4 lb. True Temper Splitter/Chopper

J

John Frankl

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Oct 16, 2001
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I finally got around to reprofiling and regrinding this True Temper 4 pounder. It has a good overall shape, but it's pretty thick even up near the cutting edge. I was thinking about thinning it out quite a bit, but then realized it might be nice as both a grinding experiment and as a splitter. Here's what I got.

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And here is the edge geometry. It's pretty thick at the top, but still has good high cheeks.

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Here is the bottom, a bit thinner.

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And although it is fairly pitted and did have some slight mushrooming that had to be removed, here is a shot of the poll just to show it wasn't abused, just neglected.

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And here is a final one next to a 3+ pound Connecticut, just to show both its thickness and overall size.

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Now for some final thoughts on the grinding experiment. I really liked the bevels SkogKniv was laying down on some of his axes, so I asked him about it. He directed me to a video of him slack belt grinding, which is what I did for this axe.

1. Sharpest edge I've ever put on an axe. This thing is a bit thick, but it slices paper and shaves hair no problem. Will make a good combination splitter/chopper.

2. Difficult to get the thin edge geometry I wanted without grinding a lot of patina off the back of the axe.

3. I messed up the profile a bit, shortening the top and bottom of the edge (see first photo). I knew this might happen, but i wanted to see what would happen if I took a dinged up edge and ground it only with the slack belt. Next time I will reprofile first, true up the edges, rough grind parallel on a wheel, and then only finish on the slack belt to blend everything together.

Thanks for looking and any and all advice/comments appreciated.
 
I think you're right on the mark as far as using it as a splitter first and a chopper second. 4 lbs. makes a dandy splitter and the edge profile is right. The other place an axe like this is useful is as a knot-buster/limber. The fine profile of a dedicated chopper/feller shouldn't be risked on hard knots. Too easy to fold or chip an edge.

I folded the edge of a Craftsman hatchet last week. I was trying to knock off a few cedar knots. I figured - it's cedar, soft as can be, right? Knot!
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The wood might be soft but the knots are still hard.
 
Thanks, guys.

Yeah, I just happen to have one 36" handle left that feels a bit long for my 3 pounders. Should be great on this work horse. Will update this with some hanging photos soon.
 
Now for some final thoughts on the grinding experiment. I really liked the bevels SkogKniv was laying down on some of his axes, so I asked him about it. He directed me to a video of him slack belt grinding, which is what I did for this axe.

Nice work. Whats the link to the video,Would Like to see it.
 
Nice video. Must be one of those thin-cheeked Swedish axes in the first scene. It sticks on every blow. What fun to use.
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Got this one hung.

The only handle I had left was in pretty poor condition, uneven/chipped kerf, lopsided grind, overall fat, etc. So I used it as a chance to try a few new things.

1. Shaped a wedge out of quartersawn oak, which deformed in some interesting ways.

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I didn't completely fill all the voids, but considering the fairly miserable state of the handle when I started, I'm pretty happy.

Here it is hung, but with a pretty fat and lopsided (not really octagonal, bulging on one side, etc.) handle.

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Now here it is after being thinned and trued up on the grinder.

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And here filed, sanded, and one light coat of BLO.

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Finally, for comparison, next to another 36" handle from House that I didn't work down at all.

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This slimmed down version feels alot better in the hand, and still has plenty of meat left.
 
That's getting awfully close to the 'too thin' point on that handle. House handles aren't that fat to begin with. And with a splitter a little meatier handle ain't necessarily a bad thing. Just watch the overstrikes.
 
Thank you. I will be careful, and like I said this was somewhat of an unavoidable experiment with a handle that I was considering not using, so if I have to rehang eventually...

Also, compared to some of the older handles I have, it's not all that thin. They are all about 3/4 of an inch thick. The others range in width from 1.35 to 1.50 inches. This one is 1.25".
 
I don't mean to derail the thread, but...
Speaking of thin handles;

I was looking for a nice boys axe handle a couple of weeks ago. I eventually found a nice one from House in a hardware store in town.
The same store carries Link handles too, which are usual pretty good, especially the cruiser and boys axe handles.
Anyway, there was a link boys axe handle in there that was literally so thin that I could have snapped it in half with my hands. I did bend and flex it, but stopped before it snapped. I could 'whip' it in the air and it would flex :eek:
I think if I were to have got it and put a head on it, the darn thing would have just snapped in my hands when I made contact with a tree.
I just thought that it was crazy :)
 
bearhunter said:
I was looking for a nice boys axe handle a couple of weeks ago. I eventually found a nice one from House in a hardware store in town.
Click to expand...

I wish I had a local hardware store who stocked House Handles. At least I have one who stocks Tennessee Hickory.
 
Square_peg said:
I wish I had a local hardware store who stocked House Handles. At least I have one who stocks Tennessee Hickory.
Click to expand...

The local feed store (D&B Supply) that stocks House, only carries crap. They have maybe 1 in 20 that are acceptable to someone who's only marginally picky on handles. Many of them are warped. They must buy House's seconds or something cause they suck. I think Bear has the same experience with the locally stocked House handles....right, Bear?
 
M3mphis said:
The local feed store (D&B Supply) that stocks House, only carries crap. They have maybe 1 in 20 that are acceptable to someone who's only marginally picky on handles. Many of them are warped. They must buy House's seconds or something cause they suck. I think Bear has the same experience with the locally stocked House handles....right, Bear?
Click to expand...

You are absolutely right Memphis!
Although I did find a pretty good handle from House at the store, it was only one of two of many handles that was acceptable to use.

Pegs...
From my experience around here most of the handles they send out for the general public are CRAP :(
They defiantly aren't what folks seem to be getting through direct order. As Memphis said, the are warped with horrible grain, etc. . That's why I've always been hesitant to order any, but it seems that most folks are getting a quality product, so maybe it's time I order a couple and hope for the best ;)
 
They are good IF you make special requests for grain orientation, grade AA, etc. That said, even on the nicer ones, they cut the kerfs pretty sloppily.
 
I wish handle makers would just skip cutting the kerf entirely. I mean seriously, if you can't cut a kerf then you shouldn't be re-handling an axe anyway.
 
Agreed. I always have to cut it deeper anyway, and since it's crooked to begin with it usually gets worse:(
 
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