3V steel, convex edge, sharpening?

K

KC8QVO

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Apr 7, 2011
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I have a Bark River Gunny in 3V that I put a flat grind on because I figured it would be easier for me to maintain with my Edge Pro. I have since upgraded my collection of accessories to include diamond strips on glass plates and balsa strops because "regular" methods (the stock wet stones and polishing tapes) don't cut it on 3V.

I ordered another knife in 3V and am contemplating keeping this one convex for something different. What sharpening methods should I look in to in order to get the edge really sharp? I consider an edge to be "sharp enough" when it feels sticky - as in the edge will grab my fingers when I run them across the edge. Under normal sharpening methods my Gunny feels like a butter knife when I run my fingers across it = the opposite of what I am after.

Most of the time I use my paper wheel set up to put an edge on a blade, and on top of that I like to set angles with my Edge Pro. In keeping the new knife convex the Edge Pro has to go. I suppose I may be able to use the stones on the table and roll the edge across it, rather than running the stones at a fixed angle in the machine. Then the question of refining the edge comes in to play still.
 
I sharpen all my convex knives using just plain 'ole sandpaper on a flat surface, if I had a really thin mousepad I might use it, but the ones I have are too thick and squishy and just round the edge. Depending on use i usually finish between 2k-5k grit then use a HA 0.5um loaded kangaroo strop. The edge doesn't look clean like it does after using my Wicked Edge, but it doesn't lack in performance. I spend much less time freehanding an edge back to sharpness than strapping it to a guided system.
 
Wet/dry on leather gives a little cushion for natural convexity.

If you freehand on stones, you will most likely end up with a convex edge anyway. You can consciously steepen your angle when sharpening freehand to get more convexity.
 
If you are just maintaining the edge and not worried about establishing a convexed edge, just strop it. I have several blades in 3V and that is what I do. A chunk of leather with diamond paste will get them very sharp. Just know that stropping is a bit of an art form and will take you a while to figure out exactly how much pressure and angle it takes to get really sharp. Practice, practice, practice.
 
The blade I am getting is the Bark River Bravo Necker in 3V, it is replacing an ESEE Izula II that was stolen last week (that's another story). The Izula II was my first fixed blade and I liked it a ton. As time wore on it became my utility knife because I used it so much it stayed on me working on towers and everything. I've been curious how 3V would hold up to the same environment so that's why I chose the Bravo Necker, and the standard one is still bigger than the Izula II so size-wise they are close but still aren't the same. I don't know what the edge is going to hold to as time goes on. I would touch up the Izula II about once a week, more if I used it hard. I have also chipped the Izula II quite a few times. I never ground out the chips entirely, I just let them wear out with time. I don't foresee chipping the 3V in the same manner, but I could still damage the edge enough that touching up with solely a strop and diamonds may not be enough.

I've found that my 600 grit wet stone is about as fine as I can go on my Edge Pro. After that I switch to 6 micron diamonds and work my way through 3 and 1 micron. I suppose I can try the same technique with the stone on the table and free-hand it, though once I hit the diamonds I'll have to do edge trailing strokes only.
 
I see. I have yet to damage an edge on any of my smaller (under 9 inches) 3V knives and I am pretty rough on them. I have needed to establish convexed edges on a few knives and after trying sandpaper and a mouse pad with no success I bought a worksharp. I know that sandpaper will work with lots of practice but being able to put a convex edge on a knife in a minute or two is pretty nice! I highly reccomended the worksharp but if you don't want to buy one, better get the sandpaper ready.
 
I have several Bark Rivers in CPM-3V including some Bravo Neckers. I maintain them all with loaded strops or wet/dry paper over leather or a firm pad. I have yet to experience a dent, chip or rolled edge with the 3V, but that has not been the case with my A2 or Sandvik Barkies. If I did need to repair them I would use the same method I use on my others, which is a belt sander. The Work Sharp belt sander, as mentioned, works great on these small blades.
 
3V is indeed a fairly wear-resistant steel, but its toughness can support thin edges and that helps allow it to be easy to maintain. By which I mean, it's not likely to chip or roll much if at all and it dulls slowly, so with a thin edge there's just not much to remove or polish away to get back to a nice crisp edge.

For rough work you can leave it at a coarse edge (400-600 grit). It will just shave hair, but the toothy edge will seem to stay sharp "forever".

On my 3V EDC, I sharpen on a 400-grit slack belt and strop on leather (smooth side) backed with wood, with a little green compound on the leather. I consider this a good general working edge.
 
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I've been wanting to try out a Barkie in 3V myself. I'm looking hard at the Aurora right now. I'm a big A2 fan, especially the way Bark River does it. I hear good things about their 3V also. I would imagine that even hitting close to 60HRC, 3V, when left thin at the edge should be fairly simple to strop back sharp. I use a strop to sharpen all of my knives, regardless of primary bevel or edge type. They all end up convexed eventually anyway and to me, that's a good thing.
 
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