1st Kydex / Leather Saya - What can I improve?

Brock Cutlery

Brock Cutlery

Joined
Jan 10, 2015
Messages
1,673
Here it is. This was going to be the most awesome saya ever, but since it's my first, not so much. :)
I learned a lot of lessons on this project, and probably have 12 hours in it, which is way to many for the value, but surely invaluable for the teaching opportunity to me.
This is leather over kydex, and it is a very pleasing combination. I love the idea of kydex, but hate the way it looks, all plasticy and all. But the Leather enhances the look while the kydex provides the function. Perfect!
So this is my interpretation of a leather over kydex say with a tactical influence in the hardware.

This was sown on my Tippman Boss hand crank, and I am in love with that machine already. That said, there were many challenges. The main issue is the slight marring of the leather by the foot and the base as it moves the piece along during the stitch. There is also a definite front and back side to the stitching, unlike a hand stitch which is more equal on both sides. Thankfully there is also a front and back for most sheaths, so this is a livable condition.

My mistakes:
1. I ran out of the dye used, so didn't get quite the effect there I was after.
2. I didn't rough up the kydex for the contact cement, so there could be some separation over time. The stitches and fasteners will keep it together, so it shouldn't be a huge issue.
3. While I corrected some stitching mistakes, I didn't pay enough attention to some and some minor stitching issues are apparent, mostly on the back.
4. I realized after I was well into the leather shaping that, even though I had some gloves on, my fingernails had marked up the leather, so I had to mark up the whole things to give it that distressed fingernail look. :barf:
5. Fasteners not spaced from the edge well.

If anyone has advice on the project, especially the stitching I would love to hear your thoughts.
Questions/comments/critiques most welcome.

Thanks All!



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When you glued it up, did you put it back into the kydex press to set? That will help achieve better contact. I think I would have tried to temporarily affix the kydex and leather together to sand the final shape, then separated and done the edge beveling and edge slicking on the leather prior to gluing together permanently. I would also likely use black edge dressing/edge kote whatever it's called to make the leather and kydex edges match but that's my personal preference appearance-wise only.

Why the screws and posts? If you stitched through the kydex are they necessary mechanically? If they're not necessary mechanically then they're there for show. If they're there for show, then quick rivets in brass/copper/antique whatever/black would look better (be cheaper too).

I'm not trying to be critical this looks much better than the last attempt I made at leather covered kydex. Most of my critiques are based on how that turned out and it's looking like you did some of the same things I did.
 
I did put it back in the press with the knife in it. It made sense and I appreciate the suggestion.
I agree on the edge burnishing. I'll have to work that out. Good idea on the blacking too.

Screws look cool to me. I think leather and steel look good together, especially gun metal. :) I don't think they were necessary though. I don't really like rivets. I guess I'm a fan of the industrial look.

I appreciate the critique. It's how we all learn. Spew to your hearts content.
 
i think it looks good. your next one will probably take 7 hours, and your third 5 hours. eventually i think you will get it down to 3 hours. can you take that shoe off and polish the underside or adjust its tension so it does not press so hard? was the boss able to stitch through the kydex and leather ? i would be very impressed if it did :D
 
Thanks Josh. :)

Hey John, I agree. It will get faster, and probably significantly better as my leather and sewing skills improve.
I reduced the tension all the way to the point where it wouldn't pull the work along, then back enough to make it work. It still left a bit if a mark.
The shoe seems pretty polished, but it's definitely something to look into. I also have 3 kinds of shoes and haven't tried each one to see if it helps. I will do that.

The Boss had no problem going through two heavy layers of leather, and two fairly thick pieces of kydex. The only issue there that I noted was on the upstroke, sometimes the work wanted to come up with the needle.
It wasn't hard to counter that, just had to be mindful of it.
Thanks for your comments sir!
 
I think that looks pretty good
I'll be putting my order in soon, but I'm not paying you for no 12 hours work! lol

:-)
 
The only way I've been able to nearly eliminate marks from the foot is to wait until the leather is dry.

The single side foot should reduce them but there is a sharp corner in the back that needs to be relieved or it scrapes along.
 
Kydex does not like to be glued. Contact cement is not going to hold like it should.

I would use 3M 77 spray adhesive.

Spray on both surfaces, let stand until tacky and then apply.

It will hold like a champ.
 
Thanks John, I'll have to order that foot. I just need to figure out which side I need.

I will do some testing with the 3M Adam. Thanks for that tip!
 
I like it! Question-do you drill the holes for the screws after you've stitched it? Or do you drill first then stitch? Always wondered how the guys who river along the stitch line do so without compromising the stitch. Thanks


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Thanks Auto.
These were punched, no drilling. Punched first, then sewn, then screws. Each stitch run ends at the screw hole, so no interference.
 
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