$250 for a stone set

Z

Ztmma

Joined
Oct 9, 2012
Messages
187
Hi guys, looking to get into free hand sharpening. I think im leaning towards waterstones. I want to be able to take a knife from dull to shaving sharp (Eventually that is...alot of practice will be in order) with this set. Some of my knives are s30v steel so I wasnt sure what combination of stones would handle that.
I was leaning towards the norton starter set, but I wanted some advice before I pulled the trigger. My maximum price range would be $250 or so but less would be better. I already ordered a strop from Stropman.
 
Spyderco sharpmaker $45 (for general purpose/on the go)

Then for stones get
DMT D8CF (corse/fine) $52 (325/600 grit)
DMT D8E (extra fine) $48 (1200grit)
Spyderco 8x3 fine $80 (~2500 grit)
Leather Strop $5-30 (DIY vs. store bought)

That's pretty much my setup but I also added the diamond (coarse) and the extra fine stones for my SM but that doubles the price.

I know you asked for waterstones but hey, you use water on the diamond stones...
 
I've got the DMT course/fine 6 in and the DMT eef and I love them. I used those on 9 Christmas knives and they did great. Left arm and left leg are bald. I did notice the eef took a little to break in. I used crap knives to do it but it does a nice job
 
dadams said:
I've got the DMT course/fine 6 in and the DMT eef and I love them. I used those on 9 Christmas knives and they did great. Left arm and left leg are bald. I did notice the eef took a little to break in. I used crap knives to do it but it does a nice job
Click to expand...

I didnt recommend the DMT EEF cause its quite controversial as to wether it ever breaks in or not, being 8k grit even unbroken in it will still be finer than the EF so without having another one that's for sure broken in you never really know. To me the point of diamond stones is to cut faster, that's why I went with the spyderco ceramic stone for the higher grit stone in my setup, no need for the diamond stones at that high of grit really.

DMT also made a limited edition 8" "medium extra fine" @ 6k grit, if you can still find one I'd recommend it over the EEF.

Remember to much pressure will rip the diamonds right or of the plates... Not tryin to turn anyone off of diamond stones, I wouldn't change my setup any (which is mostly diamond stones), just wanted to mention it here.
 
There is a set from CKTG for around $260, a little over your budget.

It consists of nubatama waterstones which should have no problem cutting the steels you have. I would advise that before you take the plunge on an expensive set of waterstones you practice and learn on some cheaper gear--a norton crystalon, a finer stone, and a strop.
 
Bladenoobie1 said:
There is a set from CKTG for around $260, a little over your budget.

It consists of nubatama waterstones which should have no problem cutting the steels you have. I would advise that before you take the plunge on an expensive set of waterstones you practice and learn on some cheaper gear--a norton crystalon, a finer stone, and a strop.
Click to expand...

Great advice.

To that initial 3 piece set eventually I would add a 140 Atoma for flattening/repair work , a 400 nubatama and a 2k nubatama.
 
Last edited:
The Nubatama set is nice but the 5k won't sharpen S30V. It would be better to piece together a set of Nubatama stones maybe changing the 5k out for the 4k Ume.

Personally I'm switching it up to a 3k chosera after my 1k XXhard Ume and will be replacing my bamboo 180 with the bamboo 150 (wore out my 180). The bamboo 150 is a awesome coarse waterstone and the Ume 1k XXhard is a bit coarser of a 1k so there is no stone needed between. The 1k XXhard Ume also cuts very fast so it can be used for minor re-profiling and repair. Being a bit coarser it became a impossible jump to the 5k thus my reason for the switch to the 3k.

Then there is shapton glass stones which are said to work with all steels.
 
Im going to follow some of bladenoobies advice and get a cheap set to practice on, then work up to an expensive set. After the crystalon stone what should my progression be like? 1000-2000 then strop?
 
Ztmma said:
Im going to follow some of bladenoobies advice and get a cheap set to practice on, then work up to an expensive set. After the crystalon stone what should my progression be like? 1000-2000 then strop?
Click to expand...

I would say based off my own experience that 500-1k range stone would be good enough for basic edc tasks + a strop. I've gotten great results at a shapton glass 500 stone and a norton india style stone, so I know lower grits can produce good edges. For low maintenance gear as waterstones at one point will require flattening, diamond stones are probably a good choice. From what I've read a DMT fine + a strop should give you a great edge. My experience with diamond abrasives is limited so maybe someone more knowledgeable in them can chime in.

A member on this forum also sells these sharpening blocks called "washboards" where you have a block to which you can attach sandpaper too. I haven't used a washboard yet (though I have one coming in the mail), but I have used sandpaper and glass when I was learning how to freehand sharpen. I believe these washboards run at $48 shipped and if sandpaper is of some interest to you, the washboard might be an affordable option that can produce good results.

Other than that a crystalon stone, some medium-fine range abrasive, and a strop should be all you need to practice and learn freehand without expending a great deal of money.
 
Cereal_killer said:
I didnt recommend the DMT EEF cause its quite controversial as to wether it ever breaks in or not, being 8k grit even unbroken in it will still be finer than the EF so without having another one that's for sure broken in you never really know. To me the point of diamond stones is to cut faster, that's why I went with the spyderco ceramic stone for the higher grit stone in my setup, no need for the diamond stones at that high of grit really.

DMT also made a limited edition 8" "medium extra fine" @ 6k grit, if you can still find one I'd recommend it over the EEF.

Remember to much pressure will rip the diamonds right or of the plates... Not tryin to turn anyone off of diamond stones, I wouldn't change my setup any (which is mostly diamond stones), just wanted to mention it here.
Click to expand...

I noticed on my eef that very light pressure produced a good edge shine it did take about 15 knives to get it to that point, when I first got it my 5k grit Japanese stone did a bit better, the eef now does nicer. Maybe I got a good one I don't know
 
I went 220,500,1000, 6000 shapton glass. I think you would have enough for a holder too. Russ
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top