2 x 72 Leather Stropping belt-- Is that a good idea?

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frankdelalla

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Jan 16, 2015
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I was thinking of getting 2x72-Leather Stropping Belt. Anyone use them and have any advice?

I was using a buffer to finish my sharpening, but it seems to mess up my scotch-brite finish. (Am I doing something wrong there?) I want to be able to quickly finish sharpening without messing anything else up.

Thanks!
 
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I've been trying one out on a couple of my test knives. I usually cut in my secondary bevels and sharpen on an EdgePro with a combination of diamond and waterstones. It is very time consuming so I started looking for a faster way. I set up a jig for my belt grinder that holds the blade at a consistent angle and allows me to do both sides easily. It is set up like the Tormek sharpening system. I have been trying different belts and have found that a 120 grit followed by a 15 micron and then the leather belt with black rouge works pretty well for producing nice clean, even results and a scary sharp blade. Seriously...don't even look at it wrong or it will cut you! Unfortunately, I'm finding that the edge is not holding up as well as my waterstone induced edge. I'm running the belts at a pretty slow speed but, I think the micro-edge is still getting too hot.

Bob
 
Thanks Bob!

Where in the process do you think the trouble is? Also, can you translate "15 micron" to "grit" for me? :-)
 
I am no expert in this area. I think it is the leather belt but, if I were finishing with a different belt I would blame it. I feel the final burr removal needs to be done under very controlled conditions. I've also experimented with using the 120 grit and the 15 micron (600grit) and then going to the waterstones and the longevity of the edge is much better. I have been satisfied with the results of this technique enough that I will most likely start using it on all my blades. It still saves me a lot of time and the results are the same as if I cut the secondary bevel completely in by hand. It is nowhere near as fast as the leather stropping belt but, for me, it's worth the extra time.

Bob
 
Ranger Bob , I would suggest not using the black compound , it is usually the courses grit compound . Try a green or red rouge .

I have a treated stitched buffing wheel loaded up with a green rouge to remove the burr . It just polished the very edge but leaves the 240 grit saw tooth behind it . I have had good feed back from my customers .
 
ONeill said:
Ranger Bob , I would suggest not using the black compound , it is usually the courses grit compound . Try a green or red rouge .

I have a treated stitched buffing wheel loaded up with a green rouge to remove the burr . It just polished the very edge but leaves the 240 grit saw tooth behind it . I have had good feed back from my customers .
Click to expand...

The stopping wheel from paper sharpening wheel kits works great for removing burrs. It's loaded with white jewelers rouge.
 
2X72 leather belts can only be used properly on VS grinders. They need to run dead slow or they will damage the edge. I use white rouge or red rouge on mine.

On an unregulated speed grinder a leather belt is both a poor choice and dangerous to use.
 
I use 15 micron belts and I believe they equal a 1200 grit. I use my buffer on a hard wheel loaded with green chrome compound to remove burrs after sharpening. I'm very happy with the results. The leather belt under power can over heat the edge if you aren't careful as Stacy mentioned.

Or you can strop by hand on a strip of leather.
 
I also want to buy Stropping Leather Belt . ,where recommended seller ?
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ONeill said:
Ranger Bob , I would suggest not using the black compound , it is usually the courses grit compound . Try a green or red rouge .

I have a treated stitched buffing wheel loaded up with a green rouge to remove the burr . It just polished the very edge but leaves the 240 grit saw tooth behind it . I have had good feed back from my customers .
Click to expand...

Thanks ONeill. That sounds like a good way to go for me. Would you mind pointing me to some wheels that are similar to what you use? I'm looking at a bunch of stuff and I'm pretty confused about what to get.
 
I'll save you some more money.

Go down to the local thrift store and look at the wall of belts. Find a genuine leather belt that is about 1.5-2" wide. They rarely charge much for them ... most of the time a buck or so.

Take it home and sand the back "flesh" side on a 120 grit belt. Glue the belt to a 24"X3" board with the sanded side up and cut the excess off. Charge with any polish you like - green chrome, red rouge, matchless white. After sharpening a blade by your preferred method, strop one long stroke on each side two times ( side A, side B, A,B). It should be hair popping sharp if you did your work right before stropping.
 
frankdelalla said:
Thanks ONeill. That sounds like a good way to go for me. Would you mind pointing me to some wheels that are similar to what you use? I'm looking at a bunch of stuff and I'm pretty confused about what to get.
Click to expand...

they are yellow in color , they are a treated and stitched every 1/2 from arbor hole to the end . Check with some buffing supply companies , maybe caswell or pops knife supply . They are out there
 
Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith said:
I'll save you some more money.

Go down to the local thrift store and look at the wall of belts. Find a genuine leather belt that is about 1.5-2" wide. They rarely charge much for them ... most of the time a buck or so.

Take it home and sand the back "flesh" side on a 120 grit belt. Glue the belt to a 24"X3" board with the sanded side up and cut the excess off. Charge with any polish you like - green chrome, red rouge, matchless white. After sharpening a blade by your preferred method, strop one long stroke on each side two times ( side A, side B, A,B). It should be hair popping sharp if you did your work right before stropping.
Click to expand...

An alternate means is to sharpen and then polish the edge on a belt grinder to a reasonable angle for the intended use, all the way to about a 15 micron belt. Don't get the edge too hot while doing this. Then knock the wire edge off using a firm (spiral stitched cotton) buffing wheel.

Mike L.
 
I use a leather belt with white rouge running slow. Have some machinist angles that I magnet down to the table after lining the table up 90 degrees to the platen. I use the 22 degree angle and zip zip I have a mirror edge.
 
If you are afraid of ruining your edge on a 2x72 or 1x30 with a leather belt, then learning proper technique will solve that problem.

We all grind post heat and learn how not to over heat the blade the same goes with the leather belt.

You are only knocking off the burr, learn to do it correctly and you will be fine, it literally takes only a few seconds to knock off the burr with a leather belt or buffing wheel and it works great.
 
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