1st 3 made from 2-torch-1-brick forge

L

loosenock

Joined
Jul 10, 2002
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77
Three knives in two weeks and I lost 6 pounds because I'm not setting on the couch watching TV and eating.

The top one I showed earlier on this forum is a WWII commando replica with maple handles and poured lead rivets. I finished it off with a ferric nitrate finish. Ferric nitrate gives a "case hardened" look to it. Sheath is copper riveted, hand saddle stitched.

The middle one is a 4 inch boot knife. Handles are thin laminations of maple (home made maple micarta). The sheath is copper riveted reinforced and designed to be sewn or laced into boot.

The bottom knife, I made a replacement Randall #1 style blade for a Buck 110 folder. By far the most challenging of the three but really turned out super.

All blades made from Crucible 0-1.

This is starting to be real fun.

Loosenock
 

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Nice work!! Keep em coming and lose another 6 pounds. I gained six pounds when I started reading this forum everyday.
 
I'm impressed.
Hows your heat treat coming out?
I'm in the process of making a forge similar to yours. I'm going to make more of a box though cause I haven't found any of the big firebricks( only have the small ones for lining a stove) and I'm going to use a big torch with a spread/ flare tip and a bigger tank. (already have the torch or I'd go with the plumbing torch)

That folder blade is cool. Do you have a mill? I tried my hand at making lockbacks and ended up going with liner locks. I could never get the locking lug and tang to fit up how I wanted filing it by hand.
 
From the obvious quality of your work, you don't seem to be a stranger to the shop, and you sure have done your homework! Great knives, excellent work, and a good attitude. Wish I could lose 6 lbs!

Dave
 
Thanks to all.

Your supportive comments are truely appreciated.

My work shop consist off a 1"X42" belt sander, vice, drill, wide selection of quality files, $0.99 toaster oven, and of course, the 2-torch-1-brick forge.

If I have any developed skill it would be in filing. I watched my grandfather back in the 50's turn down an old surplus Mauser barrel with nothing but files. It was an amazing job, really beautiful. He taught me how to draw-file. Most take a file and just start pushing the file into the work. This will certainly move metal, but its results as far as looks go leaves alot to be desired.

Draw-filing, you take a clean, quality file and lay it perpendicular to the work being done, one hand on each end of the file. Then, with gentle pressure, you draw the file to you. You pick the file up, move it back to your first stroke and repeat the process. You can get a wonderful finish to your steel that can pass for very fine milling work. You'll notice that you get fine hair size cork screws of metal being removed. Its an eazy process to master. Be sure to keep the file flat and clean often. Early gunsmiths used this technique when making octogon barrels for their rifles.

I posted a thread under Makers and Manufacturer, Buck knife forum with several detailed pictures of the Buck 110 project along with a more descriptive story.

Heat treating has been very successful. I have a magnet suspended from my ceiling above the forge. When ever I feel the blade is ready for quench I pass it by the magnet to be sure it is not magnetic. Then back in the forge for about 30 seconds and then the quench. I temper the blade three times in my $0.99 toaster oven. The Buck blade looked like it was straw gold anodized after the triple temper.

I have met some nice people here on the forums and my thanks go to those blade smiths that have shared their knowledge to get me started. I hope I can do the same.

Joe (loosenock)
 
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