52100 Steel Rusting

[Razor]

I am no seal and don't live close to salt water but on my spyderco's with 52100 steel and other carbon steel I just use Tuff Glide on them and I have had no problems. On my 52100 military it has a few rust spots on the blade. So what, it shows it is a user. I would think most people are around some kind of oil during the day. I like the super steels and am glad they came out, but boy the carbon steels are easy to sharpen and will get sharp as hell. Just my 2 cents. Lol

 

[SVTFreak]

Once a patina is formed, keeping it oiled is less important. I just oil my carbons when I put them up for awhile. When carrying one for anytime from a couple days to a week, I don’t oil. Even after using on food and rinsing in water.

 

[Riz!]

Agreed. Generally a quick rinse in fresh water right after use, seems to be enough

If you really need to oil them, standard mineral oil works very well.


I don't have a carbon steel Spydie, but a bunch of GEC taditionals and fixed blades. When I first get them, I soak them in vinegar to start a good patina, then use steel wool to reduce it, then I use the blades for cutting raw meats and fruits. The result is a unique patina that shows character and I have not seen any rust yet. The initial cutting of acidic foods usually takes about a month to produce the full effect.

 

[Jack of All Blades]

i wipe my 52100 pm2 down with a little frog lube every couple days to keep it clean, been carrying it for about 2 months and haven't had any rust spots at all. i like it because if i carry it for about 3 days without cleaning it turns a deep blueish tint that you can only see in the sunlight.

 

[uxo2]

When mine gets dirty, I rinse it in water and wipe it dry.

Sometimes a few times a day.

No rust... Most likely because it has formed patina.

 

[The Mastiff]

Try paste wax. Clean it off of anything corrosive , dry, then wax it. It takes me about 2 minutes and works better than oils for me. I even can store a non stainless knife in the leather sheath which is usually something to be avoided. If the blade is really scratched up consider two coats. I never patina a knife and remove it when it builds naturally and I really like the way the wax looks. The first time you wax the blade you will be surprised by the gunk that was on the blade you couldn't see. I prefer Rennisance wax but car wax works fine.

Next choice would be a clear liquid silicone as sold by A G Russell. It works better than regular light oils too.

Joe

 

[blanex1]

patina is needed,i live right near the sea/fog/cold weather and damp as well,and find once a patina is added,you will have little to no rusting.

 

[The Mastiff]

In my opinion a patina is never needed. Some people like the looks of it. I don't. Some think it prevents rust. I don't think it does. If used by the ocean the knife will rust if it wants to whether patined or not. Mine dont. My method is a better for me but I'm not going to say it is for everybody. I like keeping my knives shiny. When sufficiently scratched up I will re satin them by hand but never do I just let it oxidize.

I sometimes just want to put this info up because people new to the hobby hear that patinas are needed and they think that is how it's done. I've had knives for almost 50 years and this whole patina thing is fairly new. It's the opposite of the way I was brought up and told to take care of my tools. The job wasn't over until the tool was cleaned, sharpened, oiled and put in it's place. I still do things that way.

 

[jpm2]

I don't keep my blades shiny, but do lighten them up sometime with 1 micron diamond on denim.
If I can feel something with my fingernail that doesn't rinse off, I take care of it with steel wool.

 

[oneriver]

i wipe my 52100 pm2 down with a little frog lube every couple days to keep it clean, been carrying it for about 2 months and haven't had any rust spots at all. i like it because if i carry it for about 3 days without cleaning it turns a deep blueish tint that you can only see in the sunlight.

Frog Lube is great quick and easy and important for me is non toxic and bio degradable.

 

[McFeeli]

This is why I love CruWear. It acts like a carbon steel in most aspects, but it still has pretty great stain resistance. I don’t even oil the blade, and I’ve yet to have any permanent staining. I’d choose it over 52100 on pretty much every folder out there, even though I’ve been pleased with 52100 on the few fixed blades I own that feature it. Hell, I’d take CruWear on everything but a dive knife if I had my way, haha.

 

[DocT]

Try paste wax. Clean it off of anything corrosive , dry, then wax it. It takes me about 2 minutes and works better than oils for me. I even can store a non stainless knife in the leather sheath which is usually something to be avoided. If the blade is really scratched up consider two coats. I never patina a knife and remove it when it builds naturally and I really like the way the wax looks. The first time you wax the blade you will be surprised by the gunk that was on the blade you couldn't see. I prefer Rennisance wax but car wax works fine.

Next choice would be a clear liquid silicone as sold by A G Russell. It works better than regular light oils too.

Joe

Yep, this is how we used to keep rust off of our blued rifles when hunting. It really stays on well and protects against moisture.

 

[bikerector]

patina is needed,i live right near the sea/fog/cold weather and damp as well,and find once a patina is added,you will have little to no rusting.

This is usually my preferred method of handling carbon steels. I've been pretty impressed with how little maintenance is needed on some acid-washed carbon steel or tool steel knives. But, you certainly loose the polished look that make some knives look really nice, usually the traditional knives are polished nice to get rid of machining marks.

 

[ferider]

This is why I love CruWear. It acts like a carbon steel in most aspects, but it still has pretty great stain resistance. I don’t even oil the blade, and I’ve yet to have any permanent staining.

Same here. Note however that I've had several CruWear knives rust in the Pivot area (while the rest of the blade is still clean), so recommend to keep the Pivot oiled. I guess when you wash a knife, capillary force pulls water into that area ....

 

[McFeeli]

Same here. Note however that I've had several CruWear knives rust in the Pivot area (while the rest of the blade is still clean), so recommend to keep the Pivot oiled. I guess when you wash a knife, capillary force pulls water into that area ....

The pivot is the area I do tend to worry about most with folders using carbon steels. It’s easy to tell what’s going on when you’re looking at the blade, but everything hidden away can be a bit of a mystery.

I do try to be a bit more cautious when I clean my carbon steel folders, using wet towels to clean the blade when they’re upside down, and using only compressed air for the interior. That way I can try to minimize the water displacement. Thanks for the heads up, though. I’ll have to keep an eye out for that.

 

[JJ_Colt45]

In my opinion a patina is never needed. Some people like the looks of it. I don't. Some think it prevents rust. I don't think it does. If used by the ocean the knife will rust if it wants to whether patined or not. Mine dont. My method is a better for me but I'm not going to say it is for everybody. I like keeping my knives shiny. When sufficiently scratched up I will re satin them by hand but never do I just let it oxidize.

I sometimes just want to put this info up because people new to the hobby hear that patinas are needed and they think that is how it's done. I've had knives for almost 50 years and this whole patina thing is fairly new. It's the opposite of the way I was brought up and told to take care of my tools. The job wasn't over until the tool was cleaned, sharpened, oiled and put in it's place. I still do things that way.

I think now alot of people who didn't grow up with mostly high carbon blades like to force a patina ... and they can get some nice patterns and such ...

But I am more of the use it and if patina forms naturally over time no worries ... but I have some knives older than me that are good old 1095 or 52100 or some other high carbon steel ... and they may look a bit dull but just cleaning them and drying them good ... and maybe on a few occasions wiped with mineral oil ... but never purposely forced patina.