I`ve been comissioned to make a 6" blade swept point hunter. He wants it make from 5160 because he works for a company that sells leafsprings. It will be replacing a Buck Special. He requested the blade length ,swept clip point,blued finish. My problem is that he wants much better edge holding than the Buck and still wants to use it to chop through bone. I made the blade profile just slightly wider and made the profile of the grip somewhat similar to the Buck (which he`s used to) and added a mild finger groove and integral guard. I`m planning to use a full width convex grind (to back up the edge) and temper it to around 58-59RC. What do you guys think,is this the way to go? I`m open to suggestions. Any other tips on hunting blades are also welcome since this is my first built for just that purpose. Marcus
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5160 6" FB hunter advice
- Thread starter Marcus
- Start date
- Joined
- Jul 23, 1999
- Messages
- 1,409
You have the right idea. 5160, properly heat treated should easily handle all the requirement you mention. Some my disagree, but with a multiple quench, the only thing that I have ever seen out preform 5160 is 52100. I use the word preform based not only on cutting ability, but on the combined characteristics of cutting, toughness, and flexibility. What I call "The Overall Package" At an Rc of 57-59, you convex grind should nearly terminate at the edge (very small edge bevels) and by putting a distal taper on the blade, durability is improved even more. If you have specific questions, drop me a line off forum.
http://www.mtn-webtech.com/~caffrey
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Ed Caffrey
"The Montana Bladesmith"
http://www.mtn-webtech.com/~caffrey
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Ed Caffrey
"The Montana Bladesmith"
The only other thing that would enhance performance would be an Ln2 quench.
I wasn't sure by your post wheather or not
you are forging or stock removal. Forging
will also enhance the preformance.
goshawk
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http://www.imt.net/~goshawk The race is not always to the swift, but he who hangs loose.
Don't walk in tradition just because it feels good!!!!!
Romans 10:9,10
Psalm 91
I wasn't sure by your post wheather or not
you are forging or stock removal. Forging
will also enhance the preformance.
goshawk
------------------
http://www.imt.net/~goshawk The race is not always to the swift, but he who hangs loose.
Don't walk in tradition just because it feels good!!!!!
Romans 10:9,10
Psalm 91
Stock removal. The fellow I`m making it for had heard that great knives could be made from leaf springs but had never seen/used one so when someone mentioned to him that I made some knives out of it (5160) he gave me enough new 3/16 leafspring stock to make about 15 knives as a deposit on his hunter (he works for a company that makes leaf springs). Pretty cool huh? He also said that if he likes it he`ll hook me up with all the 5160 stock I want for cost. Needless to say I wanna make him happy!
Marcus PS Any suggestions for cold bluing 5160? I`ve had mixed luck with it.
I can't think of anyone better than Ed to walk you through the heat treating of the 5160, and the distal blade taper and edge geometry he suggested is right on. Even if it is a stock removal blade, you can get good performance if its ground right, and heat treated right.
You won't get better edge holding than the Buck stainless, but it will seem like it if you get a nice thin edge on there. Plus, it will be a heck of a lot easier to resharpen.
madpoet
You won't get better edge holding than the Buck stainless, but it will seem like it if you get a nice thin edge on there. Plus, it will be a heck of a lot easier to resharpen.
madpoet
- Joined
- May 18, 1999
- Messages
- 15,395
:
Marcus the two biggest reasons to have mixed luck with cold blue is cleanliness and temperature.
On smaller pieces up to CS Trailmaster size I run very hot water over the blade until it is warm through and the water evaporates immediately. Then I use cotton balls to put the blue on with and never touch the blade with skin until I am done with it. I usually put on about 3 coats and the worst it has ever done was look similiar to case hardened blue and I like that color too.
I clean the blade with alcohol or something similiar before I start the hot water too.
I have always had good luck with it since I started using warm metal.
I have evn done some gun barrels and I put them in a low temp oven,about 160* until they are warm through and the water evaporates quickly.
It worked out fine.
------------------
>>>>---¥vsa---->®
The civilized man sleeps behind locked doors in the city while the naked savage sleeps (with a knife) in a open hut in the jungle.
Marcus the two biggest reasons to have mixed luck with cold blue is cleanliness and temperature.
On smaller pieces up to CS Trailmaster size I run very hot water over the blade until it is warm through and the water evaporates immediately. Then I use cotton balls to put the blue on with and never touch the blade with skin until I am done with it. I usually put on about 3 coats and the worst it has ever done was look similiar to case hardened blue and I like that color too.
I clean the blade with alcohol or something similiar before I start the hot water too.
I have always had good luck with it since I started using warm metal.
I have evn done some gun barrels and I put them in a low temp oven,about 160* until they are warm through and the water evaporates quickly.
It worked out fine.
------------------
>>>>---¥vsa---->®
The civilized man sleeps behind locked doors in the city while the naked savage sleeps (with a knife) in a open hut in the jungle.
