25 TON (up to 37) disassembled (and mobile) hydraulic press: FULL GUIDE

[David Baranowsky]

hey Folks!

This is my first post here so I would like to welcome ya all.
I couldn't find anywhere here a full guide: how to make a forging press, so I decided to fill this gap. I hope it will help some of you
who want to build own machine.

Basic specification:
- pressure: 25 TON (160 BAR/2300 PSI) up to 37 TON (250 BAR/3600PSI)
- working Width: 55cm / 1.8'
- motor: 3F 4.0kW /5.5hp (400V) 1400prm
- pump: 6cm3 / 0.3cu
- oil capacity 20l/5.3 gal
- dimensions (length/Width/Height): 1000mm x 750mm x 2100mm / 3.3 x 2.5' x 6'8
- total weight: under 300kg (660lb.) with possibility to disassemble to small 25kg components (except of the frame: 110kg) and moved by pickup truck easily!!

Parts required for:
- frame:
- 750mm 100x100mm I beam (x2)
- 1250mm 100x100mm I beam (x2)
- 100x200mm steel plate (12mm)
- 850mm flat bar (I've used 30x6mm bar) (x2)
- 550x200mm steel plate (12mm) (x2)
weight: 110kg
-ram:
- 550x200mm steel plate (12mm) (x2)
- 500x40mm bar (8mm) (x2)
- 500x50mm bar (8mm) (x2)
- 700x110mm steel plate
- 400mm rod (for cylinder assemble) (45mm)
weight: 20kg
- base:
- 7,5m square tube (80x40x3)
- 1,5m square tube (40x40x3)
- 140x440mm steel plate (6mm)
weight: 15kg
- hydraulic:
- 400mm hose (x4)
- 2000mm hose (x2)
- 6cm3/rot pump
- 20l oil
- hydraulic cylinder (max feed 200mm) (x2)
- gliceryn manometer
- hydraulic control gauge
- hydraulic connectors, pipe elbows etc. (it depends on hoses, pump intake)
- 25L tank
- oil filter
- pump clutch
- hydraulic bell housing
weight:-cylinder 25kg (each)
- tank with oil 25kg
- rest 15kg
- control system:
- 750mm square tube 20x20x3
- 1m flat bar (30x6)
- 200x200mm steel plate (6mm)
- 2m rod (10 mm)
- 100x200 (or more) steel plate (3-4mm)
weight: 15kg
- electric and Power supply:
- 4kW 1400rpm motor
- 5m 4x2,5mm electric wire
- 3f switch
- 3f plug
- Crimp connectors
weight: 30kg

Costs:
In my case it was around $1000 BUT I'm not from US so I don't know the US prices (sorry for that).
- I Beams (new): $100
- pump, motor, bell hosing, clutch, hoses, pipes elbows: $450
- hydraulic control valve: $25
- 80x40 and 40x40 tubes: $50
- tank, filter (scrap yard): $100
- scrap metal all (6mm, 12mm) plates $100
- 45mm rod: $15
- screws, weld sticks, 5" discs and stuff: $40
- oil $40
- wire, switch: $30

!!!! useful information !!!!
- small pump gives more control if you want to smoothly control pressure. The 16cm3/rot pump can be used to make the press faster, however it will affect
on control
- if you are bad welder DO NOT weld FRAME (and the RAM*) by yourself- pay someone who know how to weld- Your health is not worth $50. other components can be welded with
low quality welds- they are not they are not participate in force transfer.
- if you feel confident with welding REMEMBER TO CLEAN I beams before welding (!!!) and weld them all around (not only in 2 spots)
- * weld the ram ON the frame with a lot of clamps. it will minimize the shrink
- make oil suck intake on the tank in the middle of the tank height. the Dirt usually remains on the bottom.
- I've welded 80x40x3 tubes to make possible lifting the press with pallet truck. If you plan to make the same thing remember to weld them on the right height.
- for 6cm3 pump Motor can be less powerful (2.2 kW will be ok as well). for 16cm/rot 4kW is required
- Try to bought steel on scrap yard- scrap metal is 4 times cheaper, but remember to check if steel is STRAIGHT (the most important are I beams)
- if you plan to paint the press make it BEFORE THE first run. Removing oil from rusted steel is hard and the paint don't stick well to dirty steel. Cleaning painted
parts is easier.


!!! PRECAUTIONS !!!
- during first run, get some help. One person should stay near the electric switch box. In case of trouble HE/SHE can react! Seriously- don't be a hero
- you don't need to feel hydraulic installation with oil before the first run. Pump will make it, just give her 30sec after you turn it on.
- remember to check MOTOR rotation before you assemble the pump.
- DO not make first test on HOT steel!! (oil leak + 1800 F steel = trouble)
- Make COLD(!) tests: Check if press works smoothly without any load (0 BAR) on full range of motion, next try to squeeze 2x4 or any other wooden piece (0 BAR),
next try it with metal tube (50 BAR), at the end try with solid steel bar (full 160/250 BAR pressure)
- and get fire extinguisher please


Here is the video from the build:

I hope this will help you Guys!
If I forget about something just ask me!

-Cheers, David

 

[Tom Lewis]

Thanks for taking the time to show all this. Very helpful!

 

[David Baranowsky]

Thanks Tom! I hope this will help somebody in the future

 

[David Baranowsky]

Guys, I forget to post the pictures. This is the press:

 

[Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith]

Thanks for posting this.
One suggestion/improvement:
The hydraulic unit and hoses are directly under the press. This puts them in the gravity path of red-hot slag, dropped billets, etc. The hoses on the sides are sticking out and exposed to hot billets being moved around.
Putting a metal shell around the pump and other hydraulic components is a really good idea. Using metal mesh hose covers is also wise.

 

[David Baranowsky]

Thanks for posting this.
One suggestion/improvement:
The hydraulic unit and hoses are directly under the press. This puts them in the gravity path of red-hot slag, dropped billets, etc. The hoses on the sides are sticking out and exposed to hot billets being moved around.
Putting a metal shell around the pump and other hydraulic components is a really good idea. Using metal mesh hose covers is also wise.

OH YES! I forget to wrote that! Hydraulic installation cover is very important thing! Safety is number 1 (ALWAYS!)
The steel cover can be even made from thin steel (0,6mm), like mine (works well), BUT IT MUST be done!