18th Century Model?

Triquetra

Triquetra

Joined
Mar 7, 2002
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759
What constitutes an 18th Century model? I thought that it was the one with the rounded shoulder and the cross hatching on the blade. Some of the ones offered lately on the specials look kind of like a WWII model to me. Anyone know what the difference is? Balance, thickness?
 
It did look a little WWll tooey, but the 18th centurys I've looked at from these photos have a thicker neck, a wider and more bell shaped handle, and a gentle curve rather than a angular take down to the end of the blade.



munk
 
Originally posted by mohd
IMHO the top Khuk is not a 18th Century Model.
Click to expand...
Your probably right.
Probably the wrong pic.
That's a 15" AK, I think.
Fer sure it's not 18". [Edit: I'm wrong. See my post below]

Bet the buyer gets a surprise when the box arrives.
 
Don't know how to judge the length, but I'm guessing WWII. Can't see the fuller that would make it an AK. But my eyes are bad.
 
Originally posted by Aardvark
Don't know how to judge the length, but I'm guessing WWII. Can't see the fuller that would make it an AK.
Click to expand...
Ah....knew something didn't look right for an AK,
but couldn't put my finger on it.
The boards are about 4.5" wide, maybe a bit more.
I misremembered them as 4",
so my 15" estimate was wrong.
It estimates as 17", so 18" is probably right.
The bend is too far forward for a WWII, I think.
But not rounded enough for an 18th century?

I think it's a "one of" hybrid ( 18 Cent WWII ).
Nepal Ho.
:D
 
To me the 18th Century is a forward curving khuk. The one in the pic looks more like a WW II.
A forward curving khuk cuts differently than a standard angular khuk which is the charm and mystique of all forward curving khukuris.
And I'm kind of like the kamis who refused to make the 18th Century without the hatchmarks.
Without them it just isn't an 18th Century although it may be an 18th Century style.:p
 
I personally don't care for the hatchmarks. I have enough trouble keeping my khuks clean when they have a smooth surface.

Any ideas why that style has them? What practical purpose could they serve?
 
Worry not ddean, I'm the buyer, and I looked at it and said, "That's really more of a WW2" as well before I bought it. I'll keep my eyes out for a more rounded one, but this one was bought on the basis of handle size (which looks to be good--though how I'm telling this from a picture is kind of a Zen thing) and the smaller looking edge bevel, which I hope translates into a thicker edge. I have an 18inch AK by "!" that is an absolute razor, but its edge is so thin that it's pretty much relegated to soft stuff.
I'm hoping this is my new uber-chopper. :)
 
Originally posted by t1mpani
...and the smaller looking edge bevel, which I hope translates into a thicker edge.
I have an 18inch AK by "!" that is an absolute razor, but its edge is so thin that it's pretty much relegated to soft stuff.
Click to expand...

I still think we shouldn't have to "tweak" the edges to what they should be but since we're stuck with what we get the nice thing is that the thin edges can be fixed.
They won't be a true fully convexed edge, but at least the edge itself can be convexed and consequently strengthened without losing too much of the width.
I ground off about 1/8" along the edge of my Foxy Folly which made the edge thickness a respectable .075" or approximately 5/64" about 1/16" from the edge proper. It will be maybe a tad thinner after I finish the convexed edge on it, but I doubt it will stick in the cut like so many of the thin edges do.:D
Still waiting on getting the brown leather covered scabbard back from Terry.
His last missive said that he had ran out of leather dye and that he needed to get some for the frog to finish it.
I'm not going to finish sharpening it until I get the scabbard so as to see how it fits exactly.
Mine was one of the ones that had cut through the edge of the scabbard and was dangerous that way.
When I finally get it done I will take some pix and get someone to post them.:)
 
I'm w/Yvsa onn this one, even to the point that the blade can be angled or forward curving (My pref). Filemarking makes the 18th C., and may be a leftover from the Reti(?) filesteel source in those days (cause I doubt they had euro car leaf springs in that day, but it was still recycle! Files, scrap, RR sections, etc.)

Keith
 
I say to heck with the hatch marks, though understand why you many of you feel they must be there.




munk
 
Yvsa,
Yeah, I've considered knocking that edge down a bit, I just haven't worked up the courage. Do you realize how long it took me to take a file/sotnes to my first one after I got it?! But, eventually it'll eat at me enough that I'll warm up the belt sander and see what I can do. Unless of course this new one has a nice convex edge, in which case I'll leave this one alone, and it can just be for executions. :D

As far as hatch marks go, I really like them on my Reti, but they're much shallower than most of the ones I've seen pictures of, so they aren't hard to clean out. I can see both viewpoints.
 
I wouldn't run from the house shreaking if a khuk had them, but if the shape of the khuk is 18th century, I think the hatch marks take away from the beauty. The curve is gentle and the hatch marks are glaring. I can see the form better without all those scratch marks... Geeeze, so many of my Khuks are starting to look like 18th Centuries and I wish they wouldn't!!!

Hell, ship them to me and I'll scratch them for you.




munk
 
Originally posted by Yvsa
I still think we shouldn't have to "tweak" the edges to what they should be but since we're stuck with what we get the nice thing is that the thin edges can be fixed.
They won't be a true fully convexed edge, but at least the edge itself can be convexed and consequently strengthened without losing too much of the width.
I ground off about 1/8" along the edge of my Foxy Folly which made the edge thickness a respectable .075" or approximately 5/64" about 1/16" from the edge proper. It will be maybe a tad thinner after I finish the convexed edge on it, but I doubt it will stick in the cut like so many of the thin edges do.:D
Still waiting on getting the brown leather covered scabbard back from Terry.
His last missive said that he had ran out of leather dye and that he needed to get some for the frog to finish it.
I'm not going to finish sharpening it until I get the scabbard so as to see how it fits exactly.Mine was one of the ones that had cut through the edge of the scabbard and was dangerous that way.When I finally get it done I will take some pix and get someone to post them.:)
Click to expand...
:D

Yvsa,

I agree with you 300% on the edges. One of the most frustrating things to me is to have to fool with the edges to get them right. Second most frustrating is to get them right and then go out and chop something and by the second thing you cut you can tell it is getting dull. Third most frustrating is to get ones that have good durable edges on them cause then you know that it CAN be done, it just ISN'T most of the time.

I'm waiting on one from Terry too. I can't wait to get it but have been missing my 2 favorite khukuris that went down there.
 
I have no real complaint about the durability of the edge. Almost all the time the edge is hardened correctly. What used to happen, and less so today, is the ultra thin edges, particularly at the Maoist uprising period. Since then, both Sher and Kumar make a modified almost convex edge that does not stick in my experience and wears well.

I have a 25" AK by Sanu that is beaut but I'm worried about the very thin edge, the fact the edge wavers, and the very soft tip. Perhaps because the blade can go deep the tip gets bent, I don't know. But I'm going to cut down a tree this spring and see how she holds up. She has passed the beat the stump test.


Bura still makes a thin edge, but not ultra thin, and his edges are tough. Just my experiences.

munk
 
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