420HC Steel and Chips

Joined
Sep 8, 2013
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I noticed that the edge that I put on my 110 was chipped (from craving wood objects) so I used my Lansky sharpener and put a new edge on it. The edge was extremely sharp due to the extra fine polishing hone that came with the kit. Unfortunately, after whittling hardwood, the blade was once again chipping. This time, I decided to only used the fine polishing hone (refer than the extra fine hone) in order to create a "less thin" edge. Currently the less thin edge seems to be more resistant to chipping.

Has anyone found that if they sharpen 420HC to a really fine edge that it chips when used? or if a less fine edge holds up better? Any insights into sharping 420HC would be great. Thanks.
 
I'm interpreting "fine" to mean the grit size you are using. If that's correct, then no, a fine edge (highly polished) shouldn't affect things badly. I like 420HC, and found it pretty tough as stainless steels go.

Is the edge perhaps too thin of an angle? You can always try putting a micro bevel on the edge, that helps me out sometimes, and is easy to maintain.

http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php/634739-Microbevels
 
Yes, sounds more like a case of angle being a too steep, resulting in a fragile edge.

If slightly thicker, chipping would not happen.
 
I'd been using the 20 degree angle on the Lansky. I'll have to try 25 degrees. Do you guys think the angles on the Lansky are accurate to what they are labelled as?
 
I'd been using the 20 degree angle on the Lansky. I'll have to try 25 degrees. Do you guys think the angles on the Lansky are accurate to what they are labelled as?

There are way too many variables in that system to rely on the marked angles. My suggestion is to sharpen at 20* (don't worry about getting the edge too sharp at this point) and then finish on the 25* slot. Strop the edge and retest edge performance. If still chips, sharpen at 25* and strop and retest. Hope this helps.
 
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