3x3 Matrix for Gentleman's knife collection

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hkmadmax

Joined
Oct 21, 2020
Messages
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Hi there,

I collect knives in different themes, and for each one, I keep a maximum number of nine. I find this is a very effective way to control my collection size as it makes me think and search harder before I make the purchases.

There are rules for different themes, for the Gentleman's
- Manual and non-assisted
- The overall length needs to be between 6 to 7 inches
- Non-coating blade
- Black handle
- Each has a different lock mechanism. Not consider same mechanism with different names (e.g. Axis Lock and XR Lock)

And my list is...
1. Boker Voortrekker (Friction Lock, non locking)
2. Artisan Biome (Slip Joint, non locking)
3. ZT Anso 0235 (Detent Lock Slip Joint, non locking)
4. CIVIVI Rustic Gent (Lock Back)
5. CJRB Small Feldspar (Liner Lock)
6. Drop Ferrum Forge Gent (Frame Lock)
7. Benchmade Mini Bugout (Axis Lock)
8. Tangram Vector (Button Lock)

I still have one good old spot to fill.
Any thought may I have please?


50512540262_abe9dd8d2a_k.jpg

 
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hkmadmax said:
Hi there,

I collect knives in different themes, and for each one, I keep a maximum number of nine. I find this is a very effective way to control my collection size as it makes me think and search harder before I make the purchases.

There are rules for different themes, for the Gentleman's
- Manual and non-assisted
- The overall length needs to be between 6 to 7 inches
- Non-coating blade
- Black handle
- Each has a different lock mechanism. Not consider same mechanism with different names (e.g. Axis Lock and XR Lock)

And my list is...
1. Boker Voortrekker (Friction Lock, non locking)
2. Artisan Biome (Slip Joint, non locking)
3. ZT Anso 0235 (Detent Lock Slip Joint, non locking)
4. CIVIVI Rustic Gent (Lock Back)
5. CJRB Small Feldspar (Liner Lock)
6. Drop Ferrum Forge Gent (Frame Lock)
7. Benchmade Mini Bugout (Axis Lock)
8. Tangram Vector (Button Lock)

I still have one good old spot to fill.
Any thought may I have please?


50512540262_abe9dd8d2a_k.jpg

Click to expand...

Anything french provincial.
 
Marbles MR371 D2 Sowbelly stockman. View attachment 1441038 Why limit yourself to just one blade?

As an alternative:
A Barlow. They come with one or two blade, Clip point is the most common today, but you can find them with spear point, sheepsfoot, Razor/one armed, or spey main blades. The secondary (when applicable) is always a pen blade.
Lambsfoot.

Note: Most of the "Gentleman's Knives" of old were small sub 3.25 inches closed, and had covers of MOP, Ivory, and Sterling Silver.

The closest production knife today in size and blade selection to the old time/pre-war "Gentleman's Knife" is a SAK SD Classic, which is available with black covers.
 
So we have...
Opinel knife (Ring Lock)
Spyderco Lil’ Native (Compression Lock)

Also thinking of CRKT M40-2 (Deadbolt Lock)

Any other thoughts?
 
I got the CRKT M40-3 (deadbolt lock) brand new. Despite the high price for an off center lower end blade steel and lack of better quality handle scales I really liked the knife until the off center blade started to become a problem. Normally this does not bother me unless it starts rubbing on the handle and it did in short time. Apparently this thing came from the factory flawed and was assembled in a way to provided adequate centering until you start to use it.

I did manage to correct the problem with the usual methods of shimming while tightening the pivot but every single time the problem would come back after opening and closing the blade a few times (about 30 to 50 times) without any significant force. Now the side of the blade is starting to show a wear mark where it contacts the liner.

For the price they charge this is just unacceptable. Nothing pisses me off more than a persistent unfixable problem due to bad quality control.

This is a great design in fact perfect for the shape of the Kit Carson type knives with a lock that remedied the problem with their crap liner lock that I always despised but even with a great lock bad quality control is almost never going to go unnoticed by most people who are willing to pay this kind of money.

Too bad this is presented by CRKT in a way that has cheapskate written all over it.
 
greater said:
I got the CRKT M40-3 (deadbolt lock) brand new. Despite the high price for an off center lower end blade steel and lack of better quality handle scales I really liked the knife until the off center blade started to become a problem. Normally this does not bother me unless it starts rubbing on the handle and it did in short time. Apparently this thing came from the factory flawed and was assembled in a way to provided adequate centering until you start to use it.

I did manage to correct the problem with the usual methods of shimming while tightening the pivot but every single time the problem would come back after opening and closing the blade a few times (about 30 to 50 times) without any significant force. Now the side of the blade is starting to show a wear mark where it contacts the liner.

For the price they charge this is just unacceptable. Nothing pisses me off more than a persistent unfixable problem due to bad quality control.

This is a great design in fact perfect for the shape of the Kit Carson type knives with a lock that remedied the problem with their crap liner lock that I always despised but even with a great lock bad quality control is almost never going to go unnoticed by most people who are willing to pay this kind of money.

Too bad this is presented by CRKT in a way that has cheapskate written all over it.
Click to expand...
I hope you got a rare bad one and not the typical, I searched it up and thinking about buying one because I like the look. The flipper looks crazy big tho??
 
The flipper like all flippers can crack the blade open if bumped by accident. This thing has a separate adjustable retention screw that controls how much force is required to push the blade free but adjusting it also adjusts the amount of constant tension on the blade. A stronger detent also means stiffer blade opening so you have to find the sweet spot for both. This detent also diminishes the smooth action of the ball bearings with the deadbolt lock adding a little more tension. Regardless detent can be made very firm without rendering the action unusable.

The action would be greatly improved if they milled out a track for the ball of the retention spring to ride in a portion of the blade around the pivot after it's pushed past the detent. It would also help if the ball actually was able to spin instead just acting like a bump. but oh well cheapskates don't do things like that.

Despite the above the action can be made to have a decently workable smooth feel but the side of the blade rubbing off the liner just plain sucks and would have been an instant deal breaker on the spot had I have known.

I don't have these blade rub issues even in less expensive $30.00 (or less) folders.
 
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greater said:
The flipper like all flippers can crack the blade open if bumped by accident. This thing has a separate adjustable retention screw that controls how much force is required to push the blade free but adjusting it also adjusts the amount of constant tension on the blade. A stronger detent also means stiffer blade opening so you have to find the sweet spot for both. This detent also diminishes the smooth action of the ball bearings with the deadbolt lock adding a little more tension. Regardless detent can be made very firm without rendering the action unusable.

The action would be greatly improved if they milled out a track for the ball of the retention spring to ride in a portion of the blade around the pivot after it's pushed past the detent. It would also help if the ball actually was able to spin instead just acting like a bump. but oh well cheapskates don't do things like that.

Despite the above the action can be made to have a decently workable smooth feel but the side of the blade rubbing off the liner just plain sucks and would have been an instant deal breaker on the spot had I have known.

I don't have these blade rub issues even in less expensive $30.00 (or less) folders.
Click to expand...


As much as I liked the aesthetics, I think I will pass on this product.
 
I just fixed it again. It seems that the problem is the blade pivot screw (another weird setup) keeps coming loose and blue lock tite does not seem to cut it. The slight off centering remains and becomes a problem really quick when that screw starts to loosen and the blade detent tension spring pushes it over to the side.

I am really considering breaking out the red locktite and using it for the 1st time on a blade pivot screw. Maybe I should try that locktite priming stuff first. They say locktite does not always work on some metals that are stainless or treated hence the primer.

If I can get that pivot screw to stay put then so will that blade and I will be happy.
 
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Knife center exclusive Artisan Archaeo is a locking slip joint. Interesting design.
 
To be fair after fixing my CRKT M40 3 and flicking it open and closed over and over the blade is still centered good enough. I seems the picot screw is of the type of metal that needs to be primed before using blue locktite.

I didn't have primer so what I did was file down something that contains at least some copper and put s tiny amount of it in the acetone I use to clean the surfaces and in the locktite. I used a large amount of the blue locktite this time. I clogged the hole through the pivot screw where the lock pin goes through and needs to move freely partially unscrewed the pivot and liberally applied a large amount of locktie before tightening everything down. I then cleaned everything up with a pipe cleaner through the lock pin hole and tissue everywhere else.

It now holds after multiple opening and closing without coming loose. I don't know if my makeshift priming compound did it or just the fact that I when home with the locktite using a large amount.

I did not want to try red because if it does set right that thing will never unscrew without massive heat and hassle and even then it may not come out.

It has no blade play in any direction. provided the that pivot screw stays put, and solid lockup. In this condition It grows on me in a good way.

If this works out I may want to try the larger M40 15. I like the Kit Carson flippers.
 
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Good idea to stay away from the red Loctite, especially since the blue seems to be holding. If I recall, the red takes around 550 degrees to free up an assembly.
 
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