2 JKM's and Replacement Danglers (pics!)

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Knifemaker
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Well I wanted to show pics of the neem JKM I got recently from the DOTD. Its a sweetie. I made a new dangler sheath for it also. I tooled the leather with a ball peen hammer this time. It is neat looking I think. I really like the JKM. Its the only small knife I've ever seen with a 1/4" thick blade! It cuts too. I thought when I first saw it that it would suffer due to the thickness, but they're cutters, believe me. Anyway here they are.
 
cool!

the sheath entry isn't too small that that blade will nick it?

#
 
I love JKM's, and if I had any criticism at all towards 'em it would be the sheath they come with (haven't had one yet that my blade hasn't cut through the stitching eventually). You've remedied that quite stylishly, good work hoss. :thumbup:

Sarge
 
Thanks bros.

The opening is the appropriate size to hold the knife in there firmly. It'll get cut up over time of course, but not excessively. I do worry that the stitching on the edge side will eventually get cut, but thats down the road some. If I did it again I'd put some strategically placed rivets in there.
 
Looks great:):thumbup: I made one for one of my JKM's the other day. I guess it was more of a practice for practice sake sheath. The idea was to make one that would ride in my boot to rotate with my "Corporal" Sarge/KPH. However, the lil' Corporal is just too dang light and handy to get a lot of rotation with a heavier knife. It didn't turn out to be too bad of sheath though. Ugly, as usual, but it keeps the knife in place.

Jake
 
waterhouse said:
So you're the one who scarfed 'em up :)

That's great work on the sheath.

One of them I scarfed (neem).;) The other I e-mailed yangdu for before Christmas. JKM's are good.:thumbup:
 
I've seen that ball peen effect before...

Of course...he was still makin' a bunch of noise.
 
Nice work Andy! Those are great improvments for sure. I love the neem on that one.

Norm
 
aproy1101 said:
Well I wanted to show pics of the neem JKM I got recently from the DOTD. Its a sweetie. I made a new dangler sheath for it also. I tooled the leather with a ball peen hammer this time. It is neat looking I think. I really like the JKM. Its the only small knife I've ever seen with a 1/4" thick blade! It cuts too. I thought when I first saw it that it would suffer due to the thickness, but they're cutters, believe me. Anyway here they are.

Here is another small and THICK blade that I own...
Meet, The Bullant!!!
Bullant.jpg
 
Man thats a pretty knife. Just love the shape. May try something close to that soon as my first slab handled knife.:thumbup: ;)
 
Daddy has a good idea...I am getting a JKM here really soon (hopefully tomm!) and I plan on using kydex as a liner for it and the new sharpfinger sheath I am messing with right now...Should work and doesnt take that much more time and $$$




Andy you left or right handed?
 
I'm right handed. This is a dangler, so it doesn't matter/wasn't designed for any particular preference. I don't want a plastic liner in mine. I am going to learn to work with Kydex eventually, but I'm kinda old fashioned, and just like leather. I think on future models like this I'll have a thin welt in the edge area and a couple of rivets. Thickness is important to me and I don't want to add a layer of anything. Plus, so far I just find it totaly unnecessary. These danglers are made of 8-9 oz leather and that's pretty hefty.
 
aproy1101 said:
I'm right handed. This is a dangler, so it doesn't matter/wasn't designed for any particular preference. I don't want a plastic liner in mine. I am going to learn to work with Kydex eventually, but I'm kinda old fashioned, and just like leather. I think on future models like this I'll have a thin welt in the edge area and a couple of rivets. Thickness is important to me and I don't want to add a layer of anything. Plus, so far I just find it totaly unnecessary. These danglers are made of 8-9 oz leather and that's pretty hefty.

I would definitely give it a hot beeswax treatment... A good convex edge can cut through THICK leather like butter, and it being carried around your neck, over your chest, I would NOT like to see the result if you fell and it jammed itself through the sheath and into your chest...
 
aproy1101 said:
I don't want a plastic liner in mine. I am going to learn to work with Kydex eventually, but I'm kinda old fashioned, and just like leather.

Rawhide Andy, you can wet mold it to dang near any shape, and once it's dried good and hard you'll need a drill press to put stitching holes in it. Many old time Native American and early European American scabbards were buckskin over a rawhide inner sheath. If you dry it out good and then seal it to keep out any future moisture, it's very much like "natural Kydex". ;)

Then again, your sheath work is coming along fine, just adding a welt next go around should be all you need.

Sarge
 
jamesraykenney said:
I would definitely give it a hot beeswax treatment... A good convex edge can cut through THICK leather like butter, and it being carried around your neck, over your chest, I would NOT like to see the result if you fell and it jammed itself through the sheath and into your chest...


Good call JRC. That one has already been dipped in a beeswax, paraffin, mink oil and mineral oil bath for ~15 seconds. Its not quite as stiff as I had it before (paraffin and mineral oil) with this bath, and when I use it the dang garage smells like heven.
 
I mean Warning! Just remember to NEVER melt any wax over an open flame. Use a double boiler arrangement if at all possible. If your wax goes over its flash-point, you got your hands full. And water will make things worse. Keep a fire extinguisher handy.
 
I use a crock pot, so there is no open flame anywhere nearby. Plus I can do it in the shop. Thanks for the advice though I didn't know that about water.:thumbup:
 
There is a public information advert in the UK with chef Keith Floyd. They show a chip (fries) pan that is gently on fire, nothing spectacular, a bit of flame 6" above the pan. They (the fire brigade) add about a pint of water using a can on the end of a 40 foot pole. The resultant fireball rises about 30 FEET in the air. It has to be seen to be believed. The explanation is that the water sinks to the bottom and then turns immedately to steam, taking vapourised oil particles with it, which combust. The correct way to tackle an oil fire is to smother it. Use a metal lid in the case of a chip pan, an asbestos or glass fibre fire blanket or even a damp towel. Cover it, move away and leave it for 30 minutes.

A crock pot is good :)
 
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