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#2 finished
- Thread starter Rob Cole
- Start date
- Joined
- Jul 13, 2009
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- 21,855
It may be more comfortable and useful with some curves.
Reading this helped me
http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=713812
I look at this as a good example
(keeping in mind Stacy's comments below...)
Reading this helped me
http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=713812
I look at this as a good example
(keeping in mind Stacy's comments below...)
Last edited:
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- Feb 16, 2010
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- 3,668
OK, tell us about it. What kind of steel, purpose, etc.
Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith
ilmarinen - MODERATOR
Moderator
Knifemaker / Craftsman / Service Provider
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- Aug 20, 2004
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- 38,482
A suggestion for the next knife;
The bolster drop (heel piece at the plunge) will be a problem down the line. As you repeatedly sharpen the knife, it will dish out in front of the plunge. There is no functional purpose for the plunge to leave a big chunk of steel behind the edge. If used as a kitchen slicer, you also can't slice past the center of the blade without the edge raising up from the cutting board. I know you see a lot of such plunges, but you will have a much nicer ( and easier to sharpen) knife if you grind it so the plunge is right at the blade end and makes the edge go right off the knife. On my cutlery pieces, I grind the bevel straight down the tang ( as in a katana).
You can round the sharp corner a tad if you worry about nicking your finger ( that is what I do to all my professional cutlery).
Dave Martell gave an excellent presentation on kitchen and professional cutlery at Ashokan last week. He said that a chef will send him any knife with such an edge ( to haver it re-ground and removed), or won't buy it in the first place.
Besides the sharpening and aesthetic issues, there is another problem with sharp plunge lines.....stress risers. The blade can end up with a weakness from the quench at that point.Think about where most of the knives you have broken over the years broke.....at the plunge.
1234567689 linked to the other problems with the shape.
http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=713812
The bolster drop (heel piece at the plunge) will be a problem down the line. As you repeatedly sharpen the knife, it will dish out in front of the plunge. There is no functional purpose for the plunge to leave a big chunk of steel behind the edge. If used as a kitchen slicer, you also can't slice past the center of the blade without the edge raising up from the cutting board. I know you see a lot of such plunges, but you will have a much nicer ( and easier to sharpen) knife if you grind it so the plunge is right at the blade end and makes the edge go right off the knife. On my cutlery pieces, I grind the bevel straight down the tang ( as in a katana).
You can round the sharp corner a tad if you worry about nicking your finger ( that is what I do to all my professional cutlery).
Dave Martell gave an excellent presentation on kitchen and professional cutlery at Ashokan last week. He said that a chef will send him any knife with such an edge ( to haver it re-ground and removed), or won't buy it in the first place.
Besides the sharpening and aesthetic issues, there is another problem with sharp plunge lines.....stress risers. The blade can end up with a weakness from the quench at that point.Think about where most of the knives you have broken over the years broke.....at the plunge.
1234567689 linked to the other problems with the shape.
http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=713812
Zaph1, it is 1095, 7 inches long, split right down the middle between blade and handle. Bone scales. It wasn't really designed for a specific purpose.
12345678910 and bladsmth, thanks for the link and suggestions. The plunge issue will be corrected on the next one.
Next steps for me are ordering some 1084 so I can heat treat myself, and building a small heat treat oven. And of course research research research in between.
12345678910 and bladsmth, thanks for the link and suggestions. The plunge issue will be corrected on the next one.
Next steps for me are ordering some 1084 so I can heat treat myself, and building a small heat treat oven. And of course research research research in between.
- Joined
- Dec 4, 2001
- Messages
- 3,824
Sure looks a lot better than my second. Looks like you've got solid construction down,(something I had trouble with at the start) next one work on the shape a bit and rounding and conturing everything to make it fit the hand a little better. Make what and how you want, but remember there are no straight lines in nature. It takes time and practice, and every blade will get better. Looks like your off to a great start.