might actually remove some material from the spine and bring it down an oz or two in weight. Still on the fence about that. Need to use it more first.

My WWII is made my Tirtha kami and came reasonably sharp with a very well-made/shaped blade. Almost impossible to discern the hammer marks. The handle is of nice wood (satisal?), but the finish wasn't that good and the edge of the pommel cap thingy was sharp. Karda/chakma seem to be hardened enough for practical use, but the karda came with a bent tip (curiously enough the same was the case with the AKs karda). Cleaned and sanded down all the handles (minor reshape on the karda just for the fun of it, do not really ad anything) and have been oiling them over the last few days with some Ikea wood oil that I use on furniture. It's very cheap, actually quite durable, thin, dries quickly and have no objectionable smell. I don't know what kind(s) of oil(s) that froms the basis for the Ikea oil. I doubt it is as good as tung oil or even boiled linseed oil though. Probably going to use some boiled linseed oil for the final layer(s). Considered going for really high-gloss "glass", but doubt I have the patience to build up all those layers and this thing is going to be used anyhow ;)

I also removed the brass tip from the sheat, loosened the frog and pulled it so far up it could go while still holding onto the sheat. Finaly I braided a strap from some rope I had lying around (wish I had some rope with a less screaming color, but the strong color has some merrits in other situations - easy to spot). The idea is that the strap/shoulder holds the weight while the belt holds the sheat in place. The strap can be adjusted, but it's made to a close fit (to me) and to typically be worn under the outer layer of clothing. In a hypotetical survival situation it can easilly be disassembled and used for other purposes. Of course this strap thingy would have been even better with a carabiner or similar quick release, but it's fun to make something entirely out of rope too.

So, here's the customary shots from my kitchen table. Need to drag my arse into the photo studio with the khukuris soon and make some proper shots.

The whole setup.
18_WWII_01.jpg


Nice wood! I really like the feel of wood, particularly with some oil in it. Bone is perfectly ok too, but wood feels more alive.
18_WWII_02.jpg


Excellent size for my pansy computer geek hands. Three good grip positions, standard, dropping down to the pommel or choking up. Gives a lot of control and balance.
18_WWII_03.jpg


Fantastic blade. Yes it has been sharpened and thus partially scratched/sanded.
18_WWII_04.jpg


A typical, substantial HI spine, but actually slightly thinner than the "15 AK.
18_WWII_05.jpg


"15 AK compared to "18 WII. The eye (or rather camera lens) do not really quite show the difference. I'm probably going to play around with forced patina, with iron chloride as soon as I get my hands on it. Presently I take a little Autosol (metal polish/cleaner) and a cloth and quickly rub down the blades after a while of use. It gives scratched (i.e. sanded) metall that polished brushed stainless steel look and cleans out gunk. I have no problem with gray, spotty users though, I just like to fiddle ;)
18_WWII_06.jpg


Mac
 
@ kazushi

...Cleaned and sanded down all the handles (minor reshape on the karda just for the fun of it, do not really ad anything) and have been oiling them over the last few days with some Ikea wood oil that I use on furniture. It's very cheap, actually quite durable, thin, dries quickly and have no objectionable smell. I don't know what kind(s) of oil(s) that froms the basis for the Ikea oil. I doubt it is as good as tung oil or even boiled linseed oil though. Probably going to use some boiled linseed oil for the final layer(s). Considered going for really high-gloss "glass", but doubt I have the patience to build up all those layers and this thing is going to be used anyhow

Mac
 
Great work on that handle and I like the braided strap...now it won't pull your pants down while hiking. I haven't khukuri carry done quite that way before - I might have to make one of those.
 
Great work on that handle and I like the braided strap...now it won't pull your pants down while hiking. I haven't khukuri carry done quite that way before - I might have to make one of those.

As I carry cameras all the time I'm very used to (and have experimented with) all kinds of straps, both leather, canvas and the more common kind of flat braided nylon-thingies. I definitely got a weak spot for leather but it's not ideal under all circumstances. Braiding a strap from rope is a new one for me but it distributes weight, is fairly soft and not so dense as a leather strap. Considering the fact that a khukuri means, well...work and sweat, I hope it'll do ok in practical use. The strap also comes in handy when strapping the khukuri to a backpack.

Mac
 
Mac, good pictures! I like blunt WWII's and yours is a very nice example. Has good clean lines while still retaining some of the hand made look and appeal. :D That handle looks comfy as all get out! the bell on the end angles down which is a little different then on mine, but looks better for certain grips. Thanks for sharing it with us.

If you are taking picture requests, I'd love to see pics of it and your AK getting used.
 
M4cr0s

I too and thinking of working over my sheath. How did you get the brass tip of the sheath so neatly? Heat? Chemicals? A combinations of the two? I also plan and reworking the back and either removing the karda all together or doing likewise...slipping something like an ESEE Isula back there. I am very handy with leather so I may just make a whole new frog.

Q
 
M4cr0s

I too and thinking of working over my sheath. How did you get the brass tip of the sheath so neatly? Heat? Chemicals? A combinations of the two? I also plan and reworking the back and either removing the karda all together or doing likewise...slipping something like an ESEE Isula back there. I am very handy with leather so I may just make a whole new frog.

Q


I heat it with a lighter, one of those "jet" ones, but a normal will work just fine. Don't have to heat it for a long while, just a few seconds. Use a pair of pliers to pull it off. Let the glue on the sheath cool. Start rubbing with your fingers. Eventually you'll sorta roll it up and peel it off. The same way you get off the glue after a bandaid. You should get it more or less perfectly clean this way. If any deeply embedded glue remains, try using mineral oil or Ballistol on it, let it sit for a little bit and then rub with a piece of cloth.

Now you're left with the end knot of the seam in the sheath dangling. You could cut it off and then glue the seam to lock it in place. You can also do what I do, drip clear nail polish on it and wait until it's almost dry and form the knot it a ball or something. Apply more nail polish until you have a thick and quite hard glassy ball. Coating the bottom "1/2 of the sheath itself is probably a good idea too.

Why? Nail polish is quite strong, but also quite flexible for varnish. Nail polish can be cleaned off using acetone and shouldn't glue the sheath for all eternity. The primary solvent in nail polish is...acetone, this means that new nail polish applied to old/dry nail polish will sort of melt it and mix a little bit with the top layer of the old varnish, thus restoring the clear finish very well. So, in other words, it keeps the seam stable, it protects the most exposed part of the sheath and if scratched or damaged, easily repaired.

I'm sure a lot of stuff can be used for this, many contact glues are clear and when hardened quite durable with no bubbles or "impurities". They tend to take a long while to harden though, especially when not gluing two surfaces together and might be runny. Superglue is too brittle, any kind of liquid epoxy is very durable but don't look good with possible bubbles and a yellow-brownish color. "Liquid rubber" for coating tools and similar is probably my favorite pick, but I don't have any...so I chose nail polish. Have worked fine so far.

Mac
 
Mac, good pictures! I like blunt WWII's and yours is a very nice example. Has good clean lines while still retaining some of the hand made look and appeal. :D That handle looks comfy as all get out! the bell on the end angles down which is a little different then on mine, but looks better for certain grips. Thanks for sharing it with us.

If you are taking picture requests, I'd love to see pics of it and your AK getting used.

The handle is awesome :) I wouldn't want it any shorter really, on any khukuri. It's only about "1/2 longer than my "15 AK, but makes a world of difference. The blunt nose almost gives me the shivers, combined with the deep bevel it's obviously made for making deep, long cuts into matter. For some reason that thought is more uncomfortable than getting stabbed or having a limb chopped off ;)

There's some user pics of the "15 AK a bit down in this thread: http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/s...ur-(with-crappy-pics)?p=10932715#post10932715

Probably going to post some with the WWII in a while too.

Mac
 
Hi khuknuts! :)I doubt it is as good as tung oil or even boiled linseed oil though. Probably going to use some boiled linseed oil for the final layer(s). Considered going for really high-gloss "glass", but doubt I have the patience to build up all those layers and this thing is going to be used anyhow ;)
You are correct young one. Best wood treatment, Tung Oil it is.
Yoda.jpg
Mac I'm presently making a 100% pure Tung Oil "how to" video and my research says Tung Oil does take time and patience. Although in the long run Tung is the toughest, least maintenance, and most beautiful finish in the galaxy! And one billion or two Chinese can't be wrong.
By the way that's a wonderful HI WWII Khukuri :thumbup:. It's weight will make it more for wood work I think but there's plenty of wood in Norway.
 
You are correct young one. Best wood treatment, Tung Oil it is.
View attachment 282754
Mac I'm presently making a 100% pure Tung Oil "how to" video and my research says Tung Oil does take time and patience. Although in the long run Tung is the toughest, least maintenance, and most beautiful finish in the galaxy! And one billion or two Chinese can't be wrong.

Actually, I managed to find the contents of the Ikea-oil here the other day and it's basically linseed oil. I have decided to try some tung oil though so your video might come in handy, hehe :) What I haven't quite decided on is if to go for a 100 % variety or on of the finishing oil blends with tung oil as the primary (but not only component).

By the way that's a wonderful HI WWII Khukuri :thumbup:. It's weight will make it more for wood work I think but there's plenty of wood in Norway.

You assume correctly. After most small-time farmers quit in the 70s and 80s we've got more trees than barrels of oil (no sheep in the woods anymore that control vegetation). Whole country is getting overgrown and the old paths and trails disappear :(

Mac
 
What I haven't quite decided on is if to go for a 100 % variety or on of the finishing oil blends with tung oil as the primary (but not only component).
It depends on what you what the wood for and your personal likes. Here's what I mean:
If you want a really glossy, high shine - Use an oil Blend (like Formby's)
If you want to eat with/on it - 100% tung with a non-toxic thinner (like Citrus Solvent). This becomes a matte finish but more coats does add luster and shine.
You could also compromise - Using most of your starting coats with 100% Pure Tung Oil and the last two or three use an Oil blend. This is also a glossy finish.
Note:
The Pure Tung Oil finish is more durable and longer lasting than a Tung oil blend.
A 100% Pure Tung oil finish takes two (2) months or more to complete (this includes necessary curing time)
Oil Bends take a little over one (1) month to finish.
Good luck Mac.
 
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For the last week I have been working with tung oil on the handle, first diluted with white spirits and later pure to really soak in the wood and build up a thick polymerized layer of oil preparing to get a quite shiny, glassy surface. My work place have been in my bathroom, since it's warmer there. Today I went to check on the condition and if it was ready for another layer. Suddenly the portable vise I use as a stand for the WWII sorta jumps off the top washing machine (I could almost hear it scream banzai or something) that I used for "table" and goes pommel first into the tile floor beneath with the vise still attached. A huge dent in the brass and where it has been forced into the handle some wood chips was knocked off. No cracks and the khukuri is perfectly serviceable but dang, that's a lot of work and patience ruined! :( I'll have to sand quite a bit to fix this and the pommel will never look as nice as it used to do. I guess this khukuri just screams to be a user ;)

Mac
 
:thumbup: to Tru-Oil...easy to use and a quick beautiful finish after just a couple coats. I also use pure Tung oil (first layers mixed with mineral spirits) and Boiled Linseed Oil (first layers mixed with mineral spirits) depending on my mood and the project.

A huge dent in the brass ...
I like to think of them as personality marks:
DSC_6311a.jpg
 
Too bad about M4cr0s Kukri and Tung Oil project but he'll recover because he is tough. But wow bric how did that happen? Looks like the steel was cut and wood knocked off with it. Very interesting damage. Looks like Mayhem has been busy.
allstate_mayhem_douglas_fir.jpg
 
Mayhem is about right...let's just say that I no longer recommend the following as a Khukuri storage option:

DSC_2950a.jpg
 
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