2nd Batch Ready for Show and Tell Pic Heavy

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Jan 1, 2018
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A big thanks to everyone hear. I've been at this for a little over a year spending most of my time on making tools like a heat treat oven and grinder and accessories. I figured I'd though up some pics for comment. This is part of my second batch. I have another 8 or 9 mostly western style yet to come from this batch. Feel free to voice your opinion.
 

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More to come
 

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So , why you drill this holes , what their purpose is ?

YXWU57t.jpg
 
hi scott, i have found the only way i can get pins to disappear is with a pin press, made from an old arbor press. soldering for "me" did not solve the problem, and if it is not fully soldered it becomes a spot where flux can weep out 2 weeks later :( i tried peening with a hammer like steve johnson and bob loveless but i still kept ending up with just enough gap on one side to make the pin not disappear. once there is a head on the pin i cannot tell where i need more peening. i guess there is more skill to peening then i realized. and the final step i figured out was that especially with nickel silver, if it has the oxide/patina coating, that will keep it from disappearing. now i put the pin stock in a drill chuck and pinch 600 then 1000 grit paper around it until its shiny. my stainless pin stock also had some stuff on the outside, it helped there too.
 
hi scott, i have found the only way i can get pins to disappear is with a pin press, made from an old arbor press. soldering for "me" did not solve the problem, and if it is not fully soldered it becomes a spot where flux can weep out 2 weeks later :( i tried peening with a hammer like steve johnson and bob loveless but i still kept ending up with just enough gap on one side to make the pin not disappear. once there is a head on the pin i cannot tell where i need more peening. i guess there is more skill to peening then i realized. and the final step i figured out was that especially with nickel silver, if it has the oxide/patina coating, that will keep it from disappearing. now i put the pin stock in a drill chuck and pinch 600 then 1000 grit paper around it until its shiny. my stainless pin stock also had some stuff on the outside, it helped there too.
Thanks for the tip. Ill have to try the press idea. I'm 50 / 50 right now making them disappear.
 
If they are same material they should disappear. Did you pinned them ?
same material and beat the heck out of them. just a very faint ring. It's doesn't appear until I start to polish the bolsters. At 400 grit you can't the ring.
 
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I thought about that but then I thought...who drill that size hole for pins for bolster ? :)
I first tried smaller holes but with the run out on my crap drill press I kept snapping smaller bits on stainless. I'm sure 'll get them figured out eventually.

I just had to remove 1 handle because I noticed after epoxying on the scale, the bolsters were out of alignment very slightly. I showed my wife and she couldn't see it but I did and it bugged me.
 
If you want the pins to disappear use a tapered reamer
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I have done 2 pinned guards in my life. TWO. They were done just last month. I drilled a couple 1/8" 0.125" holes in the tang and in the brass guard. I used 1/8" 0.125" brass rod, which of course will not go in a 0.125" hole, but if you turn it down, carefully 220 grit sandpaper, it will, and after sanding/polish, you couldn't begin to see those pins. Got lucky, I guess.
 
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