50$ wood stabilizer

While trying to fill the grain and pores in various wood that I use for knife handles, I came accross the following process.
Min-Wax makes a product called wood hardener. I put some wood handle blanks in a 2 quart mason jar. Fill with enough wood hardener to cover leaving 2 inches at the top.punch a hole in the top put a piece of i\4 inch brass tube in and seal with goop.
Go down to the auto store and buy a vacumn hand pump used for blake work. Attach the plastic tube to the jar and pump away.I get a 20 to 24 inch of vacum. The air really comes out and creates a froth.I leave the wood in the wood hardener 3-4 days.No guarantees but it seems to be working. If you try it let me know how it works for you.
The pump $42
The jars $7
The rest you have to find out behind the garage.
Top Knife Curly KOA
Iron Wood
Maple
[url="http://albums.photopoint.com/j/View?u=94000&a=5403274&p=27646206&Sequence=0"]http://albums.photopoint.com/j/View?u=94000&a=5403274&p=27646206&Sequence=0[/url] [/img

[This message has been edited by TJ Smith (edited 09-04-2000).]

[This message has been edited by TJ Smith (edited 09-04-2000).]

[This message has been edited by TJ Smith (edited 09-04-2000).]

[This message has been edited by TJ Smith (edited 09-04-2000).]
 
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I'm really impressed with the Koa. It's a pretty porous wood. Nice!

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Jerry Hossom
www.hossom.com
The Tom & Jerry Show

[This message has been edited by GaKnife (edited 09-04-2000).]

[This message has been edited by GaKnife (edited 09-04-2000).]
 
Joined
Mar 26, 2000
Messages
658
TJ
Have you cut a block of your treated wood in half or sectioned it to check for penitration? Second idea to test your procedure is to weigh those peices of wood, then put them in water for 3or 4 days then weigh them again. If they gained any weight they have absorbed water, you might want to measure them before and after soaking in water to get some idea of dimentional stability.
Have you tried this with antler???
Let us know!!!

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Robert
Flat Land Knife Works
rdblad@telusplanet.net
http://members.tripod.com/knifeworks/index.html

[This message has been edited by R Dockrell (edited 09-04-2000).]
 
I know using a vacuum is the norm for wood stabilization, but why doesn't pressure work better?? It looks like putting the wood and wood hardener under pressure would make more get into the pores of the wood. They make dymondwood under pressure.

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Always think of your fellow knife makers as partners in the search for the perfect blade, not as people trying to compete with you and your work!
http://www.nebsnow.com/L6steel
Buzzards gotta eat, same as worms!!!
 
Do you leave it under a vacuum during the 3-4 day soak period?
Could you maybe use an electric Vacuum pump?
I would bet you could pick one up cheap on Ebay or a surplus store?
Any thoughts?
I am going to try this one. By the time I pay K&G for several sets of handles the stabilizer will almost pay for itself
biggrin.gif
 
I haven't tried this on antler but I think it would make a difference.
All I have done is soaked several pieces of wood, under vacum, as the air really comes out. This makes it eaiser for the solution to penetrate.Also air pressure at sea level
is 14 something pounds per square inch. some of the wood ,after 4 days, has actually sunk to the bottom of the jar.
I haven't tried soaking any knife handles in water and don't plan on it.
I am just passing on an idea work with it if you like.
Take Care
TJ
 
Hey TJ, you're a real innovator. I read your post the same day you put it in. I don't know if this will muddy the water or not, but here's an add-on to your vaccum rig.

I bought my wife a vaccum packager (Food Saver Compact II by Tilia) from The Sportsmans Guide last year for $99.00. It isn't one of the cheap fan-type jobs. It acually has a vaccum pump in it. You know, the kind of kitchen appliance you use to store leftovers in heat sealed plastic bags. Well, it also came with a quart jar attachment. It lets you seal the lid of a mason jar onto the quart jar just like in canning on the stove.

It's pretty cool too. You put the lid on the jar and then the attachment on top of that, hook your hose up and run a vaccum on it. The lid sucks down and seals completely (you could use your trusty hand pump). You could leave the wood or antler in the solution under a vaccum indefinately.

What I'm getting at is that the attachment can be bought separately and you could substitute it for the one you made with the copper tube in it. I'm not sure how much it costs, but if you get the sportsmans guide, it's in there. If you don't get the sportsmans guide, they're online. Here's the link: http://www.sportsmansguide.com

I'm probably just wastin' sparks computer ink here, but here's a source to buy the attachment online, Sportsmans Guide just sells the Vacuum packager kit: http://store.custsvc.com/suresource/ShopXpress?P=vacutopacc&S=tilia&I=22015.5854

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M.Ogg

"It's better to be thought a fool and remain silent, than to open your mouth and remove all doubt"

[This message has been edited by MaxTheKnife (edited 09-12-2000).]

[This message has been edited by MaxTheKnife (edited 09-12-2000).]
 
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