3M Microabrasive sheets

T

The_Guide

Joined
Feb 1, 2009
Messages
604
Has anyone seen these?

http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=2&p=33004&cat=1,43072

They are sheets of abrasive at 15, 5, and 0.5 micron (1000, 2500, and ~9000 grit respectively)

These things look awesome. You could wrap it around a dowel, for a homemade sharpening/honing rod, or put it on a padded surface for a convex strop.

Does anyone have any experience with these sheets? They look rather promising and I may just have to pick some up to play around with.

The_Guide :cool:
 
i have used them. when i bought them, the 15 micron was much stiffer than the other two, like a heavy paper. the other two were thinner, flexier plastic type of backing.

they worked well, i used them on a soft backing.

i wouldn't say any better necessarily then any other sandpaper i've used, but good if you are looking for the finer grits.
 
I use 1 micron, .3 micron, and .05 micron sheets over glass and they have worked great for me. I am either following Spyderco UF or a Shapton 8000 grit Glasstone to improve the hair whittling ability. I believe I got mine from tools for woodworking, but can't remember right now.

Mike
 
You got those 0.05 micron ones from www.psidragon.com

Unless you're getting into stuff so fine that psidragon and r.s.hughes are your only hope, the main advantage of microfinishing film is that it lasts longer than wet/dry sandpaper.
 
gunmike1 said:
I use 1 micron, .3 micron, and .05 micron sheets
Click to expand...

0.05 microns!?! :eek::eek::eek:

Please tell me thats a typo...

If you remember where you got them, would you be so kind as to share a link :)

EDIT: Never mind, just saw the above post. Thanks guys, like I wasnt OCD enough about sharpening. :p
 
0.05 microns, aka 400,000 mesh. I lent a santoku to gunmike1 and he touched up the edge on that stuff before sending it back. It was very impressive.

That said, it's the edge you form at 1,000 grit or lower that determines the limits of everything higher and those results can always be improved.

Although he sharpens woodworking tools instead of knives, read up on Brent Beach and see how he takes a 100 grit Norton Crystolon stone, those 15, 5, and 0.5 micron sheets (I think scarcity has driven him to 1 micron aluminum oxide sheets), and a little knowledge of microbevels to very sharp edges. Not all of it's directly applicable, but all of it's interesting.
 
So what would be a finer polish, 0.05 micron or compressed leather?

This is almost getting ridiculous....


I said ALMOST :D

The_Guide:cool:
 
Compressed leather has too many irregularities. Nylon film over a hard, flat surface embedded with the same abrasives has a greater chance for consistancy. Also, if you're snowed by all of the pro-convex talk (metal pipes are 100% convex, but no one brags about cutting with a candelabra), please note that microfinishing work for round or rounded surfaces is generally done with flat abrasives (and flat surfaces are polished with round abrasives).
 
I have imbibed too much single malt tonight for Thom's post to make sense. But he is one of Da Men when it comes to sharpening. So I'll try again tomorrow afternoon.
 
thombrogan said:
0.05 microns, aka 400,000 mesh. I lent a santoku to gunmike1 and he touched up the edge on that stuff before sending it back. It was very impressive.

That said, it's the edge you form at 1,000 grit or lower that determines the limits of everything higher and those results can always be improved.

Although he sharpens woodworking tools instead of knives, read up on Brent Beach and see how he takes a 100 grit Norton Crystolon stone, those 15, 5, and 0.5 micron sheets (I think scarcity has driven him to 1 micron aluminum oxide sheets), and a little knowledge of microbevels to very sharp edges. Not all of it's directly applicable, but all of it's interesting.
Click to expand...

0.5 micron is 60,000 mesh

0.25 is finer at 100,000 mesh


oops missed the zero
 
Last edited:
The product description on the Lee Valley webpage states that the 0.5 micron is chromium oxide. So wouldn't that be just like using green honing compound (i.e. chromium oxide) on a leather strop?
 
KarlMaldensNose said:
The product description on the Lee Valley webpage states that the 0.5 micron is chromium oxide. So wouldn't that be just like using green honing compound (i.e. chromium oxide) on a leather strop?
Click to expand...


Yep and thats why using diamond paste on leather is better and faster. Co'mon guys its the 21st century diamonds are a mans best friend.:D
 
thombrogan said:
0.05 microns, aka 400,000 mesh. I lent a santoku to gunmike1 and he touched up the edge on that stuff before sending it back. It was very impressive.

That said, it's the edge you form at 1,000 grit or lower that determines the limits of everything higher and those results can always be improved.

Although he sharpens woodworking tools instead of knives, read up on Brent Beach and see how he takes a 100 grit Norton Crystolon stone, those 15, 5, and 0.5 micron sheets (I think scarcity has driven him to 1 micron aluminum oxide sheets), and a little knowledge of microbevels to very sharp edges. Not all of it's directly applicable, but all of it's interesting.
Click to expand...

Listen to Thom. If my edge isn't whittling hair at 1000 grit I start over, and Brent Beach's work will teach you a lot. Like most of you, .05 microns is just my taste for overkill and OCD working rather than neccesity.

Mike
 
knifenut1013 said:
Yep and thats why using diamond paste on leather is better and faster. Co'mon guys its the 21st century diamonds are a mans best friend.
Click to expand...

Better how? At 0.5 microns and finer, how much difference in speed can one expect to find?

Bushman5 said:
I would love to see some of your edges vs a big douglas fir ...........
Click to expand...

When the edge is on a large bowie, it'll seem impressive, but it's really just the bowie enjoying itself. On a small pocketknife, it will be as unimpressive as the duller edges. On woodcarving, though, the edges will stand out quite a bit and be the difference between frustration and lightning bolts of pure awesome.

The_Guide said:
I spent some time at the link you suggested and I have to say thank you. It gave some pretty valuable insights towards the process of sharpening.
Click to expand...

Excellent! Soon, you'll have an understanding about which of our cherished sharpening myths have merit, which ones don't, and why it doesn't really matter either way. :cool:
 
Diamond compounds cut better and faster they also produce a sharper and more polished edge. My stropping time has been cut in half sence switching to diamond paste.
 
I have only used two different brands DMT and amplex, I would say that the amplex is the faster cutting of the two and yields a better finish but it is also twice the price.
 
I used Norton/St. Gobain. Works fine on leather, stupifying on a leather sanding belt, great on paper over glass, and not at all on felt Dremel wheels.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top