2x72 Grinder Build - 2018

Joined
Feb 4, 2013
Messages
229
I spent some time putting together a grinder build along. I have built 9 grinders over the past 5 years and I have revised my plans a bit each time – I think I now have what I think is a very good 2x72 grinder. I put together this build along so that others who may want a nice grinder could see that they can be built fairly easily with tools you likely already have. All in, anyone with a drill press, sander and some hand tools can build a top of the line variable speed 2x72” grinder for about $1,000 and a person can build one much cheaper if some of the metal/parts/motor, etc. are already in the garage.

I drew up plans and a detailed parts list for this grinder – I am happy to share those plans with anyone who wants them. I can email them to you in pdf if you drop me a PM.



Starting with the raw materials cut to size. You can buy the items cut to rough size, or cut it yourself.

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Cleaning up all the edges – I used my mill with a roughing end mill to do this, but you do not need a big mill to accomplish this step.

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You can use files, a random orbital sander or belt sander to get this done. Take your time on this part to have a nice finished product. Pictured below is the first belt grinder I made – I made this grinder entirely with woodworking tools and a drill press. I cleaned up and polished all the edges with a combination of files and a random orbital sander, followed by a buffer. It turned out very well – just took a bit more time.

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Time to start the build – first starting with the tracking assembly. You will see many of the steps to follow are simply marking a hole, drilling a hole, using the drilled hole to mark another hole and tapping the second hole, then repeat. Take one at a time and your build will be precise.

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You may need to countersink the material a bit to allow for the shoulder bolt to have proper depth in your tracking pivot piece. Shown below is what I did.


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Once your tracking assembly is bolted together, then mount it to the tracking arm. Here I drilled all 4 holes and then transferred those to the tracking assembly.

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One hole and bolt at a time will guarantee a good fit up. As I mentioned, most of this grinder build is simply transferring holes, drilling & tapping…then repeat.


Tapping the ½-13 hole for the tracking wheel bolt and then transferring that to the tracking arm to determine the exact location to drill for the 5/16” tracking adjustment screw. I will drill/tap the arm for a 5/16” threaded steel insert.

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Mounting the handle

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The completed arm unit

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On to the arm mounting uprights. Drill, tap and countersink for the 3/8” shoulder bolt. Then cut your spacers to length, with .125 worth of washers and a 1” wide tracking arm – I cut my spacers to 1.125

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On to the body – mark and drill your holes for the left side. Notice, I also drilled and tapped the left side for threaded steel inserts for my tooling arm locking handles.

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Then transfer those holes to the right side (one by one….or at least one by one until you get 3 or 4 holes, then you can knock the rest out all together)

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Next is the hard part – or at least a time consuming part depending on what kind of tools you have. You will need to make clearance for the face of the motor that extends beyond the c face. This is not much material to take off and can be easily done with a mill. If you do not have a mill, there are a couple options:

  1. You can use your drill press – just mark out all the material you need to remove, drill and then use a chisel to bust out the webbing.

  2. You can use a 4.5” hole saw and just drill the whole 4.5” section out. The diameter of this inset portion on a 56c and 145TC face are 4.5”
You could also probably just skip this step and bolt the motor up as is – you would only lose about .150" of shaft length on the other side of the plate by not removing this material for a flush face mount. The ring on most of the motors I have seen is flat and would mate just fine with a flat surface.

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On to drilling the spacers. I start with the top, line it up with the left side plate, mark the hole and drill it. If you drill these holes one at a time, you will be successful and it will be a clean assembly. After you mark and drill the first hole put the spacer back in place, use a screw to locate the first hole and then mark and drill the second hole……then reassemble put screws in both holes and then mark and drill hole no. 3.


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I will then put 2 pieces of tape on both sides of a 1.5” tooling arm and use that as a proper spacer when I mark the next piece.


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Here is a tip: when you are drilling your spacers, mark them on the top to identify the top and the order they go on.

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Next, lets mount the base. Drill some perimeter holes to bolt the unit down to a bench, then lets work on mounting the base to the unit. I keep the base flush with the front and about 2 -2.5” of overhang on the belt side. I use 4 screws to mount this. I simply mark some rough locations for 4 holes, then mark the first (drill and tap), then repeat until I have all 4.


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Now final assembly. Use threadlock. Notice the .020 spacers between the left side and the tooling arm spacers.

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Sand the motor shaft and use this stuff to be able to get the drive wheel off in the future, if needed.

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I usually mount the gas strut and the brackets once it is all together. Aim to keep the tracking arm just above level when the spring is fully extended – under load, with belt tension we are aiming for a level tracking arm which will provide the best tracking.

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They just get prettier and prettier. It's crazy how addicting it can become refining your own machinery designs. I'm hoping to start another stainless build soon. Got a potential source for .25 thick 304 drops.
 
You surely did good work there. I do like your design. Sorta like a "much improved" KMG clone. A question for you please. I see your first grinder uses a base mounted motor rather than the 56C faceplate. Do you find a big disadvantage to that over the 56C faceplate?

I really like your tension/tracking arm - very rigid which is extremely important. No flex allowed there.

If you get a chance, I'd appreciate a copy of your plans also. sailingtoo@gmail.com
 
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Great build. Would like to get the pdf. but seems to be no way to pm you. Was not permitted to start a "conversation"

J
 
Has anyone built one of these based on the plans I have sent? I have been emailing these plans to at least one or two people per day since I posted this build along on this site (and other sites I participate in). I have received some positive feedback, but only saw a picture of one other machine built. Just wondering if anyone has been building these.
 
Very nice indeed! I do prefer an over arm, top mounted tracking system like the one I designed. Allows the standard type "swing arm" action, but also incorporates a canting as well. Really negates any potential tracking issues.

I do envy that you build a new one every so often! That's like builders heaven to me! LOL! Was able to do mine complete for under $600. Even THATS a one time deal for me pretty much. So I build mine to be able to add on easily. Getting ready to modify for a 2nd tooling arm port, and thankfully will only cost me about $25-$35 for the 2 pieces of 1018 cold rolled I need.

MAN I love building! Thanks for sharing bjansen.
 
Has anyone built one of these based on the plans I have sent? I have been emailing these plans to at least one or two people per day since I posted this build along on this site (and other sites I participate in). I have received some positive feedback, but only saw a picture of one other machine built. Just wondering if anyone has been building these.

I've not built from your plans since I've already got a decent grinder I built. I do thank you for the copy of plans you sent me, and I've saved them. From time to time I get requests about how to build, etc and will be using ideas from your plans. There are several ideas in your plans I really like.

Like OneArmed I enjoy building tools 'n equipment almost as much as making knives.

Ken H>
 
Please send the plans for the build to
vottak@programmer.net
Having that I already have 2x72 build by me earlier.... building new one might take time, but I definitely want to go for new build.
Thanks
 
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