26C3 grinder platen?

Joseph Bandeko

Joseph Bandeko

Knifemaker / Craftsman / Service Provider
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Dec 9, 2021
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I am in need of a new platen for my 2x72 and was thinking how well 26C3 would work for this.
left at full hardness (about 68hrc) I think it would work pretty well, what are your thoughts?
I don’t think it over heating will be that big a deal, even if the platen reaches 350f it will still be at about 65hrc, which is harder then most platens in steels like D2 right?
I also found this video and the hottest it ever gets up to is 250f.
 
I don’t think 26C3 will be wear resistant enough

I was going to suggest D2 as that is what my friend Tim Wright recommends and users but Devin already mentioned it
 
I really don’t want to use glass for safety reasons.
and I know 26c3 is not necessarily the best thing to use but I don’t have the equipment to heat treat something like d2 (yet) so I would have to send it off to get heat treated and that’s going to take more time then I have right now.
I have plans to do one in d2 in the future but am just wanting something that will get me by until then.
 
Before the glass platen, I used mild steel. That platen has a lot of visible wear (mostly from profiling), but I made some decent knives with it. I think you'll be a lot better off with a hardened platen, even if it is not the most wear resistant steel. Don't let perfect be the enemy of the good. Go with what you have and upgrade when you have the need and means to do so.
 
There are a pair of case hardened mild steel radius platens on their way to me now. I will hope they last me long enough to evaluate their usefulness on my early KMGs with a platen waterchiller. If the concept works as designed, I’ll commission my favorite size in D2 and HT here.
If you make a 26c3 platen and test it, please post back about its effectiveness. I will do the same. Thx and good luck…
 
2 things.

1) I think hardened 26c3 will do just fine. Is it D2 level wear resistant no but is it good and you may not notice a difference.

2) don't be scared by the glass. Weld a ledge on a platen to hold the bottom and weld it on, it's not going to come off. Then you don't need to worry about dishing.
 
for the future platen what about using A11? Alpha sells it in 0.3” thick stock, or do you think the added cost would make it not worth it?
 
When we talk about platen glass normally this is what's used: "Pyroceram is a 7/32 inch thick transparent ceramic with a slight amber tint and looks like glass. Pyroceram has a high thermal shock rating of 1380 degrees,"

I've been using for years and never had a problem. I do have one platen with the glass cracked, but glue holds everything in place so it doesn't shatter. With the type of "glass", the platen material isn't an issue. Aluminum works just as good as hardened steel, and perhaps better if it helps with cooling any.
 
Ken H> said:
When we talk about platen glass normally this is what's used: "Pyroceram is a 7/32 inch thick transparent ceramic with a slight amber tint and looks like glass. Pyroceram has a high thermal shock rating of 1380 degrees,"

I've been using for years and never had a problem. I do have one platen with the glass cracked, but glue holds everything in place so it doesn't shatter. With the type of "glass", the platen material isn't an issue. Aluminum works just as good as hardened steel, and perhaps better if it helps with cooling any.
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OK I’ll think about it, where did you get yours?
 
If I had an SGA (probably will this year) I would change from my pyroceram platen to hardened steel D2 or A2 or something. When it shows any sign of not being flat anymore: a few passes on the SGA and then as new. Less work than changing the glass platen, no cracking, easier to radius the corners on are a few things I can think up
 
Bunker Hill Blades said:
I really don’t want to use glass for safety reasons.
and I know 26c3 is not necessarily the best thing to use but I don’t have the equipment to heat treat something like d2 (yet) so I would have to send it off to get heat treated and that’s going to take more time then I have right now.
I have plans to do one in d2 in the future but am just wanting something that will get me by until then.
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I was hesitant about glass at first as well, but as long as you prep your mating surfaces correctly and add a ledge at the bottom, you'll never have an issue. I've gotten my platen backer so hot that I couldn't hold my hand on it, and the platen still stayed in place. The tension of the belt actually helps keep it against the adhesive, so as long as there's a bottom ledge, it won't slip down.
 
One thing to mention for any newer or less experienced readers is that the "GLASS" we are referring to is not normal glass. It is pyro-ceramic glass. It withstands a lot of heat and does not break in an unsafe way, if that ever happens. JB weld with a metal shelf below the platen will keep it there until you torch it off. Most all the knife suppliers carry it. You can get it in any size you need. with 2"X8" and 2"X10" being the most used sizes.
 
Hubert S. said:
You don't even need mild steel. I use an aluminum backer for my glass platen.
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Copper works well because of it's efficiency at transferring heat. Someone gave me a large section of 3/4" copper that I cut into two platen liners then covered with 1/4" ceramic glass.
 
fitzo said:
If you make a 26c3 platen and test it, please post back about its effectiveness. I will do the same. Thx and good luck…
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I’ve been using the 26c3 platen for like 3 weeks now and its working OK, I’ve had to flatten it once already, but it has been working so...
 
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