52100/80crv2

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Sep 29, 2015
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I've worked with both steels before (though never made a sword from 52100, not a good idea IMO). I always wanted to see if I could get I higher edge hardness without making a blade too prone to braking and was wondering how you think a San Mai blade of 80crv2 with a 52100 core would work out. In my mind this would make a very durable blade with a very strong edge. Do you think this idea would be worth the effort? do you think I would just get the same results as I would just using 80crv2 alone? What blade style (excluding Katanas) do you think would work best for this kind of set up?

I also have a lot of 1080, do you think this would be a better idea instead of 80crv2 for a outter layer?

Thanks for the help,
Kevin
 
Have you thought about reversing your order? Make the core from the 80CRv2, and use the 52100 as the outer shell.
 
meaning the 80crv2 is the edge? Or do you mean wrap the 80crv2 in 52100, still keeping the 52100 as the edge? I'm not sure I understand the structure your describing.
 
meaning the 80crv2 is the edge? Or do you mean wrap the 80crv2 in 52100, still keeping the 52100 as the edge? I'm not sure I understand the structure your describing.
Yes, I meant make the 80CRv2 the cutting edge. It's a great high impact steel, according to the New Jersey Steel Baron ( a steel supply house) the 80CRv2 is an improved version of 5160,(which is also a great sword steel). I've used the 80CRv2 and and really like it.
 
I do have pleanty of both steels, I guess it wouldn't hurt to try both options. Two similar swords one with a 80crv2 core and 52100 on the out side, and on with 52100 as the core and 80crv2 on the outside.
 
Have you forge welded before? It's going to be tricky. Make sure you get the steels clean, get them good and hot, and use plenty of borax. Good Luck!
 
I have forge welded before, I have not forge welded 80crv2 to anything yet but I'm sure it won't be diffrent from most other steels.
 
It's probably going to take me a while, I like to do a lot of planning before hand. I'll be sure to make a post once their all done though.

Thanks for helping
 
I suggest you just use the 80 crv2 for the sword entirely. Save the other for a smaller blade. You won't be sorry. I have made machetes from the 80CrV2, and it is great for shock and edge retention. It is an ideal steel for a sword (unless you are doing dif heat treatment like Japanese blades have, then it is not good).
If you really want to pattern weld, use W2 and 15n20, or if you can marquench, use O1 and L6.
 
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