440C cold rolled or hot rolled for heat treatment

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Apr 3, 2025
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Hi folks,

I'm not a knife maker, just a part time machinist, but I thought you folks would have the most experience with my particular questions please.

I have a potential customer who needs some parts made from 440C. These are relatively small parts 1-1/4" round stock, a couple inches long. I've no experience at all in heat treating, and don't look to do it myself.
Since the parts are thicker, they would require more heat soak. The thickest part of these little cylinders is about 1/2" after boring a blind hole in the center.

My questions are this please. Cold roll carbon steels deform under treatment, but I had read 440C cold rolled deforms less than 440C hot rolled. Is that true?

Cold rolled is more available for this small job, so I'd rather use that if possible. The machined part will have 1/2"-13 threads in the center, will those deform noticeably after heat treatment? That's what I'm most concerned about.

Also the part doesn't have much stress on it. It just goes in and out a metal orifice to stop or allow for water flow under significant pressure. It must made of hardened stainless because the water erodes the stainless steel away. But it really doesn't need toughness, I think (but again this is out of my realm of experience). Do you think the part would need to be tempered after hardening?

Lastly, do you have any cost effective suggestions for someone who might harden these parts for me? The problem is the most I would make would be something less than 10 of the parts. In fact, I'd probably like to try just one first to see how it turns out. Most places I've checked have large minimums orders. I get that. They need to fill their furnaces up in order to make it economical. But I'm wondering if there is someone out there with a small furnace who specializes more in small orders?

I'm just trying to get an idea what this might cost, so I can give an accurate quote. Thanks!
 
If you had a location, someone on here might be your neighbor, to help you heat treat , but i think hot and cold are close to the same i cold be wrong ,but the cold rolling process causes work hardening making the cold rolled surface better and the steel hard ,much like work hardening when machining it some times it gets to the impossible point.
 
Make the thread about 65% and you shouldn't notice any issue with heat treat deforming the threads.

How hard does it need to be? You could always machine critical surfaces after heat treat.
 
Make the thread about 65% and you shouldn't notice any issue with heat treat deforming the threads.

How hard does it need to be? You could always machine critical surfaces after heat treat.
I'd like to get it to Rockwell 60.

Thanks. Is the reason you are suggesting a 65% thread engagement is because heat treating will deform the threads some? The parts don't take a lot of machining. Just a taper cut on one end of the round stock. On the other end a blind hole drilled and tapped with a 1/2-13 thread and also a counter bore (for an o-ring) in that end. Finally the part is cross-drilled and threaded 1/4-20.

Machining and drilling isn't bad in hardened stuff, but there's no way I could tap Rockwell 60 steel, at least not with the equipment I own.

I'm in the Kansas City area. The more I think about it, I wonder if I should have the parts hardened and tempered? I'd hate for threads to break because they are too brittle.
 
There are many things that affect the distortion in heat treating.

Prior condition, which includes cold rolling, is one thing.

Austenitizing temperature, tempering temperature, sub-zero or cryogenic treatments, soak time, rate of heating, rate of cooling, chemical composition of the melt, are some of the things that affect distortion.

As a general rule, steel grows in hardening and shrinks some in tempering for a net growth.

If these parts are relatively small, you probably won’t have a problem. Distortion is a greater problem for larger parts.

Hoss
 
There are many things that affect the distortion in heat treating.

If these parts are relatively small, you probably won’t have a problem. Distortion is a greater problem for larger parts.

Hoss
Thanks. They are pretty small. About 2" long and 1-1/4" round. I could always just cut the threads first have it hardened and do the rest of the machining operations after. These kinds of issues are why I'm interested in just hardening one part first. Hate to mess up a whole batch.
 
I'd like to get it to Rockwell 60.

Thanks. Is the reason you are suggesting a 65% thread engagement is because heat treating will deform the threads some? The parts don't take a lot of machining. Just a taper cut on one end of the round stock. On the other end a blind hole drilled and tapped with a 1/2-13 thread and also a counter bore (for an o-ring) in that end. Finally the part is cross-drilled and threaded 1/4-20.

Machining and drilling isn't bad in hardened stuff, but there's no way I could tap Rockwell 60 steel, at least not with the equipment I own.

I'm in the Kansas City area. The more I think about it, I wonder if I should have the parts hardened and tempered? I'd hate for threads to break because they are too brittle.
Yes, you definitely want to do all the drilling and threading before heat treat. A 65% thread in hardened 440c will have plenty of strength and will be easier to thread in the first place (much lower chance of breaking a tap). A 70-75% thread could get tight on you after heat treat. If you are worried about it getting brittle, then temper to a hardness in the 50s. With a round profile you shouldn't have any significant distortion. Maybe some diameter change and a decrease in surface finish. If either of those could be a problem, then plan to hard turn them afterwards and they will be really nice then. Just leave .02 on the diameters.
 
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