1911 question

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Aug 7, 2008
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is it called "polishing the ramp" on a .45 1911? this improves feeding problems and decreases jams right?
this is only on 1911s right, not like on a glock .45 or something?

thanks
 
Yes, it's "polishing the ramp" or, more accurately, "polishing the feed ramp." It's the piece of metal at the bottom of the chamber that helps guide the round in.

I don't own a Glock, so will leave that answer to someone who does.

If you're not having malfunctions with feeding, you probably don't even need to worry about this. Most newer guns are pretty good right out of the box. And, as with any brand new gun, don't make any judgment about reliability until you've put at least a few hundred rounds through it.
 
You usually do a "buff and polish" to make non-FMJ rounds (SWC and JHP) feed as smooth and as reliably as FMJ rounds.
 
The newer 1911s have a number of changes in dimensions so they are much better.If it works don't mess with it ! Older ones have a number of possible problem areas and may require more than just a polish. Always test various types of ammo to find the ones that are completely reliable.Mark all magazines for any auto so you can separate gun ,ammo and magazine problems.
BTW a properly designed pistol doesn't need a polished feed ramp !! My HK P7 has just a not very smooth machined surface and it's completely flat !!!
 
Also, it's not good to go hog wild with the polishing. There needs to be some friction on the nose of the bullet for proper feeding.

BTW; Never, ever, let a Dremel tool near one of your guns. "There is no problem that can't be made worse with a Dremel tool."
 
Also, it's not good to go hog wild with the polishing. There needs to be some friction on the nose of the bullet for proper feeding.

BTW; Never, ever, let a Dremel tool near one of your guns. "There is no problem that can't be made worse with a Dremel tool."
That's not true, as long as you know how to use the tool correctly. I've throated & polished many a 1911-style pistol's feed-ramps with a Dremel, with NO problems.
 
I have worked over many of my guns with a Dremel, felt tip and jewelers rouge. Shine up the ramp, chamber and so forth, and give a little attention to just about any mating surface I can find. Hard core fluff and buff guys will lightly polish even the inside of the magazine to presumably assist the spring and follower. While not maybe necessary with every gun, it is certainly helpful on some of the lower end guns (Kel-tec, for example) that do not get a lot of attention at the factor. But it just makes me feel good to have a shiny ramp.

:thumbup:
 
A few hundred rounds through the gun will also have the same effect and it is a lot more fun.
 
First, as was said, make sure the magazine is not the problem. Next look at how the FTF is happening. The most common with HP is the opening catching the joint between barrel and frame. This is most often caused by the barrel overhanging the frame's feed ramp. If you don't know what you are doing this would be a good time to find a good gunsmith. This is fixable by yourself but requires removing metal and while it is easy to take off, it is a bitch to put back on...lol. I use a file to shorten and square the breech area and then recut the throat as needed but I have a good deal of experience and yes...I ruined several barrels learning how to do this.

Best thing you can do before starting is to buy a copy of Hallock's .45 Auto Handbook. This is one of the oldest and I think still one of the best manual to learn from.

Glocks have a ramped barrel (as do many semi-autos including newer 1911s). These can benefit from a light polishing. The goal is not to remove metal but only to polish...no sanding drums on the dremel please. If there is an obvious machining ridge on the ramp...and I have seen them...I would advice sending it in and letting Glock or whoever made the firearm fix it. If you want to do it yourself I would discourage the use of a dremel and use stones only to reduce the ridge.
 
That's not true, as long as you know how to use the tool correctly. I've throated & polished many a 1911-style pistol's feed-ramps with a Dremel, with NO problems.

Yes, perhaps I was too stringent with my warning. I just meant that it's very easy to jack things up with a Dremel. At 30,000 RPM, even felt and rouge will devour steel if you let it. The trepidation was passed on to me from people who've cleaned up the aftermath of bubba going to work with a coarse conical stone and a bastard file:eek:
 
+1 on the Hallock's Book of the .45. Best primer on the 1911 written. Use it to diagnose and identify your problem. Then SLOWLY proceed with the repair, or call a gunsmith depending on you comfort zone.
 
Modern 1911's like the Kimbers, Springfields, etc. already have a number of what historically have been custom pistolsmith upgrades as they come from the factory. This is the case even with the most basic military look models from Kimber. These guns are built to shoot modern hollow point ammo and do it very reliably and accurately. It might be worth your while to run down a used newer gun as doing the upgrades after the fact still costs a lot more than what the manufacturers charge.
 
jdm61, as I sit here surveying my repair bench for 1911's with feed problems I have the following in for work-

2-Springfields, 1 TRP and 1 GI
1-Kimber SIS
3-Colts, 1 Commander,1 Gold Cup and 1 1991 Officers
1-RIA full size
1-Wilson that has been back to Wilson 3 times for feed issues

These are all less than 2 years old and this is not unusual. I do ALOT of work on 1911's and to my knowledge none of these (or any other) manufacturers warrant their pistols with anything but WWB 230gr. FMJ. for function. Just too many variables in the production process for their pistols and for that matter the ammo also.

The only 1911's I have never had issues with as far as feed and function are Clark (old Jims work, not todays shop), Larry Vickers (not Nighthawk) and Ed Brown.

Just my observations, ymmv.
 
jdm61, as I sit here surveying my repair bench for 1911's with feed problems I have the following in for work-

2-Springfields, 1 TRP and 1 GI
1-Kimber SIS
3-Colts, 1 Commander,1 Gold Cup and 1 1991 Officers
1-RIA full size
1-Wilson that has been back to Wilson 3 times for feed issues

These are all less than 2 years old and this is not unusual. I do ALOT of work on 1911's and to my knowledge none of these (or any other) manufacturers warrant their pistols with anything but WWB 230gr. FMJ. for function. Just too many variables in the production process for their pistols and for that matter the ammo also.

The only 1911's I have never had issues with as far as feed and function are Clark (old Jims work, not todays shop), Larry Vickers (not Nighthawk) and Ed Brown.

Just my observations, ymmv.
You would expect flawless function from the Ed Brown guns. They seem to have the reputation of being about the most reliable automatic pistols of any type, not just 1911's. The Wilson sounds like a lemon.
 
The only 1911's I have never had issues with as far as feed and function are Clark (old Jims work, not todays shop)...

Just my observations, ymmv.
I agree...Old Jimmy always liked to have the slide-to-frame fit so tight that it darn-near took a large mallet to move the slide back & forth.
 
You would expect flawless function from the Ed Brown guns. They seem to have the reputation of being about the most reliable automatic pistols of any type, not just 1911's. The Wilson sounds like a lemon.
You have to remember that both Clark and Wilson built pistols for competition, not pistols used to save one's life with, so 100% reliability took a backseat to 100% accuracy, due to the very close tolerances.
 
It took very little to make a Clark Bullseye gun malfunction, A high thumb pressing lightly on the side of the slide was always good for an alibi if you were shooting a bad string...lol. The guns I build aren't quite that tight but will easily group 6 shots into 2 inches at 50 yards (38 Super). Just takes time to fit a slide, that and some good stones.
 
If I spent the serious coin for a Wilson, it had better feed any of the common defensive rounds....
A lot of people like Les Baers, but they are a little to tight for my liking.

Course I wouldn't spend 2 large for a 1911. Its not rocket science making one reliable and accurate.

As far as the Glocks, I've never had the need to modify one. Although I did some work on my 36 to make it more comfortable to shoot. And yes, I used a Dremel on the frame. I was extremely cautious though, especially when I relieved the back of the trigger guard. That is an extremely thin area..
 
be carefull when grinding on a 1911, i know of a couple which buds of mine messed with and ruined,

one of my buds did a trigger job on his commander, and a couple other things, dont remember now exactly what, but he took it out to give it a try, fired 2X, jammed, he cleard it and fired it again and the slide release came out and the whole thing fell into peices at his feet, one of the funniest things i have ever seen lol, he bundled up the peices into a bandanna and took and traded it in at the next gun show on a ruger security six,

so, if ya dont know or dont have someone to help ya who knows, i would get a 'smith to do it.
 
be carefull when grinding on a 1911, i know of a couple which buds of mine messed with and ruined,

one of my buds did a trigger job on his commander, and a couple other things, dont remember now exactly what, but he took it out to give it a try, fired 2X, jammed, he cleard it and fired it again and the slide release came out and the whole thing fell into peices at his feet, one of the funniest things i have ever seen lol, he bundled up the peices into a bandanna and took and traded it in at the next gun show on a ruger security six,

so, if ya dont know or dont have someone to help ya who knows, i would get a 'smith to do it.

There are a lot of people that shouldn't be working on guns period....
Like your friend, some people are just better suited to own revolvers, nothing wrong with that.

Nothing pisses me off more than lookin at a nice 1911, especially an older one, and finding a big "take down scratch" from when someone reinstalled the slide stop incorrectly... Thats just basic dis-assembly so it can be properly cleaned.

When I work on a gun, I go out in the shop and close the door.
I don't want any distractions.
 
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