21" Gelbu Special, HI Bowie Tests, Evaluations

Some may remember the 21" GS made by Sanu that Bill put up as a UBDOTD. It is everything he said it was and more. I too, can not say enough good things about this khukuri. Thanks again Uncle Bill.

This khukuri has a distinctive sabre-like feel, and speaks "Show me your enemies, but I'll do the chores if I HAVE to". I really feel that even at the first meeting, your khukuris tell you what they are best at if you listen carefully. My tests of the GS will reflect exactly that.

For those familiar with the hanging water jug test, the GS passed with flying colors (not water). 2" (approx.) diameter pre-soaked bamboo cuts were clean, smooth, and effortless, showing excellent grain separation with no fraying. This is the sharpest khukuri right out of the scabbard I have ever seen. Sanu has really made a comfortable chiruwa style handle, and the light colored "hill oak" is developing a beautiful honey color from the oils from my hands. The fit to the scabbard is also the best I've seen, the scabbard only having one problem- the karda had cut a slit in the side. This is covered by the frog though, and a strip of black leather and some leather glue will fix it. The karda and chakma are well executed, feel good in the hand, and perform their utility roles perfectly.

The HI Bowie is also made by Sanu. Bill said it was a heavier one. For anyone interested, this knife is strikingly similiar to the Indian bhuj (see "Swords and Hilt Weapons", page 197). I have decided that although Sanu probably didn't know it at the time, he has made just about the perfect "en suite" combination for just about any task with the GS and the HIB. The HIB was also very sharp right out of the scabbard. The balance is excellent, with the edge geometry reflecting efficiency in slicing and cutting, in addition to medium chopping. The knife feels much lighter than I thought it would be due to the great fullering, tapered blade and tang, and balance. This knife speaks the same to me as the GS so it got the same test model with the same results. It also went into the kitchen though and performed about as well as my professional grade 10" chefs knife- like I said, it came sharp with a versatile edge profile.

The handle retainer on the scabbard's belt loop was coming loose so I removed it- I didn't see a future for it anyway. I really like this scabbard design- the blade locks in but draws quickly with no binding.
The rig has a slight rearward cant making for an easy, rapid presentation from right side carry.

This design will do anything a finely made large bowie can do, and just as well.

The edges on both knives were unchanged by testing, and required no maintenance other than cleaning and oiling.

Sanu has really impressed me, and please Bill, pass along my compliments to him.

Finn

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"To know and to act are one."



[This message has been edited by Finnean (edited 10-09-2000).]
 
This is an addendum to my original post topic.

For those who are unfamiliar with this testing style and wish to use bamboo as a test medium for their blades, and are lucky enough to have a veritable year round souce such as we have in South Central Texas here are some tips:

To anchor the bamboo you can hammer a three inch diameter steel pipe in the ground about two feet, with roughly two feet exposed. Old fashioned rubber or plastic door stops make a good way to secure the bamboo inside the pipe.

Use the greenest plants you can find, preferalby at least two inches in diameter.
These should be cut to the desired length and a sharpened hardwood dowel (a piece of rebar will do in a pinch) driven through the pieces to open up the interior chambers to allow entry of water for hydration. You should soak the pieces for at least 24 hours (longer if the bamboo is older/dryer). I use a 42 gallon garbage can. Be sure you can cover everything properly to keep the whole process as clean as possible.

It is important to rinse and clean the bamboo inside and out, and whatever you are soaking it in to remove dirt - dirt or sand will scratch your finish and unnecessarily dull your edge. The bamboo itself when properly prepared will not damage or unnecessarily dull your edge. It will provide an excellent index as to you and your blades performance.

The exposed ends of pieces you have cut should be smooth, have a consistant angle, with no fraying at the edges.
For instance- fraying at the edges indicates 1) a dull blade 2) the blades plane was off axis relative to the direction of your cut 3) body movement and follow through need work.

Cutting bamboo well will teach you how to cut anything more efficiently, with less effort, with better blade control.

Of utmost importance is safety. You do this in a measured, calculated, careful fashion. You must always be aware of where everyone in your vicinity is at all times and know how this medium acts when you attempt to cut it.

I hope this is helpful for those looking for a way to measure and improve their ability to use the khukuri in a safe and efficient manner. Of course this will be "old news" to many, but it is offered in the spirit of regard.

Finn

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"To know and to act are one."



[This message has been edited by Finnean (edited 10-09-2000).]
 
:
Finn we have a small river cane up here that seldom grows over 5/8"-3/4" in dia.,extra large. If a person were to take a bundle of these and tie them together would that work as well?
Didn't the Japanese test some of their swords on bundles like these or was that the straw?

It grows pretty clean and is the same cane the Cherokee used to make their famous baskets from. The cane was gathered and then thin, about 1/4"-3/8", pieces were cut from the sides and trimmed of the sharp edges. They were then rolled in coils and put up to dry until needed. When a basket needed to be made the coils were soaked until pliable and the basket was woven. Some were made flat, with sides about 2" high or so, and had holes left intentionaly in them for cleaning hominy when the corn was soaked in lye water made from hardwood ashes.
These baskets could last many years they were so tough!!

I have made some really nice sounding higher pitched Flutes from these as well.
biggrin.gif


If these could be used in a bundle that would make a really formidable test for the khukuris or any other blade like the HI Katana.
I wouldn't know how many to use though. Suggestions?

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>>>>---¥vsa---->®

"I would rather have a bottle in front of me than a frontal lobotomy."

........unknown, to me anyway........

Khukuri FAQ
Himalayan Imports Website
 
Hi Yvsa,

My first suggestion is don't.

I have never used bundled bamboo because of reports of it damaging blades.
The technical reason for this as I understand it goes like this:

The edge of the blade passing through the bundle encounters uneven resistance as it cuts through the individual pieces creating an irregular rippling effect. In other words different areas of the edge are meeting resistance and cutting at a given instant. This creates micro flexing and vibration of the steel along different points on the edge, potentially leading to cracking, chipping, and even flexing the temper right out of the edge, leading to weeping and gnashing of teeth.

One or three-quarter inch bamboo and even smaller, while not providing as much resistance as larger diameter plants will still give you an excellent index as to your technique.

The traditional challenge uses hydrated tatami mats made of rice straw wrapped around a bamboo core to simulate you know what. If you decide to do this, learn to make tatami mats! The new ones are way expensive, and even though you can acquire used ones (not cheap either), it is not recommended as they have probably been impregnated with various particulate (see dirt).

I should have mentioned in the first post that after roughly six months of growth, bamboo begins to mineralize, the outer skin absorbing minerals from the soil, losing elasticity and becoming hard and brittle. This stuff IS NOT fun to try to cut. Harvested plants can be stored and rehydrated. Storage conditions should include maintaining just enough humidity to prevent too much drying, without promoting the growth of molds/fungus. You'll have to experiment.

Harvest plants under six months old and you'll be happier for it.

Keep Tootin'

Finn


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"To know and to act are one."



[This message has been edited by Finnean (edited 10-11-2000).]
 
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