2 easy newb questions

D

dperk

Joined
May 16, 2006
Messages
132
I have 2 questions for you makers that are able to grind a blade correctly (new and seasoned):


1. About how much steel length did you go through before you were able to cut a good blade? I have about 10' on hand to feed the GIB.

2. To help minimize my initial waste, is there a size or shape that is easier than the rest? I ground my first 8" piece just to fool around and get used to the feel. I made a simple drop point but, screwed up the plunges and made the edge to thin. I then attempted to "feel" what a false edge was like and totally ruined the top half! Next I ground what was left down to pairing knife size but the bevels were too deep and up over the spine. I approached this as an exercise to see how the machine and steel felt. I seem to understand and learn from what I'm reading better when I know how it actually feels. I plan to attempt my 2nd grind and If there is a shape or size that is better, I'd like to try that next. Also, everyone is very right when they say you learn a lot from your first time up to the grinder!

Thanks in advance for any input!
-darren
 
dperk,
I am not seasoned but I will share what worked for me. First toss out the idea that your not going to waste. Every maker I know has a drawer, box or, woods full of screw ups. It is part of the process. Its like a musician or athlete. Yes there are some who get it right the first time but most have to practice a ton before they get it right. Second, if your 10' is good knife steel and you don't want to destroy it all while learning, then try working with non knife steel to practice on (scrimmage or preseason). I went through about 10' of mild steel just to figure out grind lines and plunges. Once that made sense and I felt I could get that part right, I went to the knife steel. I still screwed up some of that and I still screw up. The size you started with is not a bad size, and I find drop points worked for me pretty well. Your first knife that you finish will be great until you make another, and by your tenth you will look back at your first and probably put it in a drawer. Just look at all the screwups as paying your dues, don't hesitate just keep on making metal dust.
I do think one trick that can help you though is get or make a file guide. I started by filing in the plunge, and set the angle of the grind with the file, and then go to the grinder. That is the only trick that helped me start. The practice and the screw ups are what have taught me the most.
Good luck and have fun,
Dan
 
DanCo said:
dperk,
I am not seasoned but I will share what worked for me. First toss out the idea that your not going to waste. Every maker I know has a drawer, box or, woods full of screw ups. It is part of the process. Its like a musician or athlete. Yes there are some who get it right the first time but most have to practice a ton before they get it right. Second, if your 10' is good knife steel and you don't want to destroy it all while learning, then try working with non knife steel to practice on (scrimmage or preseason). I went through about 10' of mild steel just to figure out grind lines and plunges. Once that made sense and I felt I could get that part right, I went to the knife steel. I still screwed up some of that and I still screw up. The size you started with is not a bad size, and I find drop points worked for me pretty well. Your first knife that you finish will be great until you make another, and by your tenth you will look back at your first and probably put it in a drawer. Just look at all the screwups as paying your dues, don't hesitate just keep on making metal dust.
I do think one trick that can help you though is get or make a file guide. I started by filing in the plunge, and set the angle of the grind with the file, and then go to the grinder. That is the only trick that helped me start. The practice and the screw ups are what have taught me the most.
Good luck and have fun,
Dan
Click to expand...

I would somewhat disagree. I agree that starting with some mild steel would be good, but a lot of it would be a bit of a waste. for your own personal use, then plunge lines don't have to be perfect and bevels don't have to line up. when you sell them and give them away, then yes, the knives have to be perfect. howoever, other than that, just fine works.... just fine.
 
I think learning straight grind lines like on a warncliff or tanto style blades are a good place to start and then progress to learning the feel of an upsweep at the tip. It is still satisfying because you are making a style of knife that is very usable and desireable to have and learning/perfecting grinding at the same time.
Jim
 
I would also recommend against practicing on mild steel. Presumably, you're interested in making knives because you like knives, and learning on real blade steel will leave you with real knives. You'd have to screw up in a way I can't even imagine to end up with something that completely isn't a knife in the end. I've got knives that I made early on that are complete POS but I still loved them at the time (and still do). I felt good having a gross, ugly knife that I made myself, and I wouldn't have felt as good about myself if I had something that was gross and ugly but wasn't even a knife.

- Chris
 
Yup, you're going to waste *a*lot.* It's going to happen, it's going to suck, and it's going to happen until you either die or stop making knives. A good friend from years back had 20 or 30 years behind a grinder. He was pushing himself to finish up a commission job at 12:30 in the morning. He still has that knife with the 5 finger-divots in the handle waiting for his own Count Rugen to arrive...
 
Ah Count Rugen, there was a great book. I drew out a handle yesterday on a practice knife and placed 5 finger-divots in it. After a couple minutes I figured it out and corrected it.

I've got 9 knives that I have numbered, 4 unfinished, 8-10 practice knives out of junk steel, and about 6' feet of double edged, double ended blades. Grind one side, flip it over and grind the back side. Flip it lengthwise and grind another edge, then over and grind a 4th. No tangs, just edges. Then you get to practice your HT on a both ends. Occasionally you clay coat a spine and see if you can get a hamon. Another 6-10' and I might feel confident that I could grind an even blade according to the initial design on the first try. For now, there's still a lot of extra material left in for when I mess up. I still grind the tip 1/4" longer than I designed and grind it to a sharp point last.

As for mild steel vs. blade steel, 1080 is pretty cheap, plus you get to practice your HT.
 
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