5160 and 440C

BP_

BP_

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It’s usually my 3 dot 110 when I carry a 110 and I am more than happy with it. Ol blue got some time, as have a few others, but the 3 dot always sneaks back in when it’s full size 110 time. Takes an edge, holds an edge, and has just been a great reliable companion.

That said, I have never used 5160 on any knife in any variation. I am generally not a big fan of carbon steels. But they’re growing on me (slowly). Matter of fact I have a couple GEC’s I’ve been meaning to move along that are good ‘n used. Just never been a huge carbon fan. I’m coming around though the older I get.

Why do I need a 5160 110 instead of my 440C? I know nothing of durability, edge holding ability, or corrosion resistance compared to any other carbons. Advantages? Disadvantages? Comparisons? Please educate me. I’ve been considering but not yet convinced.

Happy Sunday, all. :thumbsup:
 
BP_ said:
Why do I need a 5160 110 instead of my 440C?
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In my opinion you don't need 5160 instead of 440C. If you can sharpen 440C, it will hold an edge better and is easier to care for. 5160 is easier to sharpen but not as durable. 5160 will rust faster than 440C. If you want to have a patina on your blade then 5160 is the way to go...remember patina is light rust:eek: I will take 440C over 5160 every time...remember this is JMHO.
 
If you want a 110 with a carbon steel blade, I believe 5160 is your only option. C&C (a supporting dealer, so I can mention them by name) keeps some 110 SFO's with 5160 blades in stock. (And a couple other 100 series knives as well.)
I am not aware of anyone else that stocks the 110 with a carbon steel blade.

I don't know of anyone that has new 110's with a 440C blade.

You might want to consider retiring your 3 dot.
I don't know if the 3 dot is the same as the 2 dots, but I was told by Buck that due to dimensional changes over the years, if I send in my 2 dot for warranty work, all they can do is send me a new knife, since they don't have parts for the 2 dots anymore.

I have no knife related experience with 5160 (yet), so I cannot comment on it, other than to say: "From everything I've read about 5160 here on the forums, it seems to be solid choice; very tough, takes and holds an edge, and is not likely to chip. However, it will rust, or take on a patina, if you'll let it."
(Also, Himalayan Imports uses 5160 for all their Kukri.)
 
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5160 is tough and resists chipping well. It makes great sense for choppers and survival/bushcraft type knives that will be battoned through wood.

I'm a big fan of 1095. It has a charm and will hold an edge better than 1075 or 5160. I like it for wood working knives as I find it a nice balance between toughness and edge hold. I find Buck's 420HC pretty close to 1095 and it's my favorite for EDC use, like my 110s.

440C is a course grained high carbide steel with a toothy edge that sort of "saws" through fibrous materials well. I really like it for a hunting knife and still carry a 2 dot 110 when hunting.

IMO, putting 5160 in a folding knife doesn't make much sense to me, just as putting a less tough steel like 440C (or D2) into a survival/bushcraft type knife. I can't imagine using a folder like a 110 in a way that would get benefit from the toughness of 5160. Would much rather have 420HC in a folder.

I would love it if Buck came out with a series of 110s and 112s in 1095. IMO, that would be the non-stainless for a 110.
 
I wish they offered a 1095 blade option too. Love GEC's tempering of 1095.
Bob
 
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I wouldnt have it, a large part of my attraction to Bucks has always been the Stainless Steel. I will never need a knife that is prone to rust.
 
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I have a 112 in 5160 I use at work.
I sharpen it a lot more than my 420hc knives I use the same way.
I don't think 5160 makes much sense as a blade steel in a folding edc.

Actually I don't carry said 112 much as it needs to be sharpened again.
I work outside in wind, rain and snow and really haven't had much of an issue with rust.
 
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I like carbon steels,I need to get a Buck 110 in carbon ,if nothing more than to have it in the collection.Buck made 440 c 110 folding hunters and lots of people couldn't sharpen them ,it wasn't because of the steel as much as it was the thick blades.Ive come to love the older 2dots.440c was a great choice for Buck to use back then,a little thinner blade meant less strength ,which is why I guess the blades were so heavy duty,I've done a lot of heavy chores with a 2dot 110 that I don't think I'd attempt with a newer model from today.
 
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I have a 440c 119, and a 5160 119.
Buck's 5160 heat treat is the best I've come across to date.
It sharpens easier to about the same as the 440 c, but I use diamond and ceramics. Bucks 5160 retains its edge very well. I can't say which stays sharp longer as I strop my knives each use and keep em hair pushing sharp.

As to rust 5160 does not rust as easily as many other carbon steels. Nor does it patina as easily.

Hope that helps.
 
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afishhunter said:
If you want a 110 with a carbon steel blade, I believe 5160 is your only option. C&C (a supporting dealer, so I can mention them by name) keeps some 110 SFO's with 5160 blades in stock. (And a couple other 100 series knives as well.)
I am not aware of anyone else that stocks the 110 with a carbon steel blade.

I don't know of anyone that has new 110's with a 440C blade.

You might want to consider retiring your 3 dot.
I don't know if the 3 dot is the same as the 2 dots, but I was told by Buck that due to dimensional changes over the years, if I send in my 2 dot for warranty work, all they can do is send me a new knife, since they don't have parts for the 2 dots anymore.

I have no knife related experience with 5160 (yet), so I cannot comment on it, other than to say: "From everything I've read about 5160 here on the forums, it seems to be solid choice; very tough, takes and holds an edge, and is not likely to chip. However, it will rust, or take on a patina, if you'll let it."
(Also, Himalayan Imports uses 5160 for all their Kukri.)
Click to expand...

Buck does them now and again with 440C.
15789261927497971943123541085756.jpg 15789262190384498966092458118061.jpg
 
Makael said:
Buck does them now and again with 440C.
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Nice. :)
I'd send in my 2 dot for a blade transplant (and a couple few other things) if I could get a replacement 440C blade, since that was the standard/default blade steel when my 2 dot was made in 1971.
The tang stamp(s) might not be the same, but it would be keeping it as close to original as possible … all the same materials, at any rate, since Buck went back to using solid Ebony again.
(Though truth to tell, I would not mind the Dynawood(spelling?) grips since they can't/won't/don't/are less likely to chip, like the solid ebony did on mine.)

(((sigh))) I guess I need to save up for that 110 with "oak" covers and 5160 blade that I want.
(True. I don't "need" it. I do have a few other 110's with upgraded steel (CPM 154 from S&K) that I can use, after all. However, I do greatly desire a 110 … and a 301 (or better yet a 307) … with carbon steel blade(s).)
 
afishhunter said:
Nice. :)
I'd send in my 2 dot for a blade transplant (and a couple few other things) if I could get a replacement 440C blade, since that was the standard/default blade steel when my 2 dot was made in 1971.
The tang stamp(s) might not be the same, but it would be keeping it as close to original as possible … all the same materials, at any rate, since Buck went back to using solid Ebony again.
(Though truth to tell, I would not mind the Dynawood(spelling?) grips since they can't/won't/don't/are less likely to chip, like the solid ebony did on mine.)

(((sigh))) I guess I need to save up for that 110 with "oak" covers and 5160 blade that I want.
(True. I don't "need" it. I do have a few other 110's with upgraded steel (CPM 154 from S&K) that I can use, after all. However, I do greatly desire a 110 … and a 301 (or better yet a 307) … with carbon steel blade(s).)
Click to expand...
e71be549-27ec-512f-a81a-af836eef96ab__16412.1546392892.jpg
 
Makael Makael
(quote) "I've run out of room. " (end quote)

You can always do what those who collect antique/vintage fishing lures, reels, rods, etc. do when they run out of room: Build an extension on the house, or get a second (or third) home to house and display the collection. :)


That seems to be the most popular "answer" over on the Stripers Online forum. (the add-on/extension mainly by those who only collect lures. They've usually already finished the basement (if the home is equipped with one) and the attic (if the home is equipped with one), and have moved the car(s) out of the garage (if they have one) before building the extension or buying the second (or third) home to have a place to keep and display their collection.

(I suppose renting a 2,000 SF or larger warehouse, and building/buying some shelving or display cases to keep and display the collection is also an option.)

BTW: Some of them fellas consider 100,000 lures to be a "small" collection.​
 
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afishhunter said:
Makael Makael
(quote) "I've run out of room. " (end quote)

You can always do what those who collect antique/vintage fishing lures, reels, rods, etc. do when they run out of room: Build an extension on the house, or get a second (or third) home to house and display the collection. :)


That seems to be the most popular "answer" over on the Stripers Online forum. (the add-on/extension mainly by those who only collect lures. They've usually already finished the basement (if the home is equipped with one) and the attic (if the home is equipped with one), and have moved the car(s) out of the garage (if they have one) before building the extension or buying the second (or third) home to have a place to keep and display their collection.

(I suppose renting a 2,000 SF or larger warehouse, and building/buying some shelving or display cases to keep and display the collection is also an option.)

BTW: Some of them fellas consider 100,000 lures to be a "small" collection.​
Click to expand...
30 x 40 just completed. LOL
20191119_120957-jpg.1238113
 
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