20" Sirupati & 15" BAS - combo test

[Daniel Koster]

Test: Path Clearing
(this is my favorite test)

For those not familiar with path clearing tests here's an explanation:

3 levels of work:
- Clearing overgrowth
- Widening/straightening the path
- Clean up

I've put the BAS through this test before (against a 13.5" village model), so I thought I'd see how it measured up running 2nd position along side the Sirupati.


Test #1
Clearing overgrowth

This time, the test involved clearing out small branches that had grown over the path, mostly at chest height or above. The BAS and Sirupati faired pretty equally in cutting ability, but not in reach. I found that using the Sirupati made the job easier, however, it required more strength and wore my hand out more. The BAS was quicker and cut just as well, so I stuck with the BAS until I needed more reach/strength to clear the branches.

Test #2
Widening/straightening

Not too much involved this time around. Just weeds, actually. Most of the work was done in test #3.


Test #3
Clean up

This time the test was to take a fallen tree and turn it into small lumber, suitable for a small, evening fire.

A 3" tree had been blown over and was blocking the path. I immediatly reached for the Sirupati to finish the job. I downed the tree and began removing the smaller branches. The Sirupati required too much leverage to remove the smaller branches quickly, so I moved to the BAS until I got to thicker branches (over 1"). Once the tree had been stripped of the smaller branches, the Sirupati was used to chop the remainder into a neat, small pile of lumber. I used a stump as background to do the chopping.

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I spent about a half an hour doing the work. I enjoyed being able to have both khukuris with me. I found that I would start out with the Sirupati for most everything and then move to the BAS when the work became more tedious. That's not to say that the Sirupati couldn't handle it, just that I had the option and made the choice. I've seen workers in the fields use 32" machettes with as much precision and delicacy as I used with the 15" BAS, so I know it can be done.

That said, if I had to choose just one - I would take the Sirupati. Why? Because even though I moved to the BAS for most of the work, it really could have been done by the Sirupati. Doing the heavier work with just the BAS would actually have outweighed any time/energy I had saved using it for smaller work.

Wear & Tear

No soreness
A few scratches/splinters from the nasty thorns, branches, etc.
No extra caluses
No abnormal wear/roughness
Both blades cleaned up just fine afterwards

However, consider this: about halfway through, I got a splinter in my right hand, middle finger, middle segment. I didn't really think anything of it until I picked the Sirupati back up and started swinging it again. Over the course of time using the Sirupati, I had started to subconsciously grip it lower and lower on the handle until the butt was literally in my palm - probably gave me better leverage and control over tip movement. Well, after getting the splinter, I quickly realized I had made that change in grip because my middle finger was right over the raised part of the handle - ouch! Seemed like every stroke reminded me of that splinter!

This never happened with the BAS, which is less tip-heavy. I was able to keep my grip in the normal position.

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Overall, a fun experience. Especially when I kept having to tell my 2-yr-old to "stay back", "move over here", "put that down", etc., etc.

Bet the fieldworkers never have to deal with that...

Conclusion:

The Sirupati and BAS make a great combo for clearing paths and for light wood chopping work. Use the Sirupati for heavy work, or for its long reach. Move to the BAS for lighter, clearing work.

Dan

 

[Bill Martino]

Another good report from the field and thanks.

 

[Daniel Koster]

Nice thing is this: it was more fun than any machete I've ever used. Although, I don't think I'd use a khukuri to cut grass...

 

[Pappy]

I just wanted to ask you one question when using any of the Khuks. Do you get some wrist action close to the last part of the swing with the Siru.
It seemed to me that with any of the khuks. That I had to concentrate on every swing with any of the knives until it got to be a natural part of the swing with the blade. I finally got so I start the swing with the wrist cocked back just a bit ready to whip that blade a little faster just before hitting the target. Right now I am trying to figure out if the shape of the blade is what takes advantage of the wrist movement. It doesn't seem to help that much with the Machete I have or the Italian Farmers Knife. The Italian Knife is an inside curve too but different. Reminded me of a light weight Brush Hook

 

[Spinnerblade]

Excellent field report Pendentive. I was always looking for comparative use of khukries when I was shopping for my first khuk. Patrick

 

[Bill Martino]

It gives you a good idea of which tool for which job -- good report.

 

[Daniel Koster]

Originally posted by Pappy
I just wanted to ask you one question when using any of the Khuks. Do you get some wrist action close to the last part of the swing with the Siru.

I have been playing racquetball for 13 years. Add to that the 2 years in Guatemala learning (amongst other things, of course) from the natives how to cut grass with a machette - both tall and short grass - done to within a 1/2" of the ground.

It's not a matter of whether or not I use wrist action, it's "Would I ever be able to stop doing it?"

I've tried to learn tennis - it gets real ugly...

 

[Pappy]

OK, that's cool. Once I caught on or maybe just my way of getting that whip. It sure seemed to cut better and a bit more accurate it seems.

 

[Daniel Koster]

When we would cut grass - it was all wrist. You would try to keep your hand close to your same-side foot, in an ice-pick grip - in this case, palm forward - while you rotated the blade.

Two problems resulted from this technique:
1. every once in a while your wrist would "bind" and get thick with fluid (mostly cause you were working too hard) making it difficult to get a full swing.

2. the more sweaty your hand is, the more likely you will lose your grip using a wrist-snap technique.

One solution we tried was to use a short lanyard to keep the blade in your hand. That only worked 1 out of 10 times, and the other 9 resulted in blade coming back at your leg out of control.

So, we ditched the lanyard and just kept our hands clean and dry with handkerchiefs the best we could.

Every once in a while, someone would lose their blade mid-swing and it would go flying off behind them 10-15 feet. So we learned where NOT to stand real quick and no-one ever got hurt.

 

[Rusty]

Thanks for good review.