3 work rest solutions for KMG and similar grinders

LARRYZ10

LARRYZ10

Joined
Feb 6, 2010
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IMG_0010.jpg IMG_0010.jpgHi, Here are some photos of work rests I have constructed to help with various grinding problems. I thought I would share them if some one is interested in putting together a better rest than the stock KMG rest for different applications. I made the toolbars from aluminum as well and 2 of the rests are made from hot rolled steel. Larry Lehman
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Those are nice looking solutions for work rests. After I finished my GIB, I thought I would be able to build just one rest that would do everything. I was wrong. The rests are just like the different wheels and such; different styles for different jobs.

Do you have any issues with the articulated arm coming loose at the joints or are those left-hand threaded handles?

Here's the first rest I made for my GIB. It is pretty versatile but not perfectly executed. The single handle tightening system is a bit of a pain. I just made a new rest that is not angle adjustable. It is trued to be flat and level. I'll try to get a pic of it posted. It is really nice for squaring spines with the grinder in the horizontal position.

Untitled by Ranger_Bob, on Flickr

Untitled by Ranger_Bob, on Flickr
 
Nick, for grinds on more curved blades where you have rock the knife up or down. In that case even smaller ones like just a rod works very well but if there is a big part that is straight, a compromise between the two is best.

That's my 2 cents worth. ;)
 
Ranger Bob, I wanted to make the articulated rest so the pressure at the pivot points would be minimalized so I made the3 arms aluminum and the work surface out of 3/8 inch aluminum. I used 1/2 inch handles and secured the plate with 9/16 holes fitted with threaded steel inserts of 1/2 inch outside/3/8 inch inside. The aluminum rest weighs probably only about 25 to 30% of steel components. The adjustable handle are a little longer than most but you still have to crank down on them. My machinst friend wants to mill little lines under the pivot points so that they will not move but so far no problems. If you are having problems with the joints moving you might consider drilling your threaded holes to the nest larger size and tapping them to get more grab and thereby using a handle that will probably be a bit longer for more leverage. Your rest design looks cool though. Larry
 
Nick, I like short broad blades on my hunting knives and I love the look of deep hollow grinds. I use the small rest so that I can rock the blade near the tip to get a continuous hollow that follows the curve of the blade. I have seen rests made from a section of 2 inch steel pipe but I like to dag some blades straight across my little rest. The edges of the rest show the rocking wear. Larry
 
The photos show a rest with a 2x2 square tubing spacer and one without for a 14 inch wheel. I have made spacers for 3,6, and 10 inch wheels also. Other photos show a 24 inch table for use on flats grinds with a platen and an articulated rest made from aluminum. There are 3 different rests in all. Larry
 
Patrice, I've never though anything I've seen of your making looked like crap...far from it in fact.

I was asking about them loosening because the downward pressure on the rest would actually cause the arms to want to un-screw. I know they solved the issue on the MAP arm by using left-hand thread ACME screws. My arms are very, stout. I just copied the tool arms that Wilmont Grinders uses so nothing too original. Here's a couple pics of my other tool arm in action.

Bob

Untitled by Ranger_Bob, on Flickr

Untitled by Ranger_Bob, on Flickr
 
12345678910 said:
I think that those three photos are all the same ?
Click to expand...

LARRYZ10 said:
The photos show a rest with a 2x2 square tubing spacer and one without for a 14 inch wheel. I have made spacers for 3,6, and 10 inch wheels also. Other photos show a 24 inch table for use on flats grinds with a platen and an articulated rest made from aluminum. There are 3 different rests in all. Larry
Click to expand...

I see it now

Imgr photos don't all show up for me.

If I cut and paste I can see them all
 
Bob, To be honest I never thought of using left hand thread bolts and I would have if I had a clue first. The rest seems to work ok right now but if I have problems I will make two new arms and drill and tap for left hand. Thanks for the idea. Larry
 
I like Bob's design with the adjustable height option.I have been studying different setups since making my jigs to fit everything from a HF 1x30 to a TW-90. Although I don't hear complaints about the articulating arm setup it looks to be prone to movment.
With the design like in Bobs you can adjust up and down without changing the angle.

Jim
 
I really like Bob's design too and I wish I could use it but it requires a grinder frame with 2 receptacles for tool arms whereas the KMG grinder and the No weld grinders and variations only have one receptacle for tool arms. David Sharp at Sharpwerks has a modification of his KMG for a second receptacle that holds a MAP arm. His modification and Bob's design would work very well in my opinion. I built my rest to only grind swedges on a few knives . I wanted about 60 degrees and a rest close to the wheel for more control of the grind. Bob's design is much steadier if you have that type of grinder with the 2 tool arms. I believe his grinder is a direct drive polar bear type grinder...nice setup. I will probably work on some other designs for adjustable rests until I get a rock solid easy to set angled rest that will work with my KMG. I sure am open to other ideas for an adjustable rest if anyone has a different approach. I will have to grind a few blades to find out if my aluminum rest is any good. Larry
 
The thing about the MAP arm is that you modify the KMG first to add an additional receiver. I think Michael was selling the kits to add the receiver separately but, I don't know if he is selling anything these days. The fab work to DIY it would be pretty straightforward though. I think Travis has a good idea on the TW90's by basically adding a receiver onto the side of the arm. That would be even easier than adding a receiver to the machine but you would have to put one on each tool arm.

Bob
 
William, The wheel is a 14 inch model sold by Beaumont Metal Works. They make the KMG grinder. Call Rob Frink for more info. They have a nice website with specs and prices. Larry Lehman
 
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