Keeping rubbing it in. Not much longer for the rabble. So this one is lighter, thinner and whatnot?
by weight, it IS lighter. which is interesting, as it's a wee touch longer (pommel).
i've held the phosphate (black) Cincinnati model up directly to the new model (prototype), and they're very nearly exactly the same from eyeballing. i'd have to take the handles off, and trace both out (as i did with the final production Magnum camps) and compare all the generations. haven't done that yet, since there's no final version in my hand
the new one is a touch thinner, with the *PROTO* being about .200 vs .240-.250 given variations. i don't know where the final version is at yet.
warrior models has a swedge at the tip, instead of a flat for hammering and easy of batoning. the new model has a swedge! so, a touch of the warrior there. will make it more pointy, as i'm sure some of its new intended use will be assisting people in places where lots of plant/tree cutting will be required

plus potentially poking stuff.
i would rather have the hammer tip myself, better for batoning, but then, i don't baton a lot when i don't have to. it would make the tip more comfy for a draw knife though. okay, fine, be careful, wear gloves
as has been observed, the line through the bolts is way out of line with the "sweet spot" area, as found with many khuks. since Ethan advocates a slightly different technique with this knife, than typical for khuks, and definitely for straight blades, one will just have to adapt, and learn (snap cuts esp) if one wants to get the most use out of this. the BK5 Magnum Camp requires a bit of an adjustment for some people. esp with rope cutting. it's not a brute force tool like some might be used to. we shall see.
this model also bring back the very high grinds of the original models.
here's a nice clean prototype to look at:
having used a proto around Ethan's property for a bit, i find it's pretty bitey... feels a little different than i'm used to, and i was tired, and dead on my feet. not good conditions for testing :> i think i had a fresh enough edge, but that's another thing to do: convex it. first thing i'm doing when i get a user to play with, is beat the factory edge down (if i can), and then convex it and best that down (doubt i can). i used the worksharp tool to put a convex on my 25-30 YO CinCinn model with black phosphate, and well, just for laugs, batoned a few oak logs. with knots. beat that good. no damage, or change. even to the coating. phosphate is TOUGH. sigh. love that coating
well, carry on :>