5160 vs the 10-- Series

R

Right II Defend

Joined
Jan 6, 2014
Messages
6
Hello all,

Over the past few weeks I have been extensively researching the art of knife making. Let me tell you, I never expected that there would be so many details to consider when designing a knife, choosing steel, filing and grinding the blade, heat treating, et cetera...

I am pretty sure that I now have a rudimentary understanding of what I am venturing into. I think I've learned enough to start working on my own blade. However, I do have one question to ask you guys: how does 5160 steel compare to the 10-- series steels (1095 in particular)? I've read that these are both pretty good steels, but I have yet to come across a post that directly compares the two.

So tell me, what are your thoughts?

Ryan
 
5160 is hypo-eutectoid with 1% chromium
1095 is hyper-eutectoid with no major alloying

Both make good knives. 5160 makes a tough knife...1095 makes a harder edged blade. Depending on the HT and desired use of the knife, either one has advantages and disadvantages.

If you want a simplistic generality, 1095 is a better knife steel.
 
Jastab, why do you suggest 52100?

Stacy, when you say harder edged blade, do you mean you can get a thinner angle on your bevel? By the way, the newbie how to and all the info you gathered in the sticky has been a HUGE help.

Thanks,

Ryan
 
Yes, 1095 will take a thinner edge. It is popular for slicing knives. 5160 is tougher and is popular for chopping knives.

52100 is basically 1095 with 1.5% chromium. It makes an excellent knife, but I would not consider it a good beginner steel unless it is being send out for HT.


The steel chosen will not normally be an issue, as most all knife steels make a good sharp knife. The HT for the steel chosen is what is important. If you are sending it out for HT, then you can spend hours deciding this or that steel choice. If you are doing it at home with simple equipment, 1084/1080/1075 is what you want to chose. These steels do not need hold time at close tolerances to harden.
 
Okay, thanks for the good info. I'm still not sure if I want to send it out for HT or if I want to do it myself. It'd probably be a better idea to send it out to the pros so I don't mess anything up, but I'm also interested in the whole HT process and how it works.
 
If you get a good programmable oven, optimized heat treatment of 5160 and 1095 become much easier. A lot of what you do depends on your equipment. It is difficult for a novice to maintain the blade temperature to +/- 50 F in a forge. Some would say +/- 100 F. Not sure on the variance in an oven, but it most certainly less than +/- 50 F.
 
Right II Defend said:
Jastab, why do you suggest 52100?
Click to expand...


"Formerly a ball-bearing steel, and as such previously only used by forgers, it's available in bar stock now. It is similar to 5160 (though it has around 1% carbon vs. 5160 ~.60%), but holds an edge better. It is less tough than 5160. It is used often for hunting knives and other knives where the user is willing to trade off a little of 5160's toughness for better wear resistance. However, with the continued improvement of 52100 heat treat, this steel is starting to show up in larger knives and showing excellent toughness. A modified 52100 under the SR-101 name is being used by Jerry Busse in his Swamp Rat knives."

Stolen from blade steel app on my phone. 52100 is some really tough stuff and really fine grained for not being a cpm steel.
 
I'll basically repeat what Stacy said, it really depends a great deal on your HT capabilities. If you're going to do it in the backyard BBQ and quench in a bucket of canola oil, stick with 1075/1080/1084. They make very good knives.

If you're working by stock removal and sending it out to a pro shop like Peters', you can use any steel you want. (assuming you know what it is, so they'll know how to HT it properly - not old bedsprings or car parts ;) )

52100 is nice stuff :thumbup:
 
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