3 more 20 inch villagers by Kumar. No pix but deal.

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Mar 5, 1999
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Kumar made two 20 and one about 19 inch HI village models that look just like the 17 incher in the other thread -- sort of a 20 inch WWII. Made for serious duty!!! It looks the same and the description is the same except it's about 2 pounds. There are very minor rust spots near tip on a couple of these (monsoon season) -- clean up time five minutes.

Take these away for $95. Considering that the HI 18 inch WWII is $145 this is a very good buy.

Call or email and if you have to have a pix let me know and I'll try to get one up.
 
I'll take one of the 20"ers... Sounds like a good canvas for a blueing experiment and woodchukery-from-scratch.

Scot
 
These are the "hand-and-a-half" khuks I posted about not too long ago. I can't say enough in praise of this model. It's right up there with the GS in my book. :cool:
 
Looks like Pala et. al. like this village style idea now, since they made some more?
 
Steel mounted and steel chape. Made to use and abuse without worrying about destroying mirror finish and glistening handle.
 
Is that 20" still there!? What torture to watch it linger. I would like to see a 20" villager AK. If I did see one before I could afford to purchase it, I would likely grow another pronounced, pulsating vein on my forehead.


Hooray for villagers!

munk
 
Received my 20" today, very nice! Maybe just because I have been fondling my M43 too much lately, but this one feels a little like an M43 too. The bend in the spine is not as abrupt as I am used to in a WWII, so it suggests a curve rather than an angle. The belly is not too deep either, keeping the weight down for such a long knife. Nice point on it too. All in all, kinda a WWII-M43-GS hybrid. It is my first example of Kumar's work and it fits right in with all the others. I was hoping to get some brass inlay in the sword of Shiva area like the smaller Kumar villagers, but this one is plain. The sword itself is deep and well-struck. The handle is a good piece of plain wood iching for Walosification. Buttcap is slightly loose but some epoxy will fix that.
The regular "H.I." in script is different on this one, next time I have my camera out I'll get a picture of that and Kumar's initials. I could just ask my wife what it is but then I'd have to admit I bought another khuk! LOL
I think Kumar saved me a special order, as I was hoping to get an 18" WWII with steel fittings (similar to Kmark's). This one is just what I wanted and a bit longer too! Thanks Uncle Bill, Kumar, and all of the crew.
 
mPsi:

I received the 19-incher on this thread yesterday.

Your description pretty much matches my knife, down the the loose buttcap! Actually, mine loosened up after the little bit of chopping that I managed to get in. I don't have bench-vise, so I held the knife point down against a large chunk of hardwood, and carefully peened down the protruding end of the tang with many fairly gentle taps. If you don't see any difference after a dozen or so taps, go slightly harder. I took care to keep the point, tang end, and hammer blows in line to avoid any chance of bending the point which was stuck in the wood. No problem. Buttcap seems tight so far. I doubt the kamis have a big vise, so they must do something similar.

Don't have a WW II, but I thought the same thing about the shape from photos. I'd be interested in a description of how they compare chopping-wise.

I've sanded the down the karda and chakma handles, and applied some orange oil. Wood is as nice as it looked like it would be. The khuk handle looks like it will be even prettier. My plan was to go for a quick finish-- a few coats of orange oil with sanding/polishing, and then wax, in keeping with the utilitarian concept of these models, but the wood is so nice that I may be unable to resist doing the full Walosi...

My first by Kumar, and I'm impressed. Very nicely shaped handles on everything. The karda and chakma handles weren't fully rounded out, but an little coarse sandpaper did the trick. Very light forging marks on the khuk flats which fits the "villager" concept. Fit seems excellent all-round, except the the keeper, which is not quite up the very nice job on the rest of the knife. One of the best scabbards I've seen--everything is very neat and tidy at the top where the leather is tucked in and a very good fit for blade and tools.

A real bargain, this is a HI khuk dressed in working attire.
 
Firkin, the oil route is what I did to my khuks. I could have done the full 'walosi" but oil and wax makes a nifty patina over time. Antique tables sometimes have that finish and it looks like a natural matte laquer. ( well, sort of...)
anyway, simple is sometimes best, or darn close to it.


munk
 
I forgot to mention that the scabbard on my new one is the best scabbard I've seen so far, a perfect fit. Quick in and out, but when the blade is fully in the scabbard it is solid and does not rattle or move at all. I can even hold upside down and lightly shake and it doesn't fall out. Most of my others could do with a tightening up, but right now I'm barely qualified as a trainee backup apprentice handle-maker and blade polisher, much less anything on the sarki side of the shop :D Hopefully Ferrous Wheel can educate us all when he shows us his YCS work.
 
Maybe by the time Bill gets back he'll have a shipment or two to unpack.

What is in those shipments whenever they come in? Undoubtedly even Uncle can't guess.

But we can dream...
 
TANG.jpg

The larger buttcap part rotates slightly, while the smaller part is welded to the stub of the tang. Do I just tap the smaller part down onto the larger part to make it a snug fit?
 
mPsi,

largest oval is the buttcap (labeled loose)

smaller oval is the keeper or tang keeper (labeled not loose)

The stub of the tang is in the center--it's not welded, just looks that way. The tang passes through the buttcap and keeper and is peened (hammered) into a mushroom shape. In this case it looks like the tang has a tight friction fit on the keeper due to expansion from peening, but not on the buttcap.

Pound on the end of the tang ONLY. It will force the keeper towards the point which will tighten the buttcap. The tang may expand in the hole in the buttcap as well. If the keeper/buttcap fit is really bad I guess one could try messing with the keeper, but I wouldn't. You risk reversing the dish on it. The brass buttcaps and keepers are softer than the steel ones and would dimple even easier if struck.

Good luck, just go slow and easy, and aim carefully. The steel tang isn't hardened at all here, and it will mushroom out. You could wrap the blade and put it in a vise (maybe with a wedge like a wood shake to even shape), or support the blade point as I did.
 
Good help and thanks. Owners of HI village models please check and see if all these models are being marked BG rather than HI.
 
Bill,

My village model by Kumar is also marked B.G.


Also, all markings are on the right side of the blade, none on the left. Kumar's initals (name?) in Devanagari next to mark.
 
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