20" Villager

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My 20" General Utility Villager has arrived! Wow, it's a LOT bigger than the WWII that I currently have. Initial test results on this blade are very favorable. The extra weight really helps splitting my wood for the stove. I'm anxiously awaiting my 20" Sirupati Villager...
On another note, I'm a newbie to the knife scene, and, being such have very little expertise in blade care/polishing. The Villager is a nice knife, but the polish isn't up to that of the WWII that I've got. The Chakma and Karda are, from what I've read, typical of Village models (not too pretty). I spent some time with sand-paper and a Dremel tool with some polishing compound to get the Chakma looking better, but still not where I want it to be. Any input about what grit of sand-paper to use, what type of polishing compound, etc. would be appreciated.
Can anyone make a suggestion? the Villager handle is nice, except for the butt. The butt of the handle, and the butt-cap are a little too sharp for me, if I slip my grip at all while chopping, I'm reminded of this painfully. Any suggestions are more than welcomed.

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'He's losin' it... (Words spoken about me by a visitor seeing me with my Khuk!)
Lucky for them I'm not...
 
I've been wondering what the tradeoffs are in spending less for a villager model than an HI. Looking at pictures I see the buttcaps on HI models are well rounded off and don't have edges where wood meets brass. Is it fair to assume Hi models are more comfortable to use?
 
OMRie,

I think the trade offs are in finish, as lefebvrj discovered, and in quality control. The village khukuris are inspected prior to purchase by HI, but HI personnel are not able to oversee all aspects of material selection and construction, as they are with HI models. The steel may come from various sources, but they are checked for adequate hardness. Hidden defects or partial tangs may slip by the HI check.

That said, Kami Sherpa or one of his experienced employees can probably do a much better QC check on the villagers than most of us could. The village models in general are of better quality, although not fit and finish, than khukuris made for the tourist trade. Most people would choose a khukuri made for tourists over a village khukuri, because the tourist khukuri is made to look good, while the villager is made to hold up under hard work.

I find the villagers to be equal in comfort to the standard HI lineup. I think they have a special mystique, coming from tiny smithys tucked away in the hills. The ones I have purchased from HI have been of excellent working quality and I do not hesitate to trust them. And they have the attraction of being unique.

Who knows, you might get a magical one made by an ancient Himalayan blacksmith. It could happen.

lefebvrj,

Get a file and file that point on the butcap down a little where it is poking you. It will be much more comfortable.

Kami Sherpa is going to try making some HI models with longer handles to better fit western hands. When that happens a lot of the buttcap poking problem should be solved. Then the HI’s with the long handles may indeed be more comfortable for westerners than the villagers.
 
Thanks for good information and sound advice.

Modify the handle to fit your hand and comfortably so. A layer of epoxy around the buttcap where it meets the wood will help.

The village models seldom have the finish seen on HI models but if you are up to the work you can finish them out and get them just as bright and shiny as energy will allow.

Generally the village models are very tough knifes.

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Uncle Bill
Himalayan Imports Website
Khukuri FAQ

 
I agree on the toughness, this seems to be a solid piece. I was splitting more oak last night. The particular piece was from the base of the tree, with a VERY irregular grain pattern. Usually 2-3 hits is all that it takes to split the logs that I'm working with. This one, however was stubborn. I solidly buried the blade about 4" into a 16" long section, then proceeded to slam the whole assembly onto my chopping stump. This is the action that did in the handle on my WWII. The Villager came out unscathed, I can't say that for the wood!!! It is definitely a different feel that the WWII though. Are these handles stained and/or sealed with anything? Just wondering...


Rob
 
Thanks Howard
smile.gif


I really like that villager 21 inch sirupati and I'm itching to buy it, but the wife says no knives till after Christmas
frown.gif
. Maybe Bill will have one left or maybe something even nicer will come along
smile.gif
))). Have a great Christmas guys!
 
I just recieved my 20" villager today and I was much impressed.I've handeled khukuris before but never one of this size. The only problem I'm suffering is the same one as everyone else. I took it out to my brothers house right after I got it and decided to clear some small trees for him. The khukurie preformed very well but I recieved a nice bite on the bottom of my palm from the buttcap. Oh, well as long as it can be fixed, no problem. I almost forgot. I know that this has been addressed before, but how do you re-attach the brass cap on the bottom of the sheath? Mine is already starting to come off. Thanks.

- D

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Where the lion's skin will not reach, you must patch it out with the fox's.

[This message has been edited by Vampire Hunter D (edited 15 December 1999).]
 
The village models have thinner buttcaps than HI models and they can be a pain. File the handle and buttcap down until it's comfortable and then put a layer of epoxy around the area where buttcap and handle meet. This makes for a more comfortable grip.

------------------
Uncle Bill
Himalayan Imports Website
Khukuri FAQ

 
:
I have had the same problem and also with the horn shrinking a bit and leaving the burr edge of the brass that was next to the horn showing.
This edge can be as sharp as the khuk since it was finished even with the horn to begin with.

After filing the butt cap to a nice radius on each side I then Very Carefully put the Corner of the file right at the intersection of the horn and brass....
( Preferably you will have the khuk in a vise to keep it steady.)
....then slowly start filing a small groove there.Take it all the way around putting a nice chamfer on both the brass and horn,bearing in mind that the horn is softer than the brass.
I have a buffing wheel on my grinder and it's no big deal to polish mine out afterwards.
When you are done there will be a nice looking groove around the whole butt cap.Both edges will be very smooth and this takes care of any more shrinkage of the horn and any burrs that would be on the brass.

The reason I say "vise" and "very carefully" is that when I done my 18"AK I was careful,but didn't have it locked down.I have a slight variation on one side where the file got into the horn a bit too much when it slipped on me.

For those of you without a buffing wheel or polisher like a Dremel you can use progressivly fine grits of paper to about 400 grit and then use Brasso or something similar on it.
This is a permanent fix that I really like.It sorta makes the butt cap look a bit thicker than it actually is.Also gives a bit more decoration to the handle and makes it look very well finished.

Another tip for anyone with humidity changes and or into hot and cold environments like from the warm house to the cold woodpile.

If you have wood handles and/or modify them to fit your hand...Be Sure And Rub As Much Linseed Oil Into It That It CAN HOLD.
Let it set for about 30 minutes and wipe it off.Do it Immediately after Bringing it Into The House!

I have found that it's very important to do this the Hard Way.
I was modifying a Wooden Khukuri handle that was quite a bit too large for me and had taken it down almost to where I wanted it.It has been very humid here and I was working on it for quite some time outside in the damp.

I Didn't Oil it when I brought it back into the Warm DRY house and the wood was very well seasoned and Very Dry..
I took it back out today to do a little fine tuning before I put the rings back into it and put the oiled finish on it and found it _Cracked!!
frown.gif


It wasn't so bad that I couldn't fix it and if needed I can always make another,but it did aggravate me,because I know better and didn't think or Do Better.
I don't think anyone else has had this problem,but it is definitely Good Preventive Mainanance!!

Just a friendly tip from the Oklahoma Indin Khukuri Repair Service.
smile.gif


PS All good tips and advice from the others.

I needed to come back here and make my post a bit clearer.
There is _No Way_ that I consider the handle cracking the fault of H.I. or the kami that made my Khukuri.
By doing _The Major Reshaping_I_ _Created the Stresses_ that caused the handle to crack.
If I had of left it as it was I believe it would have lasted many generations in my family.

I just didn't want anyone to think the wooden handles were not good.They have served the Nepali's well for Hundreds of years and I imagine they suffer much worse climatic changes and we know they have Much Harder use in Nepal.

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>>>>---¥vsa---->®

If you mix milk of magnesia with vodka and orange juice do you get a phillips screwdriver?

Khukuri FAQ




[This message has been edited by Yvsa (edited 16 December 1999).]
 

I belive that part of my original question was buried. Thanks for the tips about the buttcap, by the way. Another thing that I wanted to know was, how do you re-attach the brass gaurd on the tip of the sheath when it comes off? Thanks.

- D


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Where the lion's skin will not reach, you must patch it out with the fox's.
 
One thing that hasn't been mentioned here, or it it has, needs to be repeated! Tape that edge! You may think it is dull and won't bite you...but....
Whenever working on any knife, but especially a khukuri, the minute or two it takes to cover that edge with tape is well worth it. None of us can regenerate fingers, and blood can rust a good blade.

Of course, like most other things, I learned this the hard way..


--Mike L



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Real men ride Moto Guzzis!
 
:
Mike you have that Exactly Right.
I have taken to dulling the edge with a file or stone to about 1/64" when I am working on one that's a major job.I also use Duct tape instead of masking tape and I use at least 3 layers depending on just how sharp the blade is.The Duct tape is much less apt to cut through than the masking tape.

Buffing a blade out to specs is needlesly to say the most hazardous
job of all!
KEEP BOTH HANDS ON THE BLADE at ALL TIMES.
Another thing to do is do it when someone is in the house or shop with you,but not in the same room.

This is one job that you Must Stay Focused on Completely.A Moments Inattention can cost you more than a lost finger even If Taped.

Remember the Flying Khukuri that got loose in the shop?
I still shudder over that one!!

When I worked in Southern Cal a good friend of many of the shop guys that worked in another shop was killed by a 5/32" piece of brass when he thought the machine was empty and he pulled back the stock tube.About 5 inches of the brass spinning at 3,500 rpm broke off and went fight through his heart.He died instantly.
It doesn't take something big to cost you your life.
This happened because of several foolish reasons like most accidents.
I like many others had been very lucky.I think all of us had pulled that same stunt some time or another.I only did it Once and had a 3/8" piece of aluminium fly off.That was when I was still an apprentice.
Scared the Hell Out Of Me!!!

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>>>>---¥vsa---->®

If you mix milk of magnesia with vodka and orange juice do you get a phillips screwdriver?

Khukuri FAQ


 
I often fold a strip of cardboard over the edge and tape it on. I trust that a little more than a few layers of tape.



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-Cougar Allen :{)
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This post is not merely the author's opinions; it is the trrrrrruth. This post is intended to cause dissension and unrest and upset people, and ultimately drive them mad. Please do not misinterpret my intentions in posting this.
 
I've learned already, in my rather short lifetime, that one should always take heed to the mistakes that others make, because you will most definately not live to make them all yourself.
 
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