4" x 36" belt accessory

[Latticino]

Still searching for an option for easing the convex edge sharpening dilemma. Found this product on the web: http://www.pointgallery.com/sharpen/pages/intro.htm

Any of you experts use something like this?

Looks like it would work well for straight and convex profile blades, but the concave section of a Kukhri might be a problem. I don't know and have tried to sharpen an Indian "wall hanger" with my beater 4" x 36" stationary machine without this slack belt transformer with poor results. That may be due to my inexperience, or not having a slack belt though. I had to make do with riding the roller platten. Is a narrower belt required, or just advisable?

Thanks

 

[munk]

Hey, I'm a newbie to all this too, Latticino, but the first problem I see in a 4" belt is a four inch section of khuk is rarely straight across. A one or two inch section can be uniform, or nearly so. So the Four inch belt may be taking off more metal at one point of your blade than you'd like. Do you see what I mean?

I own a 4" by 36" and plan on using it when I can, but it is mostly a wood handle machine. (I think)


munk

 

[Svashtar]

I agree with Munk with regards to sharpening a khuk, but see how it could be useful for longer edges or other applications. I have the Craftsman 4X36, but offhand don't see how I could get that much slack into the belt to fit this device under it. (?)

Thanks,

Norm

 

[Kismet]

That guy is not going to have a thumbprint when he's done.

Maybe a criminal trying to foil identification?

High pain tolerance, though.

 

[Khukuri Monster]

If you have no other option, you can use the 4" wide belt to sharpen inside curves by using only the edge of the belt. Hang the thing you are sharpening off the edge of the belt at an angle. If you have a slack-belt attachment like that, the belt will conform slightly to the blade and you will get the effect of having a 1/2" wide belt (or whatever width of belt is actually contacting the blade). The problem with this is you will wear out the edges of the belt before the middle.

 

[Svashtar]

$16.95 is a good price for this. There is also a link provided to where you can get a 4" leather belt for about $36 I think. (Just checked, actually $39 and some change, plus S&H. Still not a bad deal for that much leather.)

Norm

 

[Yvsa]

If you have no other option, you can use the 4" wide belt to sharpen inside curves by using only the edge of the belt. Hang the thing you are sharpening off the edge of the belt at an angle. If you have a slack-belt attachment like that, the belt will conform slightly to the blade and you will get the effect of having a 1/2" wide belt (or whatever width of belt is actually contacting the blade). The problem with this is you will wear out the edges of the belt before the middle.

Yup.
Or you could cut an inch off the side of a four inch belt and see if it will track along the edge of the sander.
If it does then you're home free. I sometimes cut a 2" wide belt in two to make two 1" belts. I find them handy for sharpening in the recurve and also for very carefuly sanding handles.
On my 2" X 72" it can track in the center and still be alright.

 

[Aardvark]

That guy is not going to have a thumbprint when he's done.

Maybe a criminal trying to foil identification?

High pain tolerance, though.

Stone him!

 

[Latticino]

Thanks for all the good info guys

Will have to pick one up and try it out with an abbreviated belt (per YVSA's typically excellent suggestion). Like the leather belt idea also, but not sure if I should go for one until the system proves out, and then whether I should try to get a 4" wide version. Certainly wouldn't want to wear out the edges of a $40 belt to quickly... Maybe he sells thinner belts as well.

 

[Yvsa]

Thanks for all the good info guys

Will have to pick one up and try it out with an abbreviated belt (per YVSA's typically excellent suggestion). Like the leather belt idea also, but not sure if I should go for one until the system proves out, and then whether I should try to get a 4" wide version. Certainly wouldn't want to wear out the edges of a $40 belt to quickly... Maybe he sells thinner belts as well.

If you can buy a 1" X 36" belt that would be the way to go instead of cutting a 4" belt.
I don't know what sizes the small belts are.

 

[Khukuri Monster]

Will have to pick one up and try it out with an abbreviated belt (per YVSA's typically excellent suggestion). Like the leather belt idea also, but not sure if I should go for one until the system proves out, and then whether I should try to get a 4" wide version. Certainly wouldn't want to wear out the edges of a $40 belt to quickly... Maybe he sells thinner belts as well.

You won't really wear out a leather belt, even if you only use the edges. You apply rouge to the leather and that is what does the real work, when it stops cutting well you just stick some more rouge on there.

I would suggest going to a local leathercraft store (like Tandy or The Leather Factory) and picking up a small 4"x39" piece of veg-tan leather. (I used 8-9 oz. for my belt but that's just what I had, you may want something lighter). That's about 1 square foot, and should cost less than $10. You can get it for $3-4 per square foot but you might have to buy a whole side.

Then, overlap the ends, taper the areas where the leather overlaps, so there isn't a bump in the finished belt. It may also be a good idea to cut the ends of the strip at an angle, instead of having the ends perpendicular to the sides of the belt. Glue it with something strong, like barge cement. There, you've made your own leather belt for only a couple bucks.

Make sure you run it in the right direction, you don't want the thing you are sharpening to lift up on the flap that you've glued down.

If you want to make one that's only 1" wide, it would be even easier and cheaper, or you could buy a 7" wide chunk and make several sizes (4", 2", 1").