440c Buck 110 Performance

C

carbonsteelfan

Joined
May 29, 2014
Messages
382
Hello gentlemen,
I am new to Buck knives. Most of my folders are Spyderco , Bench made and Schrade 1095 carbon steel old timers.
My current EDC is a Stainless steel Handled Spyderco Delica with a plain edge VG-10 blade. This morning my maternal grandfather gifted me a Buck 110 lock back knife which HIS father gave him in 1977. It has a 440c stainless steel blade.
I don't know much about Buck knives but my grandfather is a big time patron of Buck folders . He owns a Buck Marksman in 154cm. The 440c Buck 110 which l got looks really good and l wish to EDC it. But l just wanted to know how this knife performs. How is the edge retention ; toughness ; corrosion resistance and ease of Sharpening. I don't abuse my knives but l do use them for hard work like gutting and cleaning game which l hunt , among other things. Since this knife is a gift , l don't want to do anything that is harmful to the knife. I did a little research on the knife online. Chuck Buck Sr. Said that the reason Buck stopped using 440c in their knives was because the steel had large carbides which caused it to dull fast.
CJ Buck said that 440c was very prone to rust , pitting and breaking half moons out of the blades of users. These comments scare me a bit. My grandfather ( when giving me the knife ) smirked and told me not to try sharpening the knife unless l had a whole free day. What can you guys tell me about the performance of Buck 440c ? In terms of :
1) Edge holding
2) Toughness
3) Ease of sharpening
4) Rusting and pitting
Really appreciate the help.
 
It is a great hunting knife. I've gutted and seen a lot of gutted game from the 110.

I dont know why your grandfather had a hard time sharpening the knife. I free hand using water stones and have yet to have trouble with any Buck blade in 440.

They are inexpensive and a great value for the money.
 
I found a quote for you:

Joe Houser said:
That part of the history is still somewhat foggy. I am pretty sure that we did not have fineblanked parts until we moved into the Weld Blvd. address. The switch from 440c to 425mod was made because you cant fineblank 440c very long before your dies wear out/break.
It is my understanding that if you see a 500 series with a dot after the model number, this was done to indicate that the blade was fineblanked.
I dont know when each model was switched to fineblank from conventional blank. Fixed blade, folders...too many questions and not much data.
Could we assume that some models were made in 440c in the Weld factory? I've heard that it took a while to get the presses working so depending on how long "a while" was, I'd have to say yes, its possible we were still using 440c after the move to Weld although I could not tell you what models.
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Bolded the important tidbit. Later the switch was made to 420hc.
 
Keep in mind that I'm not sure what steel my 110 has and that I can't address any changes in the knife since the 1970s except to say that my 112, given to me NIB in 1998, is just as good and it probably has different steel.

There are so many 110s from long ago still doing yeoman service that I am surprised to read your post, Carbonsteelfan. My 110 was put through the wringer by my brother, who first got it in the mid to late 1970s (and I almost use the term literally as that knife, in its sheath, went though many loads of laundry by accident). The blade sharpens easily (and I'm profoundly mediocre at sharpening), seldom needs touching up, the grips are still intact, and there are only a couple of modest patina spots on the blade -- absolutely no rust.

Larry used this knife for everything everyday all the time for over twenty years: Cut rope/leather/cloth/canvas/plastic, scored sheetrock, stripped wire, made kindling for fires, gutted fish, prepped chickens, sliced meat, and shamefully did some tasks he knew and we all know not to do (tightened Phillips screws, pried wood, hammered small nails).

I have hunted and fished and done barn chores with this knife with great success and found it as good a tool as Larry did. Like him, I go to the SAK for multitool tasks. Unlike him, I use my BK-15 pretty regularly, too.

The 110 is more than a workhorse, more than an icon, more than a useful knife. But you may have to use it for a while to appreciate it. Give it a whirl.

I'll post some pics later.

Zieg
 
I'm surprised Al and Chuck said that. I think Sit's post of Joe H. statement is more accurate. 440C is a very good cutlery steel. No rust problems and it will hold a edge right with 154 cm. It can be difficult to sharpen using Arkansas stones. It presents no problem when using carborundum, India and diamond stones. It takes and holds a nice edge and should out preform most carbon steels. I've field dress several deer using this steel and model with no problems. And not cleaning the knife until the next day. Which showed no rust. Give it a test drive and let us know what you think. DM
 
The 440C steel in Buck Knives was the best they ever had for regular production. They ran the Rockwell hard with their heat treat so it was a bit more difficult to sharpen than the current 420HC. However, if you are sharpening Spydercos then you should not have any problems. 440C is very rust resistant. I am skeptical of the CJ Buck quote about it rusting and having big carbides so it did not hold an edge and the blades would break. Nonsense. Mine has been through stuff no knife should be put through and is still strong and sharp. The most likely reason is the Houser comment for why Buck changed to 425, a lesser steel in the 440A class, being purely for production costs and methods.
Use that knife. It is good and strong. I doubt there is a stronger knife in your collection.
 
Sir , l found the site where Chuck Buck Sr. Made the statement. Jeff Hubbard ( the quality control manager r of Buck knives ) posted it here in Blade forums. The thread is called " steel history of Bucks " . It is about an interview from Chuck Buck Sr. In 1999. Go ahead. Check it out.
I myself have sharpened 440c before - a Robert Parrish Hollow handle survivor knife. It's not hard and l really like it. Please forgive my paranoid nature. I just don't want anything bad to happen to the knife.
 
carbonsteelfan, the knife will hold up just fine, just be careful with the tip, no prying, the older 110's had a very narrow tip, but I really like the slim clip design of those one's. There were a lot of folks who snapped tips on them doing things they weren't meant for.
 
carbon, I seem to recall that statement Chuck made with some wonder. As that has not been my experience with that steel. We are not doubting you. I think our experiences just differ from that. I've heard the comments about 440C having large grains. This can be reduced in heat treating. But it will never be as small as those of powder metallurgy. The rusting concern has not been my experience either. If you can sharpen VG10 you'll have no problem with 440C. What is the stamping on the blade? DM
 
David Martin said:
carbon, I seem to recall that statement Chuck made with some wonder. As that has not been my experience with that steel. We are not doubting you. I think our experiences just differ from that. I've heard the comments about 440C having large grains. This can be reduced in heat treating. But it will never be as small as those of powder metallurgy. The rusting concern has not been my experience either. If you can sharpen VG10 you'll have no problem with 440C. What is the stamping on the blade? DM
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The Blade has Buck custom USA stamped on it The blade is a convex grind . I was using the knife a little while ago to cut open a Turkey. You guys were right . The blade went through the turkey like a hot knife though butter. I am most pleased. . The edge does seem thick though
 
David Martin said:
What stone do you use to sharpen your vg10? DM
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I use a Spyderco Sharpmaker with ceramic rods for the VG-10. I also own a lansky , Diamond hones , silicone carbide , and basic Arkansas stones. Oh , l sharpen my Robert Parrish 440c knife with an EZ Lap sharpener.
 
sitflyer said:
carbonsteelfan, the knife will hold up just fine, just be careful with the tip, no prying, the older 110's had a very narrow tip, but I really like the slim clip design of those one's. There were a lot of folks who snapped tips on them doing things they weren't meant for.
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I echo this. My grandfather also gifted me his 110. Many of the OTHER knives I have from him have broken tips. It seems he frequently pryed things open, and used his knife tips to tighten screws. As a tough cutter, it's a fine knife. I'm changing my family heritage by using screwdrivers for screws, pry bars for prying, and knives for cutting. Cheers!
 
There is some information in error in this topic. Carbon said this occured in 1977. Buck's Custom Shop started crafting knives in Jan. 1981.
The 1st were stamped Buck(over) usa. After several months they began stamping them: Buck /Custom/ USA and there should be a serial number on it somewhere. A 3 digit or 4 digit number. Look for some initials too. As those should be present. I've visited at length with the 1st early craftsman in that shop and he informed me 440C was used in those knives. Still, a full hollow grind was started that year. So yours should have that as well. A pile of sound research I've looked up on your knife. DM
 
David Martin said:
There is some information in error in this topic. Carbon said this occured in 1977. Buck's Custom Shop started crafting knives in Jan. 1981.
The 1st were stamped Buck(over) usa. After several months they began stamping them: Buck /Custom/ USA and there should be a serial number on it somewhere. A 3 digit or 4 digit number. Look for some initials too. As those should be present. I've visited at length with the 1st early craftsman in that shop and he informed me 440C was used in those knives. Still, a full hollow grind was started that year. So yours should have that as well. A pile of sound research I've looked up on your knife. DM
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Mr. Martin , you got it right. My grandfather didn't receive the knife in 1977. I asked him again today. He said " Late 70. Early 80c ish" l checked for a serial number. It has " 0043" on it. And it definitely has " Buck Custom USA " on it. The handles are stag , which is unusual since most of the buck knives l have seen have wood handles. But it looks amazing and cuts real smooth.
 
Ok, great. The 3 digit serial numbers were employee service awards and the 4 digit are regular custom knives. Keep looking for those initials as they would hide them. During the first 6 mos. of the Custom Shop the knives were satin finished. Later, the blades were mirror polished. With your early serial number I would suspect it to be satin finished. Hope this helps pin point it's date of mfg.. DM
 
I live in Atlantic Canada,salt air and salt water surrounds me,and I've yet to see my 440c 110 rust.I will go out on a limb and say the 440c will hold an edge just as long as a modern s30 v blade will,provided it has a full convex edge,it will cut like mad.I re profile my edges to full convex and turn them from decent cutters to animals.lol
 
RAZORBLADES said:
I live in Atlantic Canada,salt air and salt water surrounds me,and I've yet to see my 440c 110 rust.I will go out on a limb and say the 440c will hold an edge just as long as a modern s30 v blade will,provided it has a full convex edge,it will cut like mad.I re profile my edges to full convex and turn them from decent cutters to animals.lol
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I have yet to sharpen the knife , sir but l just used it to Gut a fish. I really like the edge on this one. It cuts as good as Spyderco VG-10. Nice and smooth . Minimal effort.
 
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