5160 rust

B

Brownwm

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Jan 1, 2016
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I bought a 112 in 5160 in the last couple of months. I've used it several times at work (I work in a warehouse). When I'm done using a knife I'll lightly wipe it with a "tough cloth" and put it away in a drawer with silica packets.
I took it out today after its been put away for a couple weeks and I noticed what looks like streaks of rust in the fine vertical groves on the blade. Not sure how that's possible but wondering how to fix it.
Also, not sure if I should ever carry it again if it's that prone to rust. I've never had this issue before. The picture is the best I could get but doesn't show the extent of the issue.
Advice?
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5160 will rust. Here is some info.

5160 Steel - This is plain carbon steel (1060) that has been mixed with a little bit of chromium. There is not enough chromium to make it a stainless steel, but the chromium has been added to strengthen the material. This type of steel is known for its outstanding toughness. This type of steel typically has .56-.64% carbon

I would polish off the rust and keep a lght coat of non toxic oil.
 
Mirror polishing the blade can help. Moisture may be collecting in the as-ground marks. Some wet-dry sandpaper in progression of grits, some oil and elbow grease.

On my 1095 blade, I generally force a patina with warm cider vinegar. The patina helps reduce rusting and metalic tastes in food.

Some storage places create more rust than others. You might ask the question over in the traditional forum, where there a bunch of collectors with 1095 blades.
 
flitz. works well to remove rust without really changing the grind line patterns.

tuf cloth is silicone based. i gave up on it here where i am. wiped a lot yet rust always happened. mostly my fault as i didnt clean the knife well before wiping and so it just trapped my corrosive finger residue and sweat under the silicone coating. so i ended up switched to wax. not perfect but helps on finger touching rust areas. course cleaning and removing all oils and residues before waxing makes a big difference.

rust happens on steels. i just learned to remove it and keep using. the wax has made a big difference in my time fixing it though. not the right product for food use, but if your cutting food with carbon steels its gonna stain somewhat.
 
5160 is just plain carbon steel and it is a rust magnet if you do not oil it. I would clean it real good and apply a light coat of Vaseline Jelly to the blade and pivot. Vaseline will keep it from rusting and is food safe. However, there are products that will give great protection that are not food safe. I use Vaseline on knives that might come into contact with food as ingesting some of those others is not a good idea. I live near the sea and it is tropical, here. Since I have started using Vaseline on my carbon blades I have had no more issues. Just apply and wipe off the excess. It will not take much.
 
Hard to tell from the photo but that looks more like brass than rust. What did you cut with it? I'd keep using it and wipe it down with a little oil from time to time. What made you pick the 5160 over a standard 112 with 420HC?
 
5160 is tough stuff -- it's used for lawnmower blades among other things. I wouldn't worry about a little rust; just rub it off if it bothers you. It will develop a patina that will help prevent some corrosion. Any acidic material like fruit or meat will react with the carbon in the blade. I just ordered a 112 in S30Vm, but might have gone with 5160 if they had it on the Custom Shop website. Where did you get yours?
 
Maybe a Scotch-Brite pad will remove that rust. I forced a patina on my 110 for fun. It wasn't really all that easy, I think it's more resistant than 1095. Anyway, I like the look of the patina and it seems to protect it.
 
I would give the blade a bath in vinager for a few minutes and then rinse. A good patina will keep rust away and a wipe with mineral oil now and then.
 
Badhammer said:
Hard to tell from the photo but that looks more like brass than rust. What did you cut with it? I'd keep using it and wipe it down with a little oil from time to time. What made you pick the 5160 over a standard 112 with 420HC?
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I cut mostly cardboard, plastic banding, shrink wrap, etc. I picked 5160 because I already had a 112 in 420hc and S30V. I heard it was tough, figured it would be good in the environment I work in.

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Alberta Ed said:
5160 is tough stuff -- it's used for lawnmower blades among other things. I wouldn't worry about a little rust; just rub it off if it bothers you. It will develop a patina that will help prevent some corrosion. Any acidic material like fruit or meat will react with the carbon in the blade. I just ordered a 112 in S30Vm, but might have gone with 5160 if they had it on the Custom Shop website. Where did you get yours?
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Mine came from Copper & Clad.

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DocT said:
5160 is just plain carbon steel and it is a rust magnet if you do not oil it. I would clean it real good and apply a light coat of Vaseline Jelly to the blade and pivot. Vaseline will keep it from rusting and is food safe. However, there are products that will give great protection that are not food safe. I use Vaseline on knives that might come into contact with food as ingesting some of those others is not a good idea. I live near the sea and it is tropical, here. Since I have started using Vaseline on my carbon blades I have had no more issues. Just apply and wipe off the excess. It will not take much.
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I like that idea DocT, I work 6 blocks from the Port of Seattle so I am in close proximity to salt water. I give it a go after the polishing many others have suggested I do.

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I got my 5160 bladed 110 today, no rust, but man is this knife filthy. Deposits of the infamous black buffing compound are all over it, pivot and lock areas are packed with it and the brass bolsters and liners have brown spots of tarnish all over them. Sent pics to C&C and Buck both. I can probably clean it all out and off myself, but there's no excuse for a new knife leaving the factory like this. I looks like whoever did the final buffing, didn't even bother to wipe it off before boxing it.
 
There are some good ideas and advice in this thread. I also use paste wax on such knives. I found down here in the humidity the tuff cloth or whatever it is called won't prevent rust if used over a salt or acid. That has to be washed off the blade before treating with whatever. A small part of a finger print or drop of sweat is enough if not washed off. When I do that and seal the blade off with wax I have no problems whatsoever. I don't believe in the "patina" as a way of treating to prevent rust. It is rust, and will not prevent real red rust in my experience. Mirroring will help ease the maintenance load but even that isn't enough to replace proper care.

Joe
 
If you wanted to treat your blade and not have to worry about it you could force patina the blade. It would change the shiney steel to a dark almost black look but it wouldn't rust again. I forced a patina on my 5160, 119 and it looks good and doesn't rust and I live close to the coast in California.
 
mbjannusch said:
If you wanted to treat your blade and not have to worry about it you could force patina the blade. It would change the shiney steel to a dark almost black look but it wouldn't rust again. I forced a patina on my 5160, 119 and it looks good and doesn't rust and I live close to the coast in California.
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I would do this or nothing at all and let it rust. I have many older knives with carbon steel blades that get a naturally rust patina with use that's one of the drawbacks to carbon steel. The rust doesn't bother me but obviously it does most folks do to the widespread use stainless steels in knives over carbon steels when carbon steel will outperform stainless in cutting. im not saying I hate stainless knives I have lots of them also.
 
Kansaswoodguy said:
I would do this or nothing at all and let it rust. I have many older knives with carbon steel blades that get a naturally rust patina with use that's one of the drawbacks to carbon steel. The rust doesn't bother me but obviously it does most folks do to the widespread use stainless steels in knives over carbon steels when carbon steel will outperform stainless in cutting. im not saying I hate stainless knives I have lots of them also.
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I would rather force patina the blade, cause rust will damage the steel, and the patina will protect the steel as well as look cool.
 
The wax is a good idea, too. In fact, Vaseline has paraffin in it along with the mineral oil. I used to use wax, paste wax and other wax, sometimes a soft candle, to coat my rifle before going hunting to protect the beautiful finish. However, many of these concoctions are not food safe.
 
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