25" Panawal AK with re-engineered handle

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Aug 6, 2000
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539
In a GH cleaning a few months ago, Craig offered a special deal on this rig with the Gurkha Steel video to boot. Trouble was, I wasn't in the market for a 2-hander. Needless to say, I overcame that small detail (not that I have a khukuri problem) and the deed got done, pronto. The understanding imparted by the video alone proved itself worth the price.

Amazingly powerful knife. Not knowing why, a big Sirupati seems too sword-like for me (not that there's anything wrong with that), but such an AK is more axe-like and still more of a khukuri. Well, I soon set out to cut some 3-4" pine branches supported by oak logs. While giving it my best effort, the rosewood scales slipped a little. The full width tang transmits a lot of shock to the hand at the butt end. Craig immediately offered to replace it, but instead I decided it was just time to play.

Common practice and advice was to squirt in some epoxy and carry on. Not me, I wanted to rebuild it. Thinking I would laminate 1/4" rosewood strips (obtained from a most excellent luthier), I bought a bunch of reject guitar fretboard blanks. But after drilling out the pins and removing the scales, it seemed best to remount the original handle.

After consulting a real knife maker, the plan shifted to use bolts. The 3 tang holes were drilled to be uniform, scales securely clamped in position, and all parts threaded together with a tap to the minimum size (7/16" in this case) to limit wood loss. 3 lengths of threaded steel bolt stock was precut almost all the way through (to save effort when cutting off later). The rust on the tang was wire brushed off and then roughed up with a file. The little bit of corrosion in the steel ferrule was cleaned and then treated with a rust-preventing paint. A generous amount of "Liquid Nails" was applied (industrial glue that's more flexible than epoxy), and the whole shootin' match screwed and clamped together for a few days. When it came time to finish cutting the bolt ends off, the job was so much easier due to the earlier cuts. Some filing brought all the edges together again.

Before resetting the buttcap, it seemed best to test. The seasoned white oak split with surprising ease, but the real challenge was cutting across the grain of 2-foot rounds. My hands found the results to be shocking, and I chopped until I couldn't take amy more punishment. After brushing and roughing up the inside of the buttcap, it's now clamped with more glue drying.

There's still more to be done and some little tricks were learned along the way, but it's gotta be one tough handle now. At least it looks like a khukuri again! The idea of threading scales and tang and bolting might even be a design improvement.

Forumites, what do you think? Will report later....Dan

[This message has been edited by Lt. Dan (edited 03-09-2001).]
 
Update time: Just unclamped the buttcap (chhapri), cut off the excess glue, and filed it all down together (I was worried that the clamp was cranked too tight and could've dented the chhapri, but it came out okay). The flair in the butt was too much for my taste, so the point on the spine side got filed down sime 5/16", and the blade side point brought down about 1/8". Looking from the bottom, it's more rounded, sort of like a Cheetlang, but the handle itself isn't so flared.

So far it's looking good (has a typical khukuri shape, but on the big side) and feeling great. Next is to glue the diamond shaped washer (fulo) in place, tap the tang end over, and refinish the handle. I don't think I'll feel relaxed about this project until it's 100% done and it's abused me some more on the oak. Tiger by the tail, tail wagging the dog...take your pick.

Maybe I've watched Gurkha Steel just enough to be dangerous. Yes, forumites, this is something everybody can try at home....Dan
 
When attatching the diamond-shaped washer (fulo), the decision was made to glue it (after cleaning and roughing the contacting surfaces) and beat the tang over to act as a clamp. This turned out to be a good idea (instead of clamping as a separate step), because the buttcap (chhapri) got snugged down even more. The fulo isn't as thick as the chhapri, but the geometry of the diamond shape seems to add considerable strength, as a little more glue that hand't quite hardeded (after 2 1/2 days of drying) oozed out and what little gap left that had been filled by the glue between the wood just disappeared.

I hadn't considered how well the butt end is engineered. Very simple, but more functional than it appears. Besides the cap being glued with laha, the fulo really applies some extra holding strength.

After some sanding with strips of 220 grit paper, the first coat of tung oil was applied. One of the things about this finish is that no matter how long it takes, you've just gotta let each coat dry COMPLETELY. If not, the gooey mess takes forever (even weeks) and it's still not right.

Not out of the woods yet....Dan
 
I'm following this project with great interest. Would it be possible to see pics of the project--before, after, in-between, or anything at all?
 
Greetings, X-Head. I had thought about pics, but I'm pretty computer-challenged, though would like to remedy that someday. The attempt is to give clear descriptions but without inducing the yawns. Please feel free to question anything at all so I can explain it to you right. It's a fun project.

Take care....Dan (Mk 9:35)

BTW, the khukuri is pictured on the thread "Christmas Firewood Chopper" and last posted on 12-17-00. It now looks the same again.

[This message has been edited by Lt. Dan (edited 03-12-2001).]
 
The handle is still drying. I use Formby's tung oil and follow the directions. Having done it every other way, it pays to take the pro's advice. But it takes longer than it should to dry, and am beginning to wonder if it's a bad batch.

Later....Dan
 
I have been to the mountain and asked the master...literally. Peter (who lives at the foot of a local mountain) explained that the mineral spirits in the tung oil have evaporated and what's left is linseed oil. The stuff takes time to dry, especially when such a thick coat is applied. The spirits help the oil penetrate and act as a drying agent.

He approved of the way the work was done. (a big sigh of relief) There was some beautiful work in progress and fine small skinning knives at his shop. It seems there is a very good trend back to smaller blades for this kind of work with many experienced local hunters.

It would be nice to know a recipe of correct amounts to remix the tung oil. This is taking a very long time as is. If I can't figure out something, the plan will be to warm everything and rub in the linseed oil a whole lot.

Are there any ideas out there?
 
This may be hard to believe, but the handle still feels a little tacky. Since it absolutely must be completely dry before steelwooling and the next coat, I've considered applying some denatured alcohol or mineral spirits to maybe help dry out the oil. I've had some good results with some rather liberal amounts of tung oil being rubbed into warmed wood, but this situation is a little different since the mineral spirits have evaporated out. But I'm going to let it dry as is and call it a learning experience.

Oddly, over time I had seemed to notice the level of tung oil in the bottle going down faster than I thought it was being used. Also, the best results were obtained with my Mini-Jungle handle, and that was when the bottle was new. All other projects (e.g. Chainpure handle) have had diminishing results. Now it's obvious even to me that what was happening was the evaporation of the mineral spirits before my eyes.

The next step is to see if I can figure out some kind of reconstitution mixture, maybe starting out with a ratio of 5 parts oil to 1 part spirits, and experiment from there. The wood will be warm, thinner coats applied, and lots of rubbing it in.

There is a highly acclaimed finish recipe of linseed oil, polyurethane, and either mineral spirits or denatured alcohol (not sure which). For a khukuri I prefer a less glossy and more penetrating finish that will give a good grip, so I haven't looked into it.

A new bottle of tung oil might be the ultimate remedy, but it would be good to figure this out. I'm just glad I bought the smaller bottle of Formby's. The learning process is as much fun as the end product. As always, other ideas are welcome....Dan
 
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