1k King stone and WB - how to video

HeavyHanded

HeavyHanded

Joined
Jun 4, 2010
Messages
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Another quick (10 minute) WB video. Wanted to make one showing the use of reclaimed mud from a waterstone - some technique on a JWS and restating some benefits peculiar to the WB. Pretty much any grit of appropriate abrasive can be used on the WB with increased utility compared to other methods. In the case of most Japanese waterstones you're already creating mud that can be quite useful. When lapping a dished JWS flat is another perfect time to make a few stropping sheets - each will last for multiple sessions. One can also use this method by wrapping the paper around a regular stone or other hard surface and works well, but will not get the same effect.

The slice was taken off my stone with a diamond grit sawsall blade and one of the handle adapters for using sawsall blades manually. Just flush with water often and it will cut right through. Have done all my King stones and Norton waterstones very easily, and even cut an inexpensive 8" AlumOx combination stone lengthwise to make a multi-grit canoe stone.

Thanks for watching!

[video=youtube_share;RXr-FPME-jc]http://youtu.be/RXr-FPME-jc[/video]
 
HeavyHanded said:
Another quick (10 minute) WB video. Wanted to make one showing the use of reclaimed mud from a waterstone - some technique on a JWS and restating some benefits peculiar to the WB. Pretty much any grit of appropriate abrasive can be used on the WB with increased utility compared to other methods. In the case of most Japanese waterstones you're already creating mud that can be quite useful. When lapping a dished JWS flat is another perfect time to make a few stropping sheets - each will last for multiple sessions. One can also use this method by wrapping the paper around a regular stone or other hard surface and works well, but will not get the same effect.

The slice was taken off my stone with a diamond grit sawsall blade and one of the handle adapters for using sawsall blades manually. Just flush with water often and it will cut right through. Have done all my King stones and Norton waterstones very easily, and even cut an inexpensive 8" AlumOx combination stone lengthwise to make a multi-grit canoe stone.

Thanks for watching!

[youtube]RXr-FPME-jc[/youtube]
Click to expand...

Martin,

Will download & watch!
 
Hey Martin
Thanks for the video. I will have to give this technique a try. I have been using the WB a lot lately. I've been using it to sharpen the knives I make with very satisfying results for me and my customers.Thanks again for sharing.
 
Thanks for the vid with nice idea of harvesting jws mud. Instead of cut a slice out of your waterstone, could one use a nagura for producing mud?
 
bluntcut said:
Thanks for the vid with nice idea of harvesting jws mud. Instead of cut a slice out of your waterstone, could one use a nagura for producing mud?
Click to expand...

You could definitely use a Nagura stone for this, or anything that will abrade the stone without shedding too much into the mix. Another knife or other piece of metal can be used as well, you'll get a bunch of swarf in the mix but it works fine.
 
flatblackcapo said:
Hey Martin
Thanks for the video. I will have to give this technique a try. I have been using the WB a lot lately. I've been using it to sharpen the knives I make with very satisfying results for me and my customers.Thanks again for sharing.
Click to expand...

Am glad its working well for you!
Keep in mind the waterstone mud method is more of an improvised technique - you'll likely get a better result using compound or the grit from a silicon carbide stone. Of course it all depends on the waterstone too - the mud from my Norton stones is a lot more aggressive than the stuff from my Kings and I have to imagine every stone will have a range of effectiveness. It works best for simplicity and speed, and like so many improvised methods it works best on softer steels. On higher RC stuff you're better off with something in a binder that will stick to the paper better - the JWS mud is essentially a loose grit on the paper and as such it moves around and is a lot less aggressive than other options. That said, you can pound out a handful of kitchen knives or a machete in very short order and apply a very nice edge with very little fuss. Can also maintain very well as this powder is more than enough to grind a fresh edge on moderately worn edges.

I'm putting this out there to show another way the WB can work as a system by itself, but also works very well with other stone selections etc for finishing and maintenance, sometimes making use of materials that are otherwise thrown away or overlooked. The grit from a silicone carbide stone works impressively well in this capacity. Most of these methods, as with regular stropping compound, I've used for a long time on paper wrapped around a combination stone. They will work very well in that way and is worth a try for the curious, but all work better on the Washboard.
 
Great video once again. Thanks for sharing. You really have your "pre-load-wrist" technique down Martin !!
 
Chris "Anagarika";12898792 said:
Martin,

Do you have several preload wrist angle?;)
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Sometimes its more of "preloaded attention". But yes, there's a bunch of them - like everything else - the right way and the way I wind up doing it much of the time :o
 
HeavyHanded said:
Sometimes its more of "preloaded attention". But yes, there's a bunch of them - like everything else - the right way and the way I wind up doing it much of the time :o
Click to expand...

I guess from many of your videos, the way you ended up doing is the right way. The proof is on the newsprint slice.

Actuall I was asking if you set a personal hard use preload (more robust), light use preload (more acute). When I sharpen, most of the time it ended up with same angle regardless of blade geometry :o
 
Chris "Anagarika";12900776 said:
I guess from many of your videos, the way you ended up doing is the right way. The proof is on the newsprint slice.

Actuall I was asking if you set a personal hard use preload (more robust), light use preload (more acute). When I sharpen, most of the time it ended up with same angle regardless of blade geometry :o
Click to expand...

Chris, I used to use a base that had scribe lines on it and I got in the habit of doing everything at 26 inclusive. If it was a harder use item I'd open that up to 30 but I always felt that if I didn't consciously fight it, the angles would open up a bit anyway. The wrist "pre-load" has less to do with a specific angle than it has to do with overall form. If I position the knife so its somewhat neutral/comfortable while I work, if I zone out or get impatient or lazy while removing a burr, the angle will tend to get larger. If I position the knife so I have to consciously activate the muscles in my forearm to keep the edge in good contact (based on tactile feedback), any slackening will make the angle smaller, not larger. Any change in feedback will be me hitting the shoulder and not crossing the apex. Combined with the shorter strokes I use, is another technique to overcome my lack of natural angle holding skills.

Am not sure if I'm explaining this well...
 
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