420HC Stainless Steel VS 50-100B Blade Steel

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CRossRifles2008

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What is better for a Hunting Knife, 420HC Stainless Steel VS 50-100B Blade Steel?

I believe that 50-100B is better and harder, since I heard it holds a edge better that 154 CM, which I am a fan of. I'm Trying to decide between a Buck Special (420HC Stainless Steel). Or a Bark River Knives: Custom 7 1/2" Bowie Fixed (50-100B Blade Steel). The knife will be used for dressing deer, and other animals. I have heard a lot of good things about Bark River. I'm not afraid of sharping difficulty, I have Diamond Stones so as to be able to set a 25 degree edge when sharping. Works good on my 154CM Covert Folder Gerber pocket knife. By the way if anyone knows the factory edge degrees on these blades that would great to know.

Thanks,
Brady
 
Well... a few things to consider. First, 50-100B is not a stainless steel, while 420HC is. In fact, 50-100B is quite prone to oxidation, and such you would either need to develop a patina on the blade (easy enough to do, either natural or forced) or you would need to take care to maintain the blade. Another thing, is that all BRKT are convex grinds. Hence, there is no "angle" that you sharpen it to. In most cases, stropping the convex edge is enough to maintain razor sharpness, if done on a regular basis. If the choice were mine, I would take the Bark River.
 
Apples and oranges, here. 50-100B is the better steel, as long as you don't mind it being non stainless and in need of care.
 
I have both and would happily exchange my BRKTs for Buck 420HC, e.g. Bravo 2 for Intrepid or Buck Strider +/- change. Buck's USA HT is consistent and gets the best from the 420HC, and it is stainless. I used to sharpen to 25 degrees, but have now gone to 20 degrees per side like my 154CMs and the Bucks are now outstanding.
 
The BRKT will be tougher and hold its edge longer, the buck will be more stain resistant, however if it were me I'd look at something a little smaller and with more belly, at least on the bark river side like the games keeper 1 (or 2 if you feel you need the extra blade length), montana guide 1 or 2, or the drop point hunter (in stainless 154cm and very likely to have a better heat treat than the gerber 154cm). Also take a look at these in S35VN (close to s30v but tougher if i remember correctly) http://www.knivesshipfree.com/Highland-Special-CPM35v The buck is much cheaper while still being good quality, you won't be as upset if you lose it while hunting, while the BRKT will be noticeably higher quality, better grip, better materials etc. Convex sharpening a BRKT is pretty easy.

http://www.knivesshipfree.com/pages/Sharpening-Videos Video Guide of how to convex sharpen

http://www.knivesshipfree.com/Sharpening-Supplies-526 sharpening supplies or you could just do the cheap mousepad and sandpaper method that still works quite well. also light and easy to roll up and carry on you if you need to in the field.
 
50100B is one of my favorite knife steels, the way Mike Stewart has it heat treated (around 58Rc) results in a blade that easily strops up scary sharp.

I generally stay away from low grade 420 steels, but the way Buck/Bos do their 420HC is first rate and makes for a great corrosion resistant knife blade.

But your question is really about finding a hunting knife, and I find a 3" to 4" fixed blade to the right size for most hunting tasks; I would look at knives like Bark River's - Woodland Special or Fox River, both come in A2 tool steel (a step up from the steels you mention IMHO).




Big Mike
 
Thanks for the information guys. About the 20 Degree Angle, you mean put a edge on it like a kitchen knife? I always heard the best angles for hunting and utility was 25 Degrees to 30 overall. Meaning like 15 Degrees either side to make 30. So you suggested 20 Degrees 10 either side to make 20. Which would be sharper, but not hold its edge as long right? Is this cause with hard steel Like 154CM it will hold its edge a while anyway?

http://smithsedge.com/products/product.asp?id=33&cid=4

This is what I use to sharpen right now. I use the top slot (25 Degrees). You guys say use the bottom slot (20 Degrees) Right?

PS: There are so many blade steels. Where do I find a table showing hardness, to rust resistant and overall stats? Cause I could throw up a 100 of these questions about the steel of the knives. I like My Gerber LMF II Infantry Knife has a 420HC or 12C27 Stainless Steel Blade. Its less than a year old and I guess the steel changed. Is that good? Should I Put the 20 Degree Edge on that too?
 
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I think they were recommending 20/side, 40 inclusive. If you're doing 30 inclusive, that should cut fine. If stainless is important to you, then there is really no choice here. If you dont mind the potential for rust, its a tougher choice. From tests I've seen here, Buck's 420HC gets to the same range of 58-59 HRC as referenced for BRKT. Personally, I'd go with the 420HC. If you're already happy with 154CM, why not go with something made from that? You could find something to suit your needs, but it will be more expensive than the Buck. I don't know about the $$ for a BRKT, I've never priced them.
 
I've seen quite a few test in which Buck's 420 HC edge out performed all of the super steels, but one. The one example was a new steel heat treated to RC 62. I think most people loose site of what a proper heat treat does to a good steel vs poor or adverage heat treat to most of the super steels on the market.

As far as the 25 degree angle per side on a hunting/outdoor knife goes. if you are choping wood leave it. If your processing game and using a knife as knives are intended you be much happier with a 20 degree edge. To be perfectly frank about it, my "hunting" knives that only process game from field to freezer have 15 degree edges on them.

I've tried hundreds of knives over the years because I like to prove theories rather than read and believe. I've learned survival knifes, wide belly drop points, and in general most of what is sold today performs poorly. The old school guys had it right. A thin narrow 3 3/4" to 4" blade is the best all round do everything blade. I've seen one 5" skinny blade that performed one field dressing tast a little better, but it performed worse on processing task.

Big wide and fat blades, when they lose their edge, are nothing more then hatchets. I good quality thin, narrow blade still cuts even after the super sharp edge is worn away. However, if you are simply field dressing a deer or pig and knife will work.
 
cultivateitnow said:
I've seen quite a few test in which Buck's 420 HC edge out performed all of the super steels, but one. The one example was a new steel heat treated to RC 62. I think most people loose site of what a proper heat treat does to a good steel vs poor or adverage heat treat to most of the super steels on the market.

As far as the 25 degree angle per side on a hunting/outdoor knife goes. if you are choping wood leave it. If your processing game and using a knife as knives are intended you be much happier with a 20 degree edge. To be perfectly frank about it, my "hunting" knives that only process game from field to freezer have 15 degree edges on them.

I've tried hundreds of knives over the years because I like to prove theories rather than read and believe. I've learned survival knifes, wide belly drop points, and in general most of what is sold today performs poorly. The old school guys had it right. A thin narrow 3 3/4" to 4" blade is the best all round do everything blade. I've seen one 5" skinny blade that performed one field dressing tast a little better, but it performed worse on processing task.

Big wide and fat blades, when they lose their edge, are nothing more then hatchets. I good quality thin, narrow blade still cuts even after the super sharp edge is worn away. However, if you are simply field dressing a deer or pig and knife will work.
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I'd like to see those tests. I'm not downing Buck, but I don't think 420HC out-performs a lot of the super-steels available today.
 
Vicarious Reality said:
This is the first time i ever heard of a steel called 50-100b
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Probably not the first time you've used it, however. Several factories used/use it. Case's Chrome Vanadium is more than likely 50-100B. It's good stuff; just not even remotely stainless. I like it a lot. It patinas very cool colors, very easily.
 
cultivateitnow said:
...using a knife as knives are intended you be much happier with a 20 degree edge.
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I am alwasy amused by this idea. Knives are designed for many things, some for chopping, some for fine cutting, some for cutting certain material at the expense of othersl. The knife designer gets to determine the intended use. If knives were intended only for this type of cutting, they'd all be 1/16" or less, and much harder than today's norm, and I'd be perfectly happy with that.
 
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