On the current iteration of the 301, the spey blade tip sticks out of the knife, as everyone, here, knows. What is the purpose of having that sharp tip stick above the handle? Is it that the kick is too tall? If I take the kick down, will the blade edge then contact the back spring and dull the fine edge? Is there another solution?
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301 Spey blade questions
- Thread starter DocT
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bertl
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Use an older 301.
Actually, I think 300Bucks has suggested carefully taking the kick down a little. I'll see if I can find the thread where he mentioned the problem. Better yet, maybe he will come along and comment.
I think this is more of a problem on the 301 than on the 303. Part of it is that when the position of the spey and sheepsfoot blades were switched end for end, Buck didn't take into account that the frame isn't symmetrical and the point of the spey became located at a narrower spot on the frame.
Bert
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I left the kick alone, but took a large mill smooth file and slowly took the blade tip down in a more spear point/drop point type tip. Not much, just a bit of filing was enough to put the blade tip down in the handle. Take a few swipes and try it, then if needed a few more swipes. Like taking down a kick, go slowly and check often by closing the knife and seeing wear the tip is.
I may take the kick down just a teeny tad to make the nail nick of the sheep foot blade a bit more accessible in a hurry. I use the sheep foot blade more than any other blade.
I may take the kick down just a teeny tad to make the nail nick of the sheep foot blade a bit more accessible in a hurry. I use the sheep foot blade more than any other blade.
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EDIT - I slept on this an felt my answer was off the top of my head and was a "plastic" world fix. I have returned to fight the good fight.
Yes, I do not like the spey point above the edge of the frame. As I mention below and as Bert states I think I wrote on this a little in distant past. I have not searched for that thread. At that time I played with the setup and in reality could not really get much of a tip catch on hand or cloth. I think the blades nest together and help each other be pocket friendly. In custom folders a craftsman has the time to carefully fit the shape of the liners, blade well (spring) angle and blade shape. In a production knife less time is taken and a knife receives a 'good enough' tuning. Bert hit the nail on the head with the mention of the tapered design being left as is in the change of ends for the spey and sheepsfoot on the newer 301's.
Likely, (my guess), the toe of the tangs are designed to keep the edge from hitting the bottom of the blade well if the blade is let "slam" closed. I have adjusted a couple of my 301's to fit slightly lower, below or close to below, the top of the side liner edge. I have done this by careful and slow filing of the toe or 'kick' on the tang. But, stop short, keeping the blade edge from impacting the spring if it were to slam closed. The other measures below could be useful but they are 'plastic' fixes. Lowering the blade kick will mean it takes more force to open the blade. My best advice, if you feel this high position is a problem, is to open up all blades and study the spey blade movement. Open and close it watching its action. If you feel you can and want to lower a high tip then alter the kick slowly, not over filing. Or just be happy with the way your knife is. When I carry a 301, or more likely a 303, I usually carry a early eighties version, before the era of three springs and the spey on the old end.
PRE-EDIT POST follows.
As stated, file on the bottom of tang toe (kick) very slowly. You can't go back. Once you get near the bottom don't try for that last 64th. Camillus made some of the old 311s with a nylon insert for the tip of those long blades to bounce off of when they were allowed to free fall into the blade well. You could do the same by putting a drop (and I mean a bb pellet size drop) of silicone chaulk in the blade well where the blade would hit, use toothpick. Or cut a small piece of plastic from some empty household container and glue it on the bottom. Open all the blades for either method, clean area with Q-tip in alcohol, a put very small amount of super glue on the plastic then place in bottom of blade well. You are gluing on top of the spring so don't let is run down sides of spring. You could try some pencil eraser rubber.
Yes the design is poor, it is what it is. Your method is one way, these are another. I went very slowly on the kick to a certain point, then used the silicone method on mine. Again clean with alcohol with get rid of oil. Let drop dry and oil away. Mine is sticking but I am currently not using it in EDC. I played with it holding upside down and right side up till it got firm. In the distant past I have shown the plastic in the 311.
300
Yes, I do not like the spey point above the edge of the frame. As I mention below and as Bert states I think I wrote on this a little in distant past. I have not searched for that thread. At that time I played with the setup and in reality could not really get much of a tip catch on hand or cloth. I think the blades nest together and help each other be pocket friendly. In custom folders a craftsman has the time to carefully fit the shape of the liners, blade well (spring) angle and blade shape. In a production knife less time is taken and a knife receives a 'good enough' tuning. Bert hit the nail on the head with the mention of the tapered design being left as is in the change of ends for the spey and sheepsfoot on the newer 301's.
Likely, (my guess), the toe of the tangs are designed to keep the edge from hitting the bottom of the blade well if the blade is let "slam" closed. I have adjusted a couple of my 301's to fit slightly lower, below or close to below, the top of the side liner edge. I have done this by careful and slow filing of the toe or 'kick' on the tang. But, stop short, keeping the blade edge from impacting the spring if it were to slam closed. The other measures below could be useful but they are 'plastic' fixes. Lowering the blade kick will mean it takes more force to open the blade. My best advice, if you feel this high position is a problem, is to open up all blades and study the spey blade movement. Open and close it watching its action. If you feel you can and want to lower a high tip then alter the kick slowly, not over filing. Or just be happy with the way your knife is. When I carry a 301, or more likely a 303, I usually carry a early eighties version, before the era of three springs and the spey on the old end.
PRE-EDIT POST follows.
As stated, file on the bottom of tang toe (kick) very slowly. You can't go back. Once you get near the bottom don't try for that last 64th. Camillus made some of the old 311s with a nylon insert for the tip of those long blades to bounce off of when they were allowed to free fall into the blade well. You could do the same by putting a drop (and I mean a bb pellet size drop) of silicone chaulk in the blade well where the blade would hit, use toothpick. Or cut a small piece of plastic from some empty household container and glue it on the bottom. Open all the blades for either method, clean area with Q-tip in alcohol, a put very small amount of super glue on the plastic then place in bottom of blade well. You are gluing on top of the spring so don't let is run down sides of spring. You could try some pencil eraser rubber.
Yes the design is poor, it is what it is. Your method is one way, these are another. I went very slowly on the kick to a certain point, then used the silicone method on mine. Again clean with alcohol with get rid of oil. Let drop dry and oil away. Mine is sticking but I am currently not using it in EDC. I played with it holding upside down and right side up till it got firm. In the distant past I have shown the plastic in the 311.
300
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- Oct 3, 2014
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Like Jackknife I chose to file the blades on a 301, changing the spey to a spear lowered the point below the frame when closed. Filing the sheepfoot into a wharncliffe and the kick a very small amount, lined up all three blades to the same level as clip blade when closed (it does not contact the spring when snapped shut). This made a sleek, safe and very functional 301.
comparison pic; top = modified, bottom = unmodified
comparison pic; top = modified, bottom = unmodified
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Thanks for the replies, everyone. I think I will explore some of these options and decide. Right now I am leaning towards a combination of lowing the kick just a tad, and taking down the point just a bit. RS, I do like the way your sheepfoot came out, as well. I might tackle that at a later time as the taller blade does not really bother me.
afishhunter
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- Oct 21, 2014
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- 14,368
I never noticed the Spey blade of my 301 (2015 tang stamp) being proud when closed.
Yes, at some point they swapped ends on which this blade was affixed and now the blade is a bit proud.
I have not started on my project, yet. The local hardware store went out of business, I just found out. So, I will have to made a trip to ACE when I have time.
I have not started on my project, yet. The local hardware store went out of business, I just found out. So, I will have to made a trip to ACE when I have time.