Hello: I recently purcahsed an old Atlas horizontal milling machine in very nice shape...except I cannot, for the life of me, figure out how to remove the spindle. I have removed the draw bar..very easily. Normally I tap the spindle with a steel dowel and out she pops. Oh no...not this one..won't budge. Should I heat the business end(opposite draw bar) and try to remove. I'm thinking that the 50 yr old gunk, rust perhaps, have no desire to let go. Any thoughts out there? Thanks.
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#2 Morse Taper stuck
- Thread starter John L
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+1 That's what I would try first!
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Is there a slot in the spindle for a drift?
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Ditto on Teksec suggestion with one exception. Spray or squirt some Kroil on the inside top of the spindle and let it soak for a few hours. Should pop right out!
Nathan the Machinist
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Wait!
Mills with 40 tapers or R8 tapers usually require a little tap to budge the tool holder or collet free. But a Morris taper is a locking taper and can require a much larger tap. Hence Tinker's suggestion to look for a drift slot. I'd look for that slot and make some kind of drift key.
Some horizontal mills I've seen were built like a lathe with tapered spindle bearings or babit and bronze bearings and thrust washers. These will withstand a pretty stout whomp.
A lot of mills, however, use smaller, opposed radial ball bearings near the nose that run smooth, accurate, cool and quiet at the higher speeds that mills turn. This type of arrangement withstands high radial loads (as seen when milling), but can brindle the bearings if subjected to a strong axial whomp. Or you can lose your preload.
Take it easy whopping on that spindle. If you do find it necessary, find a way to support the spindle with something clamped down to your table to prevent the bearings from absorbing too much of the impact.
If the ass end of the spindle in internally threaded for a collet closer, you may be able to thread something into it from the back of the spindle to press on and uncork the collet.
Mills with 40 tapers or R8 tapers usually require a little tap to budge the tool holder or collet free. But a Morris taper is a locking taper and can require a much larger tap. Hence Tinker's suggestion to look for a drift slot. I'd look for that slot and make some kind of drift key.
Some horizontal mills I've seen were built like a lathe with tapered spindle bearings or babit and bronze bearings and thrust washers. These will withstand a pretty stout whomp.
A lot of mills, however, use smaller, opposed radial ball bearings near the nose that run smooth, accurate, cool and quiet at the higher speeds that mills turn. This type of arrangement withstands high radial loads (as seen when milling), but can brindle the bearings if subjected to a strong axial whomp. Or you can lose your preload.
Take it easy whopping on that spindle. If you do find it necessary, find a way to support the spindle with something clamped down to your table to prevent the bearings from absorbing too much of the impact.
If the ass end of the spindle in internally threaded for a collet closer, you may be able to thread something into it from the back of the spindle to press on and uncork the collet.
Well...I finally freed the mother up. I first sprayed a penetrating psray every place I could reach. Then let it sit overnight. Then gave it about a dozen firm raps with a 24 oz. ball pein hammer. Nuttin. I began to doubt it was a MT2 and threaded or something. One last attempt was going to happen after looking at the machine schematic drawings on the web. I heated the area with a propane torch as close to the wedged area as possible. Things started bubbling, smoke appeared, a frim rap again and voila...one arbor loose from taper. I cleaned things up, installed a knife, cut a nail nick, and PERFECTO!! Thanks for everyones' help.