5160 chopper/camp knife (WIP)

C

chad2

Joined
Sep 2, 2011
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profiling

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1/4" thick
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It is more the size of a fighter knife. But i made it so i can use it to baton not really chop. I wanted something that would have more all around qualities not just a big chopping knife but something i could use to chop, baton, prep food, ect.

How do you guys think i did?
 
Jakeboy said:
I think it looks great!

How are you going to finish the grip?
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I dont really know yet i am on the wall with either rounding the bottom corners and making it for hammering or giving it a chisel grind for prying. I think hammering would benefit me more but who knows
 
chad2 said:
I dont really know yet i am on the wall with either rounding the bottom corners and making it for hammering or giving it a chisel grind for prying. I think hammering would benefit me more but who knows
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I can't think of a use for a pry end for camping, but having the ability to hammer the knife might be better. I'd always be afraid of jamming my hand down on the chisel end if I forgot it was there. You could always put a piggyback sleeve for a small pry bar on the sheath.

Orange scales are the bomb. On my camp knives, I tie a loop of red or orange para cord through the lanyard holes to improve "findability".
 
Jakeboy said:
I can't think of a use for a pry end for camping, but having the ability to hammer the knife might be better. I'd always be afraid of jamming my hand down on the chisel end if I forgot it was there. You could always put a piggyback sleeve for a small pry bar on the sheath.

Orange scales are the bomb. On my camp knives, I tie a loop of red or orange para cord through the lanyard holes to improve "findability".
Click to expand...

Agree, it will be a hammer then.
 
Cool! We need pics when you finish that bad boy. The shape of the blade is perfect for a big all around user.

Good luck!
 
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drilled holes for weight reduction it was very unbalanced now it is almost perfect

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kind of a distal tapper

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still dont know if i am going to use screws or just jb weld the handles

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chad2 said:
I dont really know yet i am on the wall with either rounding the bottom corners and making it for hammering or giving it a chisel grind for prying. I think hammering would benefit me more but who knows
Click to expand...

If you want to be able to dig and pry with it, leave the "tip" end square when you first profile it and grind a steep chisel on it. Then grind your side bevel(s) normally. I wouldn't worry too much about grinding a distal taper into it. This will give you a lot of leverage for using the chisel tip, while leaving the butt of the handle comfortable and safe, and useful for thumping on things.

chad2 said:
still dont know if i am going to use screws or just jb weld the handles
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I nearly always recommend two methods of securing a handle - mechanical (screws or peened pins) and chemical (epoxy or other adhesive). If I could only use one, I would choose mechanical only, instead of chemical only, every time. JB weld is among the best stuff available for joining metal-to-metal, but among the weakest for disparate materials like metal-to-G10 or wood. A slow-curing clear epoxy would probably serve you better.
 
So I have completed the new heat treat on it and did some testing on the blade lastnight luckly for you guys I filmed it. You will be able to see my blade fail. When I made this blade I want to do a very thin tip to see what I could get away with, I figured it would fail but you still need to test it right. So the video will be up soon.
 
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=etHzQ2-4UpM&feature=share&list=UURKqSYGNd5-HPCj_e9cmNGw

the heat treat is

normalize X 3 = 1550 degress, 5 mins, air cool, into freezer for 24 hours after all three
thermal cycle X 3 = 1350 degrees, 5mins, air cool to below 900 degrees or untill no more red and about another min, into freezer for 24 hours after all three.
anneal X 3 = 1600 degrees, 20 mins, furnace cool over night.

next time i am going to be doing all of this before i profile the blade. i developed a bend samuria style because in the normalizing and thermalcycling the edge would cool off a lot faster then the spin.

quench X 3 = 1545 degrees, 5 mins, then into canola oil, then into freezer for 24 hours after each quench, three day procces.
temper X 1 = 390 degrees, 2 hours, water quench to help with RA, into freezer for 24 hours.
temper X 2 = 400 degrees, 2 hours, cool in kiln with partially open door to help with grain size, when room temp into freezer for 24 hours after each cycle, two day procces.

i put a quick edge on it and really wanted to test it, but the video is the second test, sorry i was really antsy :D

this is deffinantly the best results i have got from 5160 i can not wait to take this thing out after putting a handle on it.

all together it is a 11 day heat treat procces but totally worth it. the only time i have had 5160 cut this good was with a 350 degree temper, this is a 400 degree temper, it flexes well has very good strength besides the kitchen knife thin tip i put on it :), but now it is tough.
 
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after third quench :D

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after third temper and after using a torch on the handle to get a little more toughness out of the hammer portion

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not completely finished but pretty much there i have been using and testing it a lot that is why the blade is a little beat up

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:D:D:Dcheck out the test video while you are at it :eek::eek::eek:
 
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