Hi! i just recieved my bushcrafter today and absolutly love it! I am not to familiar with 3v steel though. I've read that it is one of the most durable steels there is. In comparison to D2 steel how much more different is the steel? If Dan were to make a bushcrafter in D2 in exactly the same configuration and with the correct heat treatment. How much more different will the 2 steels be in comparison to one another? my main concern is the sharpenabilty and the blades ability to resist chips. The reason i ask this is......I hate D2! the last 2 knives i have had in D2 i could not sharpen for $h1T and one of them had a chip that seemed to take forever to get out. I really love the knife hopefully it aint as hard to sharpen
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3v question
- Thread starter rctk1
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- Joined
- Oct 23, 2005
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- 549
From my experience, 3V has the edge retention of M2 and the toughness of S7. It's probably the best of the best with the exception of INFI from what I've seen. You'll probably have similar sharpening experiences with this steel as you did with D2 UNLESS you use diamonds or Silicon Carbide stones which cut well and put a nice crisp edge on just about any steel. Norton stones has a medium silicon carbide and fine india combo stone nicknamed the Wayne Goddard stone that is excellent for your needs without breaking the bank. However, chances are your Bushcrafter is probably convexed so you'll probably want to retain the existing edge profile and learn to strop with CrO2 (Green) compound and sharpen with sandpaper on a leather backing. Check out Bark River's site for the best tutorial I've run across if you've never done it before ...
Hope this helps.
NJ
Hope this helps.
NJ
Typically the traditional "bushcraft"/pukko style has a scandi grind, which has a wide, flat bevel. Dans bushcraft is no different. Its an awesome knife and the 3V sharpens nicely with the Silicone Carbide or Diamond stones as Native suggested.
If you use sandpaper to sharpen, I would give it a solid flat backing like a piece of glass or wood. But I would just use whatever you have been for your D2 knife.
Cant give enough praise for your new knife from Koster, congratulations.:thumbup:
If you use sandpaper to sharpen, I would give it a solid flat backing like a piece of glass or wood. But I would just use whatever you have been for your D2 knife.
Cant give enough praise for your new knife from Koster, congratulations.:thumbup:
- Joined
- Mar 4, 2007
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- 371
I agree with NJ in that you need diamond stones to sharpen 3V as it's incredibly tough steel.
Only thing D2 has on 3V is it's a bit more rust resistant.
You should wipe 3V down with an oiled rag after use since it can develop rust pitting if neglected.
That doesn't mean it rusts easily, just needs a little extra care to prevent it.
Beyond that, 3v has it all over D2 as it's much tougher and far more impact resistant.
With the right heat treat, 3V doesn't chip and is awesome steel that will out perform anything except INFI.
I wouldn't ever consider ordering a medium to large custom knife with anything but 3V.
Have a massive custom knife in 3V on the way; can't wait to get it. :thumbup:
Sag.
Only thing D2 has on 3V is it's a bit more rust resistant.
You should wipe 3V down with an oiled rag after use since it can develop rust pitting if neglected.
That doesn't mean it rusts easily, just needs a little extra care to prevent it.
Beyond that, 3v has it all over D2 as it's much tougher and far more impact resistant.
With the right heat treat, 3V doesn't chip and is awesome steel that will out perform anything except INFI.
I wouldn't ever consider ordering a medium to large custom knife with anything but 3V.
Have a massive custom knife in 3V on the way; can't wait to get it. :thumbup:
Sag.
- Joined
- Oct 18, 2001
- Messages
- 20,978
3V is much easier to sharpen than D2, definitely.
And this is more true if done with diamond hones.
You can sharpen the bushcraft on a Sharpmaker....just make sure to hold the entire bevel flat against the hone. I set the angle at 25 degrees inclusive...so it will be a bit higher than the 30 degree setting on the sharpmaker. It is indeed a flat bevel...and I do not recommend putting on a secondary bevel.
The easiest sharpening system to use with these is the DMT diamond hones. Get one in a benchrest that is 2-sided (med and fine) and you're set. :thumbup:
Dan
And this is more true if done with diamond hones.
You can sharpen the bushcraft on a Sharpmaker....just make sure to hold the entire bevel flat against the hone. I set the angle at 25 degrees inclusive...so it will be a bit higher than the 30 degree setting on the sharpmaker. It is indeed a flat bevel...and I do not recommend putting on a secondary bevel.
The easiest sharpening system to use with these is the DMT diamond hones. Get one in a benchrest that is 2-sided (med and fine) and you're set. :thumbup:
Dan