5160/L6 Billet Blade Progress Pics

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Oct 28, 1999
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Here is the resulting blade that I have going from the earlier posts about the 5160/L6 billet and forging dies on the Claiborne press. Layer count is 114.

I reprofiled the tip a bit under the hammer then incised the edge with an angle grinder....then hammered it back flat.

The blade was 3x annealed, 3x quenched from 1525F in 140F ToughQuench, and 3x tempered at 370F for 2 hr cycles each. The fine grain size was evident during the finish grind.

She's around 8.5" with a 5/16" spine.....and sharpened like a razor.

It made me really work for the etch though.....my guess is that the contrast is not as high because of the chromium content in the 5160 in relation to the nickel in the L6.....I increased the etch time ....1500 grit in between, then gunblued the blade and then back to 1500grit.

My tests (before the etch) show it to be a real mean cutter...convexed edge and sharpened clip made it dangerous to work around.

It will get a grooved guard of the same Damascus, maybe a wrought iron ferrule, and a Gaboon Ebony grip.

Hindsight.....I think I'll use 5160 in a mix only as a handle for the billet and rely on 1080, 1065, 1095, or 01 to mix with L6 or 15n20 for contrast.....unless someone wants a super tough Damascus "user"....which this blade seems to be.

Here are the pics:

5160blade2.jpg


5160blade.jpg
 
Great looking blade Greg!

The L6 and 5160 should make for a great blade, but like you said, hard to get a lot of contrast. You pulled it off though, that's a winner :) I really like the profile as well.

Just curious, why are you welding a tool/spring steel on as a handle? I just buy mild steel bar-stock or round-stock and weld it on the end of the billet for a handle. I always cut a little of the very ends off anyway (well, a lot if I screw up on the measuring when cutting/restacking! ;) ).

Let's see that sucker finished up! :D :D :D

-Nick-
 
NickWheeler said:
Great looking blade Greg!

Just curious, why are you welding a tool/spring steel on as a handle? I just buy mild steel bar-stock or round-stock and weld it on the end of the billet for a handle. I always cut a little of the very ends off anyway (well, a lot if I screw up on the measuring when cutting/restacking! ;) ).

-Nick-


Thanks Nick......

I didnt weld on the handle for this particular billet....I used the 5160 bar as a handle since it ran right thru the middle of the stack. I usually use some steel barstock or rebar for handles. Only when I have one of the blade steels in the mix....with I use it as a handle.
 
i dont think you should change a thing
the etch looks real nice i like the fact its not in your face bold
 
Greg, that really came out great. I like the subtle contrast. I hope I can check this out in person at the end of the month :).
 
blade turned out nice, i like the pattern,how much time do you think you can
shave off the next one useing the press?? what is printed under your name
on your stamp??i couldnt make it out bb
 
killerknives said:
blade turned out nice, i like the pattern,how much time do you think you can
shave off the next one useing the press?? what is printed under your name
on your stamp??i couldnt make it out bb

I think the bevel forging dies and using the press to form the tang saves me about 45 min of hot work and alot of arm stess. You still need to hammer it though.

The press is superb for making the billet though...I cannot imagine doing large billets again by hand.
Robert is correct it says "COVINGTON Forged"

Matt....it should be here for you to play with at the hammer-in...I have the guard in place...making a ferrule this week ....handle this wknd.

I have to say for some reason the point on this one is deadly! It likes to "pass thru" anything it come in contact with with its weight alone. It gets a big ball of tape on it when working in the shop.
 
The thing I want to see is how you put on the finger guard. It would be awsome if you take pictures during the process, but an explanation is good enough.

Puting on fingerguards and handles is my biggest problem.

(Thanks)
 
And you're gonna' finish it with same Damascus guard,wrought iron ferrule and Gabon Ebony grip.I missed out on one of your knives shortly after joining and would sure like to see this one when it's done.Thanks for posting pics.
 
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