#2

R

Rob Cole

Joined
Jul 18, 2010
Messages
222
knife11111.jpg


7" overall, blade and handle split right down the middle. 1095. About 90% of initial shaping and deburring is complete.

I think it will end up as a cord wrapped utility, though the blade's curve may be a bit too much.

I doubt that my heat treat setup will be up and running by the time this is ready, so I'll be shipping it off.

Lessons learned so far - I think this will be the last one I try before I get a bandsaw. You can see where the tip was overheated by my grinder, and finishing the inside if the handle area with a hacksaw was not fun.

Critiques are always welcome :eek:
 
Rather than a hacksaw, if you have a common rock type bench grinder, you can mount a metal cutting abrasive power saw blade on it. You scribe out the shape you want, then cut a series of straight in cuts, close together, just a tad shy of your scribe, then come back and remove all the tabs you have created with more cuts. It's a nasty job, but almost as fast as a bandsaw, and a whole lot easier than a hacksaw. I've shaped 1/4" blades this way. Don't worry about your blade tip. You have done no damage.
 
Here's a quick mock up I did after finishing most of the sanding.

Capture.jpg


I will be reducing the width of the blade some, I'm not happy with the semi-final shape yet.

As for the grinding suggestion, right now I'm using an angle grinder. It wasn't a problem with my first knife, but this one is using a wider steel bar and deep handle cutout, so I ran out of room quickly.
 
heating the tip up grinding *before Heat Treat* no problem
I get the steel glowing hot while forging before heat treat, and so does anyone else who uses a hammer to shape their blades. After heat treat is when you do not want to get your blade hotter than you can hold in your bare hand. You have done no damage other than freaking yourself out unnecessarily

relax,

-Page
 
i like the blade shape, if you grind it good and thin it looks like it would make an excellent slicer.
 
TAPER.jpg


Working out a little of the taper tonight. I had to stop due to lighting issues, hopefully I'll get off work tomorrow before the edge of dark.

I've read here that the edge needs to be left a little thicker prior to heat treat. I am assuming this applies to the tip as well?
 
I've melted the tip on several blades. I try to leave extra sacrificial material there now but that presents its own problems when you have to remove it after hardening the blade.

LonePine
AKA Paul Meske, Wisconsin
 
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