- Joined
- Jul 11, 2010
- Messages
- 14
pics of knives I've had, I polished and the 2 cold steel plus shun: http://s1102.photobucket.com/user/Mike_Olech/slideshow/
Hey guys, I've been reading and sometimes posting for a long time,
I kind of don't like how the photo posting system works, but hey its what we got.
Anyway, I wanted to post some pics and share some photos of 3 knives I'm working on and may sell down the road or keep. So its kind of like a story of sorts.
Most of the knives I have bought over the years have been for EDC, tactical, camp use, survival, etc. Aside from EDC use, the most used area of knives for me is really the kitchen, but this before now was an area of cutlery that I overlooked for some reason. usually only using a Paula dean, or Faberware type of knife. However, a few years ago I bought a cold steel K5, and was so blown away that I knew I had to get into kitchen knives. I would put this post in that forum, but its really about polishing, sharpening, and restoration, not about kitchen knives in general. maybe the mod will feel differently, but I'm not sure.
Anyway, I now have a set of 3 knives that I plan to restore back to better than new in a way. The cold steel K7, K5, both in vg-1 for light slicing and food prep, and a new knife I just got - which sparked this whole idea to restore all of them - The shun/Kershaw collaboration knife a Shun Kaji Kai KDM0031 SG2 Clad Western Cook's 8" Knife with Case.
All 3 are great knives and these are the plans for them and any input would be nice: Also, on the logo parts, I usually just dance around them or cover them up with tape or clear nail polish, then use white jew. rouge for the final buff, which blends everything together.
For the cold steel i'll have to use sandpaper starting at say 320 and working up to 3k or 5k then buff to mirror and then sharpen at 16 degree up to 5k, strop, etc.
The Shun I got for $112 w/ shipping, and it came with a really nice magnetic case, which I think was a good deal, what do you guys think?
I plan to mirror the back pommel, lightly buff the wood and use a nice oil on it to get a richer look. normal tape works fine to keep the wheels from touching the wood. then will mirror the rivets as well, the wood is very strong and has no gaps at all fixed to the full tang knife.
The shun will be a little more delicate in restoration and its 65 hrc. It is mirror polished already too, but has some pits on the spine, and middle of the blade, plus some surface scratches. Also, light rust on the logo, and the black bands will need to be fixed too. From the looks of the knife It has never been sharpened, which is a good thing. In normal light it looks ok already. but far from what I will get hopefully. There are a few surface scratches too, and the edge is horrible, but the tip is nice, which is a plus:
So, I plan to tape off the handle. Then buff the back pommel.
Then do the rivets.
Next, I will not use sandpaper, since it is already mirror polished. But plan to start with harder cotton wheels with emery, then yellow metal compound, and finish with white jew. rouge on a soft wheel.
I'll first do the guard/bolster portion, which will be fine and then maybe either leave the black line off, buff it off, or use a black epoxy and restore it to new.
The hard part is going to be the blade. I think that, i'll first tape the logo and do a hard cotton wheel all around it with emery, then yellow, and finally again white with soft wheel.
then I think I will apply clear nail polish to both logo's and use white rouge for the final buff on a soft cotton wheel with the white rouge and then hit the logo as need to blend in the polish into the final mirror, hopefully taking off any rust, but preserving the logo as good as possible.
finally, I will clean it, then flitz hand polish everything, and then oil, or stain the wood if needed. The case I already cleaned with regular furniture polish and it looks great. I love the magnetic feature.
Once I'm happy with all of it, i'll sharpen it to the factory 16 degree: i'll use 220/320 sandpaper, then take it to DMT stones: course, fine, extra fine, then back to sandpaper, 1,500, 2k, 2500, 3k, and then 5k - strop w/ white rouge and that should take care of it. This will be one of my more challenging projects, but I've had great results in the past.
One question I do have for you guys is this: Since the shun is already mirror polished, but has some scratches/light rusting pits - should I use say 3 or 5k sandpaper, then start the buff or just go right to the buffing? I think just going to the buffing would be best, and emery with a good wheel is pretty effective.
Hey guys, I've been reading and sometimes posting for a long time,
I kind of don't like how the photo posting system works, but hey its what we got.
Anyway, I wanted to post some pics and share some photos of 3 knives I'm working on and may sell down the road or keep. So its kind of like a story of sorts.
Most of the knives I have bought over the years have been for EDC, tactical, camp use, survival, etc. Aside from EDC use, the most used area of knives for me is really the kitchen, but this before now was an area of cutlery that I overlooked for some reason. usually only using a Paula dean, or Faberware type of knife. However, a few years ago I bought a cold steel K5, and was so blown away that I knew I had to get into kitchen knives. I would put this post in that forum, but its really about polishing, sharpening, and restoration, not about kitchen knives in general. maybe the mod will feel differently, but I'm not sure.
Anyway, I now have a set of 3 knives that I plan to restore back to better than new in a way. The cold steel K7, K5, both in vg-1 for light slicing and food prep, and a new knife I just got - which sparked this whole idea to restore all of them - The shun/Kershaw collaboration knife a Shun Kaji Kai KDM0031 SG2 Clad Western Cook's 8" Knife with Case.
All 3 are great knives and these are the plans for them and any input would be nice: Also, on the logo parts, I usually just dance around them or cover them up with tape or clear nail polish, then use white jew. rouge for the final buff, which blends everything together.
For the cold steel i'll have to use sandpaper starting at say 320 and working up to 3k or 5k then buff to mirror and then sharpen at 16 degree up to 5k, strop, etc.
The Shun I got for $112 w/ shipping, and it came with a really nice magnetic case, which I think was a good deal, what do you guys think?
I plan to mirror the back pommel, lightly buff the wood and use a nice oil on it to get a richer look. normal tape works fine to keep the wheels from touching the wood. then will mirror the rivets as well, the wood is very strong and has no gaps at all fixed to the full tang knife.
The shun will be a little more delicate in restoration and its 65 hrc. It is mirror polished already too, but has some pits on the spine, and middle of the blade, plus some surface scratches. Also, light rust on the logo, and the black bands will need to be fixed too. From the looks of the knife It has never been sharpened, which is a good thing. In normal light it looks ok already. but far from what I will get hopefully. There are a few surface scratches too, and the edge is horrible, but the tip is nice, which is a plus:
So, I plan to tape off the handle. Then buff the back pommel.
Then do the rivets.
Next, I will not use sandpaper, since it is already mirror polished. But plan to start with harder cotton wheels with emery, then yellow metal compound, and finish with white jew. rouge on a soft wheel.
I'll first do the guard/bolster portion, which will be fine and then maybe either leave the black line off, buff it off, or use a black epoxy and restore it to new.
The hard part is going to be the blade. I think that, i'll first tape the logo and do a hard cotton wheel all around it with emery, then yellow, and finally again white with soft wheel.
then I think I will apply clear nail polish to both logo's and use white rouge for the final buff on a soft cotton wheel with the white rouge and then hit the logo as need to blend in the polish into the final mirror, hopefully taking off any rust, but preserving the logo as good as possible.
finally, I will clean it, then flitz hand polish everything, and then oil, or stain the wood if needed. The case I already cleaned with regular furniture polish and it looks great. I love the magnetic feature.
Once I'm happy with all of it, i'll sharpen it to the factory 16 degree: i'll use 220/320 sandpaper, then take it to DMT stones: course, fine, extra fine, then back to sandpaper, 1,500, 2k, 2500, 3k, and then 5k - strop w/ white rouge and that should take care of it. This will be one of my more challenging projects, but I've had great results in the past.
One question I do have for you guys is this: Since the shun is already mirror polished, but has some scratches/light rusting pits - should I use say 3 or 5k sandpaper, then start the buff or just go right to the buffing? I think just going to the buffing would be best, and emery with a good wheel is pretty effective.